JohnD

Just out of curiosity, Has anyone ever tried using the vinegaroon and then the baking soda/water bath before tooling, as a casing? I was just wondering how that might work out? John

I was wondering if anyone might have an idea how to create an aged cracked finish on leather? I've done it before but it was unintentional and I can't remember what I did. About a year ago, I made a seat for a guy and in his car on the way home, stuff shifted and he ended up with a big scratch on it. He tried to touch it up but the color didn't match. He called me and I brought some of the dye I used and, with the wrong color stuff already there it didn't help. So we used something to remove some of the dye and I cant remember what, but after redying and finishing, The finish cracked and the seat look aged. It just so happened that the bikes paint job had been done in the same way to make the bike look like an old racer. Now the same guy wants me to do a seat and pillion in the same finish and I can't remember what we used. Acetone maybe? So, I'm curious if anyone might know of a proper way of aging the finish? In the meantime I'll be experimenting with some things to see if I cant stumble onto it again. Thanks for any responses. John Also, the leather had been wet formed to the pan (before finishing), could this have contributed?

Nice work, where did you find the IBEW stamp?

Daniel, Is this the place? http://www.texascustomdies.com/products.html Do they make punches that you would use with a hammer, or is it only clicker dies? Just curious. John

Thanks for the tip, Pete. Sounds like something I could use for sure, But I have no idea what a shoe gum eraser is or where to find one? If you could provide any further info, that would be much appreciated. Thanks again. John

David, I saw Grail this weekend at a swap meet. He was pretty excited about the seat. Pictures of it are up on Greasebag.com. This is a cool event, that's getting bigger every year. Guys like you are helping to keep this thing going and keep it free for everyone, so thanks for that. John

The seat came out great, David. I can't wait to win it. (or at least check it out in person.) The guy that won your seat last year was stoked.

I thought if anyone would appreciate this story, the people here would. Thanks for all the kind responses. I have, all of a sudden, become very busy with the spring coming and everyone wanting to get there bikes finished, but, I've made the wallet a priority. Of course I won't charge him. Most of the stuff I make, aside from the motorcycle seats, I do for free anyway. Johanna, your high opinion of me is flattering, Thanks and my wife says you're right. John

I was working about two hours north of where I live and somehow I lost my wallet, without even knowing it.( I've posted pictures of it in the wallet topic when I first made it.) As I pulled into the town I live in, my cell rings. The person on the other end tells me he found my wallet. I start thinking about turning around and driving the 2 hours back up to get it, when the guy tells me he lives in the same town that I do. We arrange to meet later. When He returns the wallet, I offer him some money for his troubles/honesty, which he refuses. He tells me how nice the wallet is and asks where I got it, so I tell him that I made it. He pulls his wallet out, pretty beat up and worn. He had it made years ago when he visited England. So he tells me again how he likes my wallet and has been looking for something just like it, so, of course I offer to make him one, which he starts to decline and quickly says "are you sure?". So, I'll be making one for him. I just couldn't believe my luck, to lose my wallet, 2 hours from home, only to have it found by a guy who lives in the same town as me. An honest guy to boot. Not only does he live close to me, he owns the company that maintains the satellite facilities for the company that I work for (which is how he got my cell number, by calling one of my coworkers who knew me). I just thought I would share. I hope this is in the right thread, it is about leather stuff........mostly. John

Nice, I like it alot. As far as finishes, I've used just about everything, Super sheen, Aussie wax, neutral shoe polish, pecards, anything that will have a flexible finish will work. The pecards and aussie wax ( the better choices for weather proofing) take a while to dry so make sure to use a light coat and rub it into the leather, then buff it out when dry ( I usually leave it overnight to dry). The super sheen works good as finish, but you have to be careful applying it, if you leave streaks you'll see them when its dry and you can't buff them out. Some people spray it on with nice results. I've found that more than two coats of super sheen is a little too shiny for my taste, like a patent leather look. It also doesn't repel water very well if exposed to heavy rain and such. The owner of the shop I make seats for likes the super sheen for all his production seats. Sometimes, if I leave too many streaks, i will rub in some neutral shoe polish and buff that to a shine to hide them. There's a ton of options out there and as long as it dries and dries flexible it should be fine to use on a motorcycle seat. Some options are more weather resistant than others. Some people have talked about using neatlaque, I never have cause I was told its not very flexible when it dries, but I dont know from experience. I hope this helps you and again, the seat looks cool. John

Nice work. The very first holster I ever made was for the exact same gun. Well, not that particular gun, but one just like it. the holster was different, the guy wanted it to hang inside his front pocket. John

There's even one, if you look real close, that has a hot tub next to it. The one that says "the lodge" on the door. The local news did a little deal on it : http://www.wmur.com/video_legacy/18660273/index.html

Sorry for the crappy pics. I don't post stuff very much because I hate dealing with pic sizes, etc. speaking of crappy pics, here's one more with the wallet loaded. I can also see from the pics that I should give it a bit more burnishing.

I only carry about 5 things, drivers license, 2 debit cards, medical ins card and my DOT certificate. My old (store bought) wallet was just an id card holder. It was small, but, with everything stacked on each other, seemed bulky. when it fell apart, I wanted something small. I figured if I made it so that it was only two cards thick it would be comfortable enough. I think this worked out well. It fills my back pocket, but its very flat. For those who like to know: The whole thing is made from 2-3oz veg tan. The thread was a 5 strand that I split down to 2 and saddle stitched. The dye I mixed from red, yellow and light brown and added chocolate brown to the mix for the darker edges, finished with neutral shoe polish. This is my 2nd attempt at a wallet, the first went in the trash.

When the subject of bobhouses came up a few weeks back, some folks seemed interested in seeing pics of them. These are pictures from the Great Winnepesauke Fishing derby hosted by the Lakes Region Rotary. It happened last weekend, on Sat and Sun. these pics are from Fri evening. http://home.myfairpoint.net/~vze1wkbh/Phot...bum_1234797995/ The derby is in its 30th year. This year, for the first time ever, the same person won the grand prize and second prize. Hope you enjoy. John

I agree, Marlon, that it shouldn't matter with hand stitching, but, in Libby's link to jimsaddler's post he specifically mentions hand sewing. "The unraveling is usually caused by using Lefthand, Reverse (Z) twist thread when hand sewig. It is best to use a Righthand twist (S) . " So, I'm curious as to how it could make a difference with a needle at both ends? While searching for clarification I came across this http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/144/ , which didn't clear anything up but does mention using an "opposite twist" for hand sewing. My concern with this is that, lately, I seem to be having some trouble with my stitching. I've been making quite a mess of things at times and would like to get to where my stitching is neat and consistant. I would have posted in the thread from Libby's link but figured this was a more recent thread on the subject. John

Maybe I'm missing something, but from Barra's picture it looks as though left or right twist would be a matter of which end is up? It seems that most folks that handstitch have a needle on either end, so I guess I'm not seeing how the right or left twist makes a difference? John

The one I mentioned was still operating and would, at certain times of the day, release some vent, that would stink out the whole neighborhood. I agree, making things is what our founding fathers intended for us to do. The lack of is why we're in the mess we're in. I keep it because I need to be reminded alot. Truly, words of wisdom. Hope you don't mind? John

nice seat, the lacing came out great. Is this going to be used for display? If not, you may have overlooked the mounting hardware? excellent work on everything and I won't even qualify that with "for your first", cause it looks good even it was your tenth. John

I grew up in Lynn, When I first browsed the article I thought " I don't remember a leather museum", but when I looked back I saw that it hasen't opened yet. I'll have to make a trip down when it opens. There was a tannery at the end of my street when I was growing up, called Carr Leather, It used to smell horrible. Stunk up the whole neighborhood. Just thought I'd share. Thanks for the info rdb. John

Rivetting is probably the most common way. You don't need a pnuematic rivet gun, but you will need to drill holes in the pan. Basically, you drill the holes in your pan, put in a rivet or two in one edge to secure it, then proceed around the seat pulling the leather tight, punch your next hole in the leather and rivet it to the pan. I usually will start at the front or rear of the seat and alternate sides with each rivet, checking that the top of your seat stays centered. You'll want to wet the sides for thicker leather and really pull on it. You can really get the sides smooth by pulling it tight and working all the wrinkles to the bottom of the pan, then cut all the wrinkles and folds off and smooth the bottom with a bone folder or some such. A nice touch is to cover the bottom with wool felt from a craft or fabric store. Another way, probably better for the solo seats, is to secure the top to the bottom piece of leather. Cut your top piece. Cut your bottom piece, including all holes for mounting hardware. I usually glue the bottom to the pan with 3M spray adhesive. then I spray and glue the top, shape it to the pan and stitch around the sides. Some folks do this without the glue. Some folks rivet the bottom to the pan before stitching. Some folks use lace instead of stitching, but thats all up to you. Hope this helps, have fun. John

The links didn't work. Here they are again. http://www.change.org/ideas/view/save_hand..._from_the_cpsia http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/ComponentPartsComments.pdf The second link, for contacting the cpsc, seems to indicate that they are only interested in ideas or comments on how to ensure compliance. Another idea would be to write to your state reps and senators and let them know how you feel about this. John

I found this while surfing this morning and thought someone mind find it useful. http://www.woodcraftmagazine.com/onlineext...amp;pattern.pdf John

The JJ is where I first saw his work too. Having seen it up close is awe inspiring. His work is absolutely flawless. John

I use inches and lbs, just cause thats what I grew up with and is how I think. I can look at a nut or bolt and, usually, know what size wrench I need. I can pretty accurately guess ranges, distances and lengths so It makes my life easier to stick with it. I use the decimal system for accuracy, no less accurate than the metric system in my opinion. Plus, I'm used to it so its easier for me. I thought The Ton was 100mph? John