Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Can't beat that experience.

See attached, this is from a newer frame 335, and the bushing set screw comes in from behind as opposed to below, but this is certainly should help. 335(8-96_Pages.pdf

See attached, it looks like this machine possibly butts the hook up against the bushing. They way I would do this is to loosen the bushing set screw from below the cylinder, and then use a soft metal large dia punch, think brass or aluminum to strike the hook base (NOT the inside hook/bobbin case basket). It does appear that if you go too far, you will end up with this shaft shifting from side to side, not a good thing with the hook hanging off the end of it. It appears that the bushing stays against the hook to prevent this shift. Hope this helps

Those 146/199 books are limited in content.

I've seen that info. before, it's awesome.

Was that supposed to be a Seiko model LSW-8BL?

This is the only one I've ever seen for an industrial, from my notes.

This is an excerpt from A & E technical bulletin, this is what I use to size poly and nylon. Bonus points if you know all the comparison types.

The very original is the Stager brand model in Japan. The books are very limited, here is a page from the Seiko model that should help.

"Compound Feed Walking Foot Machines" is still sold by Consew Sewing. I learned; Feeders with 'two rows' of teeth help prevent the material from slipping laterally. I thought this was to do with thread clearance. Now I know. I first had seen how to open up the thread guard in the Compound Feed book, didn't know it originated in the Singer notes.

Just teasing a bit here, generally speaking, a Pfaff 438 is used or can be used for sewing up to 6,000 RPM, depending machine subclass and depending on goods being sewn. Ultra high speed capable zig zag. However, many are using this for light to light medium dacron with light to medium weight threads. Still, this is not pushing the motor like a walking foot may, in terms of low end torque.

438?? That's not real test, come on!!

I've got two of these machines, complete. In case anyone cares.

If you get one, I'll be on the lookout for a review, for sure.

...and you could be 100% correct, I'm not sure. When it comes to motors, the best thing you can do is install it, and see how how it goes in a real world situation. I've seen too many spec sheets and motors that look great, but just do not perform they way people would like. What kind of money is this, and I'm not holding you to it? I don't know anything about this motor and don't claim to, other than ISM motors are really good quality out of Taiwan.

ISM motors are very good quality, however, this appears to be one of the same sold by many other mfg.

Is there a model tag, on the back of the arm of the machine? This would provide a model number, and in turn, what model this is. There are MANY 67 subclass machines, and some are very different.

It was a kit he purchased out of Texas, and it included all kinds of harnesses, and stuff for gauges and things like that. Again, I'm not really into it, thankfully. I remember when the horn broke, it cost hundreds of dollars to get if fixed, and they were very hesitant to get involved, for good reason, after the engine was installed. The engine was never mounted correctly. I don't know all the details, other that, to this day, it's stuck up on the auto lifter for many years now. I remember connecting a line to the two tank gas tank thing as well, minor in the grand scheme of this. I don't even know if the car will ever even be safe to drive anymore. But boy does it look great, and I can remember the precise suspension and steering.

The ideal is a bonded top needle thread, and soft or non bonded bobbin thread. This helps the bobbin thread come off the spool very smooth and consistently.

Are you sure about that?

My dad has a Jaguar SJ6 4 door, 1984 model. Stunning appearance, wire spoke rims, classy all the way. Lucas components on this vehicle, as stated are through the friggin' roof on price, and the old adage is if you want to keep it on the road, you need one for the road and one for the shop. My dad, not satisfied with the status quo, decided to put a Chevy 350 small block in to replace the original engine with a kit that he purchased. Currently, this car is a total mess, with no end in sight. Glad I'm not much of a car guy, and anything beyond this is beyond me. MadMax22, yes, for sure, we are living in a disposable society now. There is a difference, in that the Singer motors were built to last for the long haul, and this new stuff...not so much after it breaks and stops working, not in the $200 price range. Higher end motors like Efka, Ho Hsing, Mitsubishi, and Juki do not fall into this category.

Nice. My dad started when he was sixteen working at Ace Sewing Machine Co. on N 3rd street, working for Danny Burg. His job started out by rebuilding these types of motors, a lot of 58 and 59 class, pressing new bearings, sending the motors out to be rewound. All that stuff, now history. Today, and for a long while now, these motors are like clock radios; there is no real practical reason to fix them. Time labor and parts will put you in the range of a new motor, and you'll still be stuck with an old motor.

CLICK HERE for the LU-563 book, it's on our website for download. On owners manual page 11, check out part # 14, and adjust the wing nut so that it up as high as it can go, or climb, for heavy materials. Also, check the tension like people said, so that it is a balanced stitch. Also, see attached image for Juki LU-1500 Series. I think this fits in perfectly into the content of this thread, and helps explain a lot. As far as getting into feed mechanisms on sewing machines can get you.