Matt S

I bought a box of veg tan scraps from eBay when I was first starting. I found it to be very poor quality; very stiff. The back was obviously very shaggy and someone had tried to gum it slick but whatever they used mmade it quite flinty. Blunted a stitching gouge. A lot of it is still sitting at the bottom of my scrap bin.

I roll my threads from no12 linen yarn, or sometimes no8 yarn. I can make a thread of almost any thickness. You can roll your thin thread to make thicker ones.

The other issue is that holes close up with time. This is a good thing, since they will tighten around your stitches, but you will need an awl to reopen the holes if you do punch all the way through.

Stitching in a groove isn't often necessary.

Pricking iron and a diamond awl. Every time.

If you are simply using it to hit chisels, punches etc almost anything will do so long as it doesn't doesn't marr the tool. Wooden mallet, nylon hammer, hardwood branch, piece of 2x4...

Sounds like they're getting sweaty, like feet in shoes.

A chubby girl who works leather? What isn't there to like?

Blimey, soling belts? Still trying to get my head around that!

May I ask which starter set you bought? If it's the Tandy one I would suggest returning it and spending the money on better tools for the same or better price. Many people on here can guide you.

Dampen, apply saddle or glycerine soap and burnish lightly.

Hi Hally, welcome aboard. Remember that, just like the English language in general, British and American/Canadian leatherworking terminology can vary surprisingly. So too do tools and techniques in certain ways. Some great ways to learn the basics are the Al Stohlman books Hand Sewing, Case Making and Leatherworking Tools.

The one from Le Prevo is a Geo Barnsely. The half-moon and quarter-moon types are available for even less at Bachelors. Like a lot of professional tools they need sharpening when new, but my £13 quarter-moon knife is my main user.

It may be a bit of a daunting task, but many users will thin a Dixons pricking iron. They are notorious for having very thick teeth.

To calculate area, multiply the length of the blank by the width. To convert Square inches to Square feet, divide by 144. But this only gets you pay of the way there. Leather dealers sell cuts, which are proceed by the Square foot: Shoulders, bellies, backs, sides, butts etc. You need a piece which is long enough from which to cut two blanks. Presuming these are for adult men, you might be able to squeeze them out of a double shoulder, but you would have to cut them the "wrong" way so they might end up a bit too stretchy. To cut them the "right" way you will need a butt, side or back. These are big pieces of leather, and not cheap -- but they do work out well per usable Square foot if you need it all.

Do you mean a Sam Browne stud?

Same here.

In his 8th bushcraft book (bush leatherworking), Ron Edwards details a number of home-made leather tools. (The appropriate section is a reprint of his pamphlet on the same subject.) He details how to make an edge shave (edger) from a piece of 3-4mm fencewire. I did it with some 4mm piano wire, which is high carbon and so holds a better edge. Essentially you flatten the end with a hammer, cut a shallow angle notch with a hacksaw or the edge of a fine file, bend the head 'upwards' a tad for easier use, then harden, handle and hone. I gave up after I wasted several evenings producing inferior versions of a £10-20 tool.

Fold a piece of heavy paper in half. Draw an attractive curve, cut it out and unfold. Instant, symmetrical template.

I have the option of some well priced soling bends. I've played around with a few scraps but never a large piece. I have come across using it as a backing for leather pouches and even saddle bags. What are the uses of sole leather beyond making shoe soles?

Lovely work. Is that a pre-stainless Schrade Old Timer?

Twist/roll them.

Oblique light (falling at an angle across the leather) should help.

Have you tried phoning Dixons? Never know what they might say. Otherwise perhaps see if Abbey or the Worshipful Company of Saddlers etc can recommend.

Well the colour also depends upon the type of tanning material used. In the old days different barks (hemlock, oak, mimosa...) would all impart a different shade of "buff-beige-pink". These days processed veg tan concentrates are used in almost all large tanneries, and I doubt your Tandy worker would know or even understand the differences in tannage.