Matt S

Is it the bevelling itself that is taking your time, or burnishing to a rounded edge? There are plenty of powered burnishing solutions available, including those which fit into a pillar drill, or a Dremel type tool.

Sam Browne stud? Magnet?

Perhaps contrast could be increased with the use of antique dye?

Yup been using that stuff for a few years, since I read Bob Smalser's article on it. HOWEVER: The method demonstrated is extremely dangerous. If you are tempted to try this, place the can of ingredients inside a pot of water and heat the outer container. This is called a 'double boiler' and makes the whole setup a whole load safer, by limiting the temperature of the ingredients to 100 degrees C (212F).

Left/right twist is not of huge importance in my experience, except when tapering the ends of the thread (unlaying, scraping then relaying. Even then it doesn't make much difference. As for wax, I prefer to use the 'traditional' (whatever that means) beeswax/rosin mixture variously known as cobblers wax, hand wax or code/coad. It makes things just sticky enough to stay together easier. I mix it 50/50 but ideally I'd increase the amount of rosin for use in the summer and reduce it in winter.

Evening all, I'm interested in learning more about strikers (metal salts which react with tannins in leather to effect a colour change), especially with regards to veg tanned leather. I've not come up with many concrete references even in the archives of the leather chemists. We all know about the effects of iron -- the blue-grey-black shades which can be made using vinegroon (ferrous acetate) or green copperas (ferrous sulphate). I've also read of salts of tartar (potassium chloride) which can cause a brown colour, and mentions of tin salts which can result in a red. What other options are there? Many thanks, Matt

You can get dummies like they have on display in the shops from a 'certain famous online auction house'.