Gregg From Keystone Sewing

See attached. I've never used this or needed to; after a while, we do it by feel. But, if you don't know what is too tight or too loose, here is a baseline guide. Too loose, the belt will slip. This is not a timing belt or chain on an engine; you'll never damage the machine by slipping the belt on the pulley if it is too loose. Too tight, at the motor can jack rabbit start, as where you push down on the motor treadle and the motor goes from zero to 60 with no control in between. This can also put excessive load on the machine and motor pulley and prematurely wear out these parts.

Just to follow up a bit and add to Wiz's comments, see attached. This is an example of the climb adjustment found on many, many walking foot machines. Older Singers have a fixed hinge screw and a worm gear eccentric that rides across the top shaft in some cases, but again, same thing. Some machines have a large mechanical dial on top to perform the same adjustment that is easier for the operator to adjust on the fly. In addition to all that, there are electronic solenoids or pneumatic controls that can do this automatically when certain conditions are met on the programming of the control box, or where the user can push a button off or on for preset settings that are higher or lower foot lift.

I really enjoy working with the DC1550AB321s as well.

Trust me, 206RB-3 and STH-8BLD-3 are not identical mechanically, were not made in the same factory.

Here's the book for this machine, dug deep out of Keystone's archives, if it was not already posted here; Pfaff 138 Owners Complete

Everyone has a base model, mine are Seikos. I've meet Mr. Seiko, if you will who was with us working the Consew booth at a trade show with my Dad and I. Again, this is when Consew was selling the Seiko line, some time ago.

Consew 206RB series, when introduced in the 70s, was sold outside of the US as a Seiko brand, model STH-8BL, then STH-8BLD, and then as STH-8BLD-3. When brought into the the US at time, as an exclusive dealer, Consew would have their name brand and model. For some reason, I know a lot about that machine, and the people who put in together. They took some elements of the Adler safety clutch and forget, but a lot went into the bobbin case opening lever thingy too.

Never heard of them, until now. They are trying to piggy back of the (I guess now famous?) Highlead factory name.

Hi Lee, thanks for the motor review. We sell a lot of the FESM-550S, as well do others around here as well, and we like this one a lot. Very simular to the Consew CSM-550-1 that we offer as well, both are work really well, very reliable motors.

Ahhhh, the tension release slide. I've seen many of these poorly made on brand new Chinese machines...it's not the 1st thing you want to have to replace on a new machine. As you can see, it's a big job to replace.

What's the first two numbers of the serial number?

CSM1000-CSM4002ServoMotorsOperatingInstruction.pdf

Ocean, I've attached a brochure for the Consew, good luck on making a decision! ConsewPremierP1541S-CC.pdf

Pfaff 563, high speed single needle for garment work, not to be confused with a Juki LU-563.

Great job, super excellent well thought out video. Really smart to find the correct tension release slide, these can be problematic if they are not made properly.

J7R brand motor with control box KE120B uses syncronizer model SY2D that we offer and have in stock if you are need.

I can hardly believe my life has come to me viewing online pics of a sewing crate with real, genuine interest. Looks great by the way, and yes, we have had many cardboard boxes show up with smashed machines inside. I've long wondered how UPS can show up with equipment damaged so badly I couldn't have done better myself if I tried.

You can put the hook position finger (hook supporting plate) back in place, but if the finger does not look like this in the pic, it will likely come back out again. I'm in Philly, about an hour from Telford PA where OP is from, and this would be covered by our warranty for sure.

Lots of sections on the leather worker, this is the link to where you can go to offer equipment, BTW, you may want to inform folks what motors are on these two machines, it's likely going to be the 1st question asked, outside of asking price. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=82

Excellent video, thanks for sharing.

Consew 226 and 111W155 use same foot, feed, plate, hook, presser feet, and many other things, so what one can do, the other can duplicate. Most common feed dog type that has smooth rubber instead of teeth is part number 264510R, and you would need to use throat plate 240144 that is most common standard throat plate, but this may have been changed out. There are other rubberized combinations available as well, this is for us the most common.

After all these years, this what we still use to scrape the bed paint off, and we've done a lot of them.

1st things first, we really need to go in and replace the broken tension release slide. After that, I'll bet someone here $1.00 I know what the issue is here with the needle bar frame feed dog hook thing. Seeing the video at 1:26 you can clearly see from the side the needle playing catch up. View attached image, then remove the gib, turn this over by hand and you'll see this problem disappear. If so, this means the gib is too tight. It can take a few tries to get this set correctly. On the longest stitch length setting, we set this by putting sewing oil all around the contact point between the gib and rock frame. When the gib is set correctly, you should be able to see an oil ooze out from around the gib with no real feel of side to side play by hand as the frame sweeps front to back. If you don't see this it means the gib is too tight, and is going to lock up and have to play catch up with the feed. Hope this helps!!

And here's a pic

From what I can see, this is the most closely related machine that may work; http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-277RB-1