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Gregg From Keystone Sewing

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Everything posted by Gregg From Keystone Sewing

  1. Seiko STH-8BLD-3 Owners and Service Guide Check out section 8-5 Adjusting the needle with feed timing
  2. Sweet design, I'm sure he's going to love it!
  3. I can make a video and post to YouTube. I've never had a problem doing it my way, and would like to share. And I'm certainly not saying my way is the best way.
  4. This is very common on 241s and machines of other classes with this type of stitch length regulator. *I usually get a dowel pin, push it into the screw hole for the handwheel set screws, and pull. *Make sure you know what direction to pull, clock or counter clockwise, or you can break the machine. This will depend on if the machine is jammed in the longest or shortest stitch length.
  5. Not going to help with this here, but I've attached the Pfaff 463 service manual that does not cover belt install. 463 463H(3-86.pdf
  6. This information at the one minute mark...is impossible to find. The only place I remember reading this is, actually in the 111W manual. None of any of the modern manuals for many machines that use the same tension go into this in the owners or even engineers manuals, yet the thread controller stop is a critical setting.
  7. McMaster-Carr is awesome, I buy a lot of stuff from them. A lot of hard to find stuff shows up at my door a day after ordering, they must have a warehouse close by to me.
  8. *I got 14.89mm, .0586", or .37/64" or 19/32" if you will. *Not exactly the 5/8" I was thinking of, I need to check my numbers again!
  9. JustPaul, I think one of the ladies you spoke with were a bit confused, and sorry if you felt like we blew you off. Nothing of the sort. See attached images, hope these help. 5/8" is the drill hole size, see approximate where to drill this hole. All of this said, often our table suppliers drill this hole for the table pin hinge, and as that may sound convenient, it's not always in the correct spot for your specific machine. It's a toss up to start drilling holes in the table or not. Anything else, please call or email, I'm eager to help. Gregg
  10. 5/8" bore pulley is very common for many new servo motors. Consew's clutch motor from I think the sixties and seventies made in Japan had this pulley bore.
  11. I can't agree more, we have one on display as in front of our shop.
  12. Mitsubishi is a needle feed, the Consew is a walking foot. Gauge sets are very easy to get for both and common, and not too crazy expensive.
  13. 91-010002-05/000 is $173.25 Pfaff list price. Replacing this top arm shaft is about as big a job as you can have with a machine like this, I would recommend thinking twice before investing money in a machine like this. Finding one used can be hard, and I'm only assuming that the machine was working well before it was dropped. I would check the casting to make sure that there are no cracks elsewhere as well. Hope this helps.
  14. ROT (Right Outside Twist, also called an S twisted thread) would help, but also make sure you are using bonded thread, that remains one cord if you twist in between your fingers a few times.
  15. Consew 206RB, RB-1 Parts CLICK HERE Consew 206RB, RB-1 Owners CLICK HERE
  16. Make sure the feed dog carrier is set to the correct height. I've checked the owners book and it does not cover this. When you cycle the machine by hand, the bottom valley of the feed dog should be at the same level of the needle plate. Hope that helps.
  17. Never heard of I type, but I'm sure it's out there. A, G, S, L, M, and U are the more common type.
  18. Singer 7-31, 7-33, 132K6, 45K, 144W, 144A, Consew 733R series, 744R, SK-2R, Adler 220, Seiko JW class, SLH-2B. There are many many more, but these come to mind for me.
  19. That the way to do it, good job getting it done.
  20. From what I know, this is a machine that superseded the Bernina 217 model. Quality of the machine is top notch. Parts could be an issue, not sure.
  21. T563 is a good quality machine, pretty sure made in Taiwan. You should be able to obtain parts that you need for about $150 or so, from what you described. Juki LU-563 parts often cross reference with other machine makes and models, and any supplier I can think of has a lot of spare quality generic parts for this machine. Not to mention genuine Juki as well. You will not have to search far to find the parts you need, and they should not cost a crazy amount. In contrast, as comes up on this message board frequently, if this were a Pfaff or Adler, you can forget it with parts like that missing. But that's not really the case here at all in my opinion.
  22. Here's the parts for Adler 30-1. To the best of my knowledge, every part is both available, and very expensive. Adler 30-1.pdf
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