camano ridge

What are you using for the liner?

Josh, nice job. Again I am also one that does not get excited about skulls however i really like the look of this rig.

The retention screws are just 8-32 0r 6-32 screws with same thread T nuts, finishing washers and pieces of hose. Everything is available many sources on line or through hardware outlets even tandy now sells black t nuts. I think Rob thebluegunstore has some if not all of it available. If you want a little starte kit so you can see what you need go to old faithful holsters http://oldfaithfulholsters.com/shop/hardware-replacement-pack/

Paint will probably peel. Like electrathon said remove asmuch as you can use good qualit dy. If it is paint you may be able to remove a good bit of it. Try denatured alcahol if you can get it. rum the heck out of painted areas to remove as much as possible. The alcahol may be cheaper and easier to get. The only advantage to paint like cova color is that it is thicker and will hide things better, however it may flake off. When you get it claened up as much as you can try dying if it does not get the look you want then you can still try painting.

Josh, a lot of nice work there.

I just boght some today from Mcphearsons in Seattle WA http://www.macphersonleather.com/ they are 3/8" and are listed as extra long they had them in brass nickle and black. Not sure they are listed on there sight give them a call. They have whole sale pricing if you are a business.

When you go to Duncans Outdoor click on Duncans Custom then click on current Inventory and download inventory list. http://duncansoutdoor.com/?attachment_id=2931

I agree there may be better wheels out there the ones I use are from 40 years ago. The slant to your hole comes from positioning your diamond awl when you pierce your hole. I usualy position my awl so that top (or apex) of the diamond is turned about 20 - 45 degrees to the right of my stitch line. My stitches usually end up looking pretty straight. Here are a couple examples where you can see my stitching. Just to be clear I am not saying there is anything wrong with pricking irons many people use them and like them. I just have never needed to use one.

Every body has there own way of doing things, I have been doing leather work for over 40 years. My system is mark the stitch line, groove then mark my stitches with an over stitch wheel, use awl to make holes stitch and go over with overstitch wheel to smooth and press down stitches. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/craftool-overstitch-wheel-system-8091-00.aspx The advantage of the overstitch wheel is that you can by multiple wheels for different spi much cheaper then buying different pricking irons. I think it is faster as you just roll the wheel in the groove you don't have to keep repositioning the pricking iron. Then after you stitch you can roll the over stitch wheel over the stitches (hence the name). to smooth and flatten out the stitches try that with a pricking iron. Just my two cents worth and just the way I do it.

Call Rings manufacturing (makers of blue guns) see if they have one in stock. It might cost a little more then from Bluegun store however if they have one you should get itt faster.

Go to the on line Tandy leaather library ther are many video for basic project like coaster to advanced projects holsters etc. Even Steam Punk projects, also many patterns some free. If you are going to get into sewing look at Nigel Armatige video on saddle stitching. Search specific topics on these forums. If you are into Pinterest do a search for how to do leather craft. You will get enough that it will take you a week to look through them all. The easiest is figure out where you want to start, tooling, simple wallet, phone case, etc, then search for and ask for help in that area.

Yes I have. It looks pretty good.

Give Texas Custom Dies a call, you never know they might have made one and if not they certainly can make one for you.

I agree vinagroon is great. Most of the time it works , however like anything else things can go wrong. If you get to strong a soda slurry or leave it on to long it can burn the leather. However you will have more then one area with the proble. Not saying it was the roon I just made that suggestion. Dwight over on cascity.com in the howto FAQ there is a topic of old time dyes there is a ton of information on vinagaroon from CHuck Burrows and others that is worth reading.

My advice is when ever you buy something from Tandy that needs to be sharp plan on sharpening before using.

You can find Bruce Johnson on theses forums send him a PM he might have some knowledge of them also WyomingSlick has a fair amount of knowledge about leather stamps.

Saddle stitch is used when doing lighter leather like for wallets as well. However you can use lighter thread. This is the way that it is done by most makers. When you put two thicknesses together you will bw dealing with 4- 8oz. Saddle stitch is very apropriate. If you have a better way go for it. It is not so important how you do it, what is important is if it works. WIth the saddle stitch you have thread being pulled aginst both sides giving you a strong seam. It is proven and works quite well. Wether I am sewing a lightweight business card holder or a holster saddle stitch is what i use.

Here are a couple of threads the first one discusses some sharpening. The second one discusses sharpening and has the same video attached but also discusses proper hammer and backing for using the punch.. http://leatherworker... +oblong +punch http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36751&hl=+how%20+sharpen%20+oblong%20+punch#entry227265

Here is a you tube video using a stone. The oblong punch starts about 3:01 on the video. Also do a search on these forums for sharpening leather oblong punch there are a couple of threads.

Does anyone have a Colt Government .380 dummy gun they would be willing to rent, loan, sell, trade what ever. If one exists it was probably made a while ago. Thanks for any info and or help.

I think you got it wrong. It probably broke because he was bursting with pride. Go Seahawks. I live just north of Seattle

Posting in sewing machines is good idea. Also call Tipmman and email them a picture to look at. I can't tell for sure from the picture it almost looks like your tension might be a little to tight. You will find there are two types of People those that love the Boss and those that hate the Boss. There are people on thiese forums that use the Boss and are happy with it.

I know you are familiar with using vinagroon. However when you get the belt back take a close look at the leather with a magnifying glass and feel the leather to see if it is brittle or crumbly. It is possible that that area either did not get neutralized well enough or got to much baking soda in that area (maybe not getting rinsed enough).

Go to this thread and watch Nigel Armitages videos on saddle stitching http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44874&hl=%2Bsaddle+%2Bstitch+%2Btutorial I would alos read the whole thread there are other videos attached and information that is exchanged. Use what ever thread gives you ther look you want wether it's sinew, waxed nylon, waxed linen etc. Many of use use a diamond awl for making the stitching holes some use pricking irons or pricking chisels, use what works for you.

Also if your guns finish comes in contact with non veg tanned leather you may damage the finish.