Matt S

Being alcohol-based you need to oil your leather after Fiebings dries; the alcohol destroys much of the grease added by the tanner, which stops cracking.

I have a theory that a large part of the difference is due to Al Stohlman and Tandy/Craftool with the rise of the hobby maker. Where a stitch needs to be protected from rub in English, Australian or Western saddlery, a concealed stitch is used (cut with a knife), or a channel gouged with a race (racer). These tools are simple; can be made by any competent smith, edges can easily be sharpened, and have multiple uses. Not as easy to use without training as a Tandy groover. These latter tools are the opposite; most any idiot can pick one up and use it (even me), but a time-served master saddler would no doubt prefer a proper tool, even if it did take them a while to learn how to use when apprentice. To sink a stitch line in a groove can neaten its appearance somewhat by pulling it into a straight line, which is useful to those not hugely experienced in hand stitching. But it slows things, and I believe to be of limited use to someone who has learned by long experience and good tutelage to stitch neatly and well, especially with a pricking iron.

Dbury, 'enough for a phone case' is not the sort of quantity in which tanners or curriers deal. At the minimum you will be buying a single shoulder. If you want British cowhide, start phoning suppliers and ask for it. If you want 'the best', that is a subjective opinion. I used to know a beltmaker who swore by Sedgewicks bridle. Others, the same application, prefer Bakers' bridle for the family-owned bark-tan appeal. If you really want Bakers, buy some and have someone split it. Will you be wet-moulding? Tooling or stamping? What else might you make with the same leather?

Have yo stropped your edger? All cutting tools need maintenance.

How do you think halters were made for the several millenia between the domestication of the horse and the invention of the sewing machine? :-p

Yep it was one of my first projects. Al Stohlman describes it quite well in his first making book and there is an alternative method by Rob Edwards.

Tandy UK keeps it I think. But I would phone proper UK suppliers; Le Prevo, Bachelors, Metropokitan etc.

The smallest harness needles commonly available are John James no4. They are commonly available through reputable dealers like Abbey and Le Prevo. (Tandy are not, in my humble opinion, reputable.) No2 needles are a bit trickier but will work with 18/3 linen thread if you haven't got the hang of tapreing or rolling threads. A thickness of 6mm is no issue.

Water was too hot.

This. Pliers have a place but in humble opinion if you're using them a lot, something is wrong.

How much of an increase is needed? How about boring out some wood dowel to accept the shaft of the tool?

I work basic retail jobs right now, and I got stung for nearly 10% of my last paycheck. A shared rent anywhere nearby would take about half my gross income. A single room house would cost about 12 years' salary, and downpayments are around 10% of the value. We also have a sales tax of 20% on almost everything. Gasoline is about US$8/gallon (and is taxed twice). Mandatory car insurance even on a tiny vehicle would cost me about £2k. But at least we have decent beer. Occasionally I can even afford to drink some.

I might also suggest using smaller needles, as there is more room tom maneuver the needle under the other thread inside the hole. I do not believe Tandy sells anything smaller than size 0 though.

Well I hope it goes without saying that acrylic paints and, to a lesser extent Fiebing's oil dyes, aren't period correct.

Are these mediaeval style bags supposed to be historically/period correct?

The specific purpose was using a 6-cord to stitch girth points on Aussie stock saddles, which is certainly where you would want some hefty threads. I calculated the equivalent in no8 (8/24) and rolled it up, and it is insane. The no8 hemp was from an eBay seller. It's unbleached, unlabelled and dryspun. I'd be happy to set you up with some if you are interested. I'm looking at getting a cop of Thrum from Abbey but I can't find a great deal of info on it.

Stanleys are fine for straight pull cuts so long as you strop your blades (never need to buy another; will be sharper than new after 10 seconds' work). They can be used for limited skiving too. Round knives allow a lot more options though.

I use a length of quite thick linen thread to strop the inside edge of my Ivan bevellers, tensioned in a cheap mini hacksaw frame, strengthened with beeswax and rubbed periodically with jewellers rouge. Works great.

Abbey Saddlery has em for a good price.

Slight piggyback: what advantages does the metal type have over the wooden one, or vice versa? I can get either for roughly the same price.

Well of course overstitich wheels aren't meant for marking out. I find they tend to meander, even within a stitching groover. I like English pricking irons. Got a nice racer on the way but I don't like sinking stitching that much; it changes the neat 'toppled domino' look and I think its necessity is overstated, especially when using linen thread and stickywax.

Vinagroon is iron acetate. Should be able to find some better Google results with that.

I used to know a guy who made a good living custom making premium belts. Many were lined. He cut, glued, pricked (with an iron of course) and got on with it. It was not the quickest job in the shop and he certainly charged for it but he was no neophyte at stitching and could work damned fast all the while holding a conversation. Sewing machines were a bit of a dirty word to him; if a customer mentioned one the price would go up.

Alan, whetstone is a little vague, it could be a lot of things. Should do the job but chances are if she isn't sure what it is it is likely to be a two sided synthetic oilstone of a certain type intended to put an acceptable edge on house carpenters tools. Bit coarse for the job but will improve the state remember if it is an oilstone to renove any traces if oil beford touching leather. This includes your hands and work surface. Worth remembering that wet and dry paper from the hardware store works great at s minimsl investment.

I would avoid large needles.Tandy seems to like selling em because they are easy to thread. I started with no2 needles but now use 4s since I hand roll my thread and the long tapers mean that I can fit almost any size to a no4 needle. Certainly makes stitching easier. Probably better to start learning by tapering machine rolled thread though.