Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Very interesting, I'll check my Singer books on these.

All I know is that the Pfaff safety clutch can be frustrating when it's not set correctly, to the point that I've seen many come in welded into one piece to make it a straight hook driving shaft. Here are some more opinions of mine, please feel free to add on or comment, please. My favorite type is the Adler type, also common on Seiko STH-8BL and Consew 206RB series as well. Juki DNU-241HS comes to mind as well. This is my favorite spring and ball clutch. Very reliable, and adjustable with the single adjusting screw. The second image has the Singer 211 type clutch. This was the least common, and least popular clutch I've seen, and for good reason. On paper, it looks pretty good. Until you have to go and use it. This is also a spring and ball type clutch, but the good stops there. We have three springs, balls, adjusting and check screws. Difficult to adjust correctly. I was taught to do one lose, one medium, and one tight. I don't know if this was the best way, at all. The other complete downside to this is that the stitch length was incorporated into the safety clutch. This eliminated the need for two confusing silver shinny buttons on the bed of the machine. But now, worst of all, the clutch is incorporated into the stitch length. It is not uncommon for an operator to disengage the clutch if you simply went too far either way adjusting the stitch length. And imagine if the stitch length regulator is messed up and loose? Singer 111W155 type appears on many, many makes and models, so I don't even want to start. This one works well, is reliable, and is nice in that the cog can spin free when the clutch is released and not engaged. The only downside is that the counter hook spring (index #48) that is about the thickness of a paper clip, likes to fly off and disappear. We then have to push, or hold the counter hook in place to rest the clutch. Again, these are just some opinions of mine, and I'm interested in what other may have to say.

Uwe, I got this from the Consew 205RB-1 book.

Is this a possible adjustment on the machine?

LOL, just noticed the 'lucky' foot pedal. Very nice.

Adler 166 Owners Adler 166 Parts Adler 166 Brochure

Adler 166, 266, and 366 all use this same race.

We get quite a few Adler 166 machines in here for service, and stock some of the common items. It's a machine that comes up quite a bit here. Not in the 166-1 book, we use the race rings from, among others, the 366 parts book to move the hook closer to the needle. See below image.

Here is the most information I've seen between the two, and I'm even more confused after reading and studying both. Polyester Thread Information.doc Nylon Thread Information.doc

Those used to be pretty popular, cutting the bushing was almost always a given. I don't think our suppliers domestic even carry those anymore.

I'm very interested in finding out what model Singer that is. So far I've come up dry.

I scanned this book years ago, hard to find around the internet. 145 545.pdf

Obviously only one way to find out...report back please!

Very confident that's a chainstitch, two thread single needle.

You seem to be on the correct path, as you mentioned, the correct needle system is 134-35, and is a longer needle than a 134. You will have to correct the needle bar height, but the needle bar and thread guide will then in turn be nowhere near close to hitting the presser feet.

Sorry I was trying to type desirable.

Singer 20U made in Japan is a very describable machine.

Tri-Flow has...magical properties. That said, we also us Castrol hi temp grease, for axle, disk breaks, stuff like that.

H4 has a higher lift, and needs the 190 system needles to work correctly here. H3 uses 134-35. If you go from one system to the next, you will have to change needle bar height (not hook timing). Shank is the same, but keep in mind the longer the needle, the more deflection. Ha, beat me by seconds!

I'm investigating the parts books now; Part pdf Adler 205-370 Part pdf Adler 205-374 They have so many parts variations!

Thanks for the review, machine looks great.

Great stuff, really amazing UWE. I've got one motor supplier who provides both nominal and maximal torque for example here a DC1550 motor with nominal 1,9Nm, Maximal torque 8Nm. I have no idea how to apply that to a real world application, but I can tell you this motor is very powerful! You can visit this items product page here; https://www.efka.net/en/products/electric-motors/dc1550/

I found this floating around, this supplement is for this exactly, but still not 100 percent clear. 1500 Series Supplement on lubrication.pdf

Second post; this video is flat out AWESOME. Great job UWE.