camano ridge

If you have not already check these out: conchos.com , http://www.buffalobrothers.net/ (they have more antique looking ones) montanasiversmiths.com They have some unique ones and I believe they do custom work as well.

Now you did Jim. I don't know what I need a journal for but now that I have seen your pattern I am going to have to make one.

DO you use resolene to seal python? What do you use?

GO over to cascity.com and do a search for pommel bags on the leathershop forum. I think there are some patterns and several nice examples to see.

I like 9-10 oz or 2 layers of 4-5oz. I am doing two cobra style slings right now both with exotic inlays both 9-10oz I will be stitching these around the cut out for the inlay and all the way around the out side edge (that stitching is mostly decorative. If I do two layers I always stitch theoutside edge. I will post pictures of the two under construction tomorrow.

Have you done a search on this forum? I believe there are acouple of versions here is one and can be done with out the holster. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=47280&hl=%2Bpommel+%2Bbags

Check these out. They have 2 1/4" inside length. Not sure of the opening width. http://www.albest.com/product.asp?Func=DispProd&SelCat=Holster+Clips&Page=1

Bluesman, my brain was not working when I typed the earlier post the final length is 44" tipt to tip adjustable approx 40" to 34". I will digg up my pattern for a two piece and get you the measurement of the wide part as well as the bottom strap.

Blues man the answer to almost all of your questions is D all of the above:). I make a lot of slings every customer seems to have a different desire. I am making two for a cutomer right now one Is black with a Python inlay and has to have silver thread because the rifle stock is black with swirls of silver through it and the barrel is stainless. His otherone is burgandy with stingray inlay and has to have black thread. Most of my slings are 40 - 44" tip to tip. I have patterns that range from 1 3/4" to 3" at the widest part. If I make a two piece sling the wide part does not taper as much as a one piece does. although I do put in a thumb holeor thumb strap I get very few request for them even though I make sure my customer knows I offer them. I always ask my customer what width ssling swivels they have if you put a 1" width sling into a 1 1/4" swivel it will slide back and fourth a little some customers don't like that so I usually try to have a snug fit. It does not matter what rifle make it is, it matters that you have enough adjustment to fit the person and the rifle. If i were to make a stock sling I would probably make it adjustable from 36 - 44" 1" wide for for swivel attachment and 2 1/4" wide lined with suede thumb loop optional. As you see I did not really give you a difinative answer. Most is customer preference unless you are trying to create a stock sling.

Todd, since your roon is three years old I assume you have used it before. You know that roon is not a dye it chemicaly changes the leather. Even with doing the just the edges you should still neutralize with backingsoda/water mix. You may see a change in color along the edges on the face and back of the leather since the roon will effect allthe leather that it touches and is absorbed into. If you have not already take a scrap piece dye the edge with the roon see how it takes it. Then once dry try your different products, Gum Trag, bees wax etc and see which one you like best.

I am going with the G30 blue gun even thoe the SF is supposed to stand for short frame. I went to shooters link and just for the heck of it I added the 30S for compariison and it shows basically the same dimensions for all three. Just a little difference in overall length. http://us.glock.com/products/compare?g1=g30sf&g2=g30&g3=g30s&g4=

The problem with anything finished is that it usualy does not take well to stamping or carving, Because it's finished. However there are things you may be able to do to make them truly custom and one of a kind. Such ase stitching to make initials, kind of like embroidery. You could also cut a piece to the size and shape you want tool it stamp on initials burnish the edges and stitch on to the boot in the place and position you want. If done well it willl look good depending on the boot you start with. DO you have the boots npow and if so can you post a picture it would help people with making suggestions.

Most of them sell for around $900.00 to $1000.00 on the low end. If you do a craigslist search all you will occasionally see them being sold for less.

Yes,m that is where my confusion was comming from and some place I found the width of the 30 showing as 1.15". I think I am squared away now.

Thanks shooter I did understand the 30S is different. I have the 30 and in comparing the specs the thirty appears different as well. Thanks everyone for your input.

I don't know what kind of press you have here is one using a Harbor Freight hydraulic press. http://www.shoeschool.com/shoeschool/downloads/pdf/Hydraulic_Cutting_Press_ShoeSchool.pdf

Thanks, Eaglestroker for your input. I guess I am going to have to get a 30S Blue gun and compare it to a 30SF at the store. I have the 30 blue gun. THe slide on it is 1.15" slimmer then the 30sf or 30S which are both suposed to be 1.27"

Thanks, however I am aware of the 30, 30S 30SF. I have a request for a holster for the 30SF. I have only found Blue guns for the 30 and the 30S. Have not found one for the 30SF. Was trying to see if either the 30 or the 30 s would work. Does not look like the 30 will work. However when looking at the 30s and the 30sf. The description says the 30 S has a slimmer slide then the 30SF yet the spec sheets show they are both 1.27" measured at the same place. I am not to concerned about the back strap mainly the slide area that will be in the holster.

It's a little confusing, I found that there is the 30, 30s and 30 sf. I have a customer that wants a holster for a 30sf. WHen I check the forums and the specs there are discrepencies in that they say the 30S is slimmer then th 30 sf built on the 30 sf slide yet when you look at the specs The description of the 30 S says it has a slimmer slide then the SF yet the width shows the same.

Looking for anyone who has made a holster for the Glock 30SF. is the Glock 30 blue gun close enough to use for the 30 SF. the specs look like about a .15" difference in slide width and the manual safety.

The belt loop was done at customers request. It is to keep the holster from pulling up, however it is some what redundant since there is the stopper strip on the paddle. The other purpose of the belt loop is depening upon where you wear it on your belt it may butt up a gainst a pant belt loop this helps keep it from sliding around. Paddle holster do have a tendancy to move around. You will find that the strip on the paddle is more effective then a strip on the back of the holster. The paddle is between the belt and the body so when you draw if the holster pulls up the strip will hit the bottom of the belt and is trapped between the belt and the body so has no place to go. If it was on the back of the hoster it might hit the bottom of the belt, however ther would be nothing to keep it from pulling away from the belt and pulling up.

Ike, here are some pictures that might help you, again I use tee nuts burried in the leather asndwich. the one picture shows a snap around belt loop that also acts as a spacer between the paddle and the holster. Even if you don't us a loop I would still put the spacer in there. Hope this helps any questions just ask.

I don't suposeyou have any plans for a Bond derringer mold? I cannot find one anywhere. Duncans made some a couple years ago I am told.

Idon't use Kydex in the layers of the holster. Nothing wrong with it just not the way I do it. However the system I use for fastening the paddle to the holster ist to put a tee nut in between the layers of the holster. When you make the paddle drill or punch holes at the top of the paddle that line up with the tee nuts sticking out from the holster. Use srews from the back side of the paddle to atach to the holster. You can counter sink the screws if you want to be flush with or just below the surface of the paddle. I have one down in the shop I will try to post some pictures later to show you what it looks like. Here is a picture of a tee nut. I cut the prongs down to the height I need. THey will not spin and make strong atachment points.

Here is another one for you to try, they show several models in steel or stainless and have a veriety of finishes. They also say you can request a sample. http://www.albest.com/product.asp?Func=DispProd&SelCat=Holster+Clips