Gregg From Keystone Sewing

I'm interested in learning a bit more about thread lube and who uses it. The idea for this is that it helps prevent thread breaks, skipped stitches, snagging, and heat build-up in difficult sewing situations. Normally I don't recommend for people to use it over all in general, but this may be a mistake.

I like this stuff, never new that KAW was Adler. No idea what the "IG" logo is or where it's from.

If you like, I can sell you the same thing, made specific for the needle trade, only costing 1,000% more!

Ha, that's great, and I'll bet works very well.

See attached, your presser bar spring bracket is incorrectly adjusted. This is not in the book so here it goes; The bracket, if not adjusted correctly, will bottom out, and relieve proper presser bar spring pressure. Make sure that, with the presser feet down in a normal sewing operation, that the bracket clears both the presser bar bushing as seen in the picture, and also clears your machine's frame. This will provide constant pressure to the presser bar in order for this to work correctly. To adjust, cycle the machine by hand to where both presser feet are in contact with needle plate and feed dog, use a flat head screw driver to loosen the bracket clamp screw, lift the still under spring pressure bracket, also with a tool, I would use a flat head screw driver also to lift and then and the same time tighten with another screw driver the bracket screw.

I've attached the part of the owners manual that 'explains' how to adjust this feed fork. Pretty useless, but here it is! Like CowboyBob, set this so there is at least oil clearance.

That's GREAT, I've tried this a few times on my own without any success. After viewing this, I'll definitely try again.

This is the setup we use for the 206RB as well.

We do have these in stock, along with any other parts for a Singer 7-31, 7-33, or 7-34 model. We fully support this machine, sales, support and service.

These knee lifters are a total pain to install correctly, and I've installed a lot of them. They either want to hit the drip pan, hit the bell crank off the roller, all kinds of stuff. It's not fun to be stuck up under the stand to make these adjustments the way you need to on the machine. See attached, make sure that we have the knee lifter bracket "A" arms mounted in such a way so that it engages the bell crank on the machine head correctly. Also, pay close attention to the bend on the "Lifting Rod", see attached image, that pushes the machine's bell crank, we usually like to bend these in a vice close to a a 90 degree. It's really a see touch feel thing, but I think if you check the A arm alignment this may help a lot here. Hope this helps.

I just sold two for just above scrap prices, as is where is. Customer said he popped them onto his existing tables and they worked like a charm. We both couldn't be any happier.

Can you post a pic of your setup? I like working in these type of things.

True that, we don't claim to service or support Reece S2s or 101s. We used to have a guy who worked for Reece for many years, and would do some work for people in the area, and we would go through him when he was available. I love getting into things myself, and have never turned a screw on a Reece machine. As a matter of fact, I can't think of really anyone who wants to or is willing to get into service or support of these models. This must be factored in when trying to get started with a key hole button hole machine.

This is what I was thinking as well. Often the presser feet and feed dog do not match, and the points of contact tell the story. On some feed dog and presser feet combinations, the feed dog and presser foot are not even or hardly coming in contact with each other. This happens often with cording or welting feet where the foot print is smaller. Again, this depends on the setup, not machine, if you will.

I'm using Web.com for hosting and email, and yes, they also have a maxiumum limit of 500MB, that sounds like a lot, but it's really not. Then, if I push it up to one gig, it becomes more difficult to delete and clean up due to...the file size. I've even deleted the account and recreated it, just to get rid of the emails.

Piera's pics above tell most of the story.

Machine has been repaired and is ready for pick up.

I fully agree with everything being said here in terms of oil, BUT if you really must, why try and find 'the equivalent' and just buy what you are asking for? Juki part number is MDFRX2700C0 for NEW DEFRIX OIL NO.2, comes in a 700ml bottle for about $20. Not the best 'value' as a gallon of stainless lilly white is about the same price, but if you want OEM original, get the Juki oil for peace of mind.

Piera sent some pics to us yesterday, I logged on this morning and then seen the hook image in the top gallery. Now the machine is in here this morning for service with us! Small world, we usually check this before machine leaves when we sell these as this is a known issue, but this 1451S was not purchased by us, just for the record!

We normally put these into our 1960s Bridgeport to cut the frame away, but hacksaw has and may be done in the future as well! I've seen my dad cut the frame away on these with a hacksaw more than once, and is perfectly acceptable. Looks like someone did this highlift with a hacksaw as well, and machine may have shown up to us in that condition. Kindly note this is not the only thing we do to get this machine to one inch of presser foot clearance from Singer factory standard 9/16"

Sweet, it takes effort on both sides, and you were able to understand and articulate what parts you were after to make this machine work. You never know how these things are going to go when I send out parts and someone else does the work, glad I was able to be a part of getting your machine back up and running.

Good info., first thing I would look at is a top and bottom feed zig zag, here are two; Consew 347R Series (WS is for wet suit) feed off the arm type Consew 146RB-1A-1WS flat bed type

-Michael Here's an image from Seiko's owners manual showing how to insert a wound bobbin into the bobbin case.

31-15, 206RB, LU-563, Singer 111W ALL take the same identical table top, new, no variances. Pfaff 545 can work also, but you'll have to make some minor table mods, not really a big deal. Keep in mind that the 31-15 and 206RB use the same drip pan and in some cases knee lifter. Singer 111W and LU-563 share the same knee lifter and pan. Pfaff takes it's own knee lifter and pan setup.

Sweet, that's a nice job on the upper tension stud for sure. If you can do it yourself, your ahead of the game for sure.