Hello to all you fellow leather addicts!
During the last few months I've played around with western holsters and came up with a few questions:
- Using two layers of thinner leather flesh to flesh and making stitching grooves on front and back I was wondering if I shouldn't prefer a creaser over a groover as not to weaken the whole construction. Should I? Could I?
- I also experimented with a "Wild Bunch" holster for a 1911 made of 8-9 oz leather lined with 4-5 oz, also using Mike G. Katsass' double layer technique. It came out OK although rather stiff which makes up for "quick draw qualities" and zero retaining. By the way, I treated it with a solution of ferric nitrate and several coats of oil and got a nice, deep black. When I folded the leather I found that there had to be a lot of stretch on the outside of the fold (which I had wettened) and that any tooling, had I done some, would have been flattened out by now, right?
- I gather that some or most of you experienced pros glue in the lining after folding over the holster. So the tooling wouldn't suffer much but now other questions are arising: Do you countersink the stitching in the lining? If so, how do you get a stitching groove into the lining where the folds are?
Thanks to all who might take the time to enlighten me!
Rudi