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Hi all and thanks for looking. i was browsing thru my LW books and found these stuck in the back of one of them. Since i dont do any carving, i thought i would sell these to anyone that want ALL of them. i dont want any $$ other then $ 5.00 for shipping USPS Priority Mail. They will fit in one of the USPS 8.5x11 envelopes. these templates are USED. I dont see/feel any cracks in them, but they do have some wows in them. descriptions are as follows T/B: Craftaid # 2707. Alphabet/Monograms. apparently this one and # 2700 can be used togeather. Craftaid # 2020. Billfold. i used a template like this on my first billfold in HS. Craftaid # 2700. Alphabet this last one has no envelope/number. it appears to be a flower/lily of some type. Dont know if its craftaid since all of the other above templates have "craftaid" and/or the number embossed into the template. iac, its included with the bunch. this template has a size of approx 7 inches tall x 9 inches wide. if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

im glad they were helpful. i find them to be alot of help. i use them alot and im not sure if you made it up to the tack department. that old building just screams history. fyi, there is a "leatherfactory" outlet over near PDX if youre in the area. they were/are offering some clinics too.

i just p/u some wool/felt shoe/boot insoles. my cousin sold them in her store so i just bought them from her. i didnt need alot of the material tho so an insole worked.

i notice when it comes to horseback riding, alot of people over state their qualifications. usually a test ride will show what they do and dont know.

you can compress your data files, but be aware that sometimes, things can go wrong during the compression and will affect the data. i dont compress my data files so i dont have any direct experience with data compression other then trying to xfere data from one PC to the next. i have had some data compression failures from these xfers and that is why i say it. you may have different sw and the sw may have improved since then. but i just dont do it. depending on the total size of the files needed to be bu, you maybe able to burn them onto DVDs as data files. i ve been using them since they are fairly inexpensive and take up little physical space. you can go the external HD route as you inquired. you can buy them or build them. it all depends on what you want to do. I see used HDs on craigslist along with complete used external HDs for sale. if you have any used PC retailers in your area you can look for used HD/ext HDs there too. we have a place that takes old PCs and such for recycling and they have a store where they sell some of the parts and PCs that work. they maynot be the newest stuf, but they work. you can buy an used internal HD and buy a external case for it. usually the cases are < $50 w/PS and such. you just install the HD and plug in the power connecters and such and youre ready to go. ive had bad luck with Western Digital HDs so i try to stay away from them. they made a bad batch, i had the unfortunate luck to get them in my PC and Mac units. whats the chances of that? if your PC has USB2 on it or the latest/fast bus, i would try to find a HD/Ext HD with it. as far as doing a bu on C:\ i think its a waste of storage space. you should have your apps sw and worst case, you would have to reinstall your OS/Apps.

im not sure if im missing something here, but can you just fabricate a flat table for your existing cylinder arm? i made/making one for mine. its not purty, but it works. its bulky tho. the area where the cylinder arm is has a gap where the table joins it. just a thought.

+1 to all of the above. i would like to add. since you know what you want to sew, thats have the battle imo. i would also: 1. Have samples of the leather you want to sew available so if/when you find a machine, you can test drive it and verify it will do what they say it will do. 2. if you are making something like purses/chaps or whatever, ask the people making them what machines they use. you maynot find the exact one, but you may see a pattern or the info may help in your search. 3. for the decorative stitching, try to get samples of the stitching. pictures, old boot pulls or whatever so you can show the sales person exactly what you want.

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i have some 1" black elastic too. Its weaver #7320. selling for $1.00/yard.

Hi all and thank you for looking. I have some extra elastic I want to sell. I just bought the whole rolls at the time since I wasn’t sure how much I would use/need at the time. I have most of the roll left over and dont want to keep all of it so im selling most of the roll. pic below: Elastic #1 1 inch wide x approx. 1/8 inch thick. Its green w/burgundy sripes, This stuff is like Weavers #6100. Im selling this elastic for 1.00/yard. Shipping is on your dime and your choice Elastic #2 1.5 inches wide x approx 1/8 inch thick. Gray? in color. There is a splice/joint somewhere in the middle of the roll. Im selling this for $1.25/yard. Shipping is on your dime and your choice. Thanks for looking. Acceptable funds: USPS MO, Personal check (held for 7 work days) Sales to CONUS only. Also, shipping from zip 97203. any questions, feel free to ask.

id get something like masonite or maybe some cheap plastic.

in addition to all of the above. i use excel to record all of my purchased with regards to hardware, leather and stuff. so when it comes down to how much did pay for the hardware im using i will know. same for the leather and all of the other non leather sewing stuff i have. i also keep track of my repairs/builds/projects in a notebook. i will include customers name, phone number, date, materials used, color, if the equipment was new or used, and how much time it took to repair or make. i will also note what the customer wanted. i will also sketch what it is that the customer wants so that if there are any questions later, i can refer to the info. i know it maybe more involved then others are willing/want to put into, but i use it for my reference as to how long a particular job took me the first or last time.

bruce, thank you for the info with regards to Herb. If i dont get any hints for someone around here, i will give Herb a try. I will also get one of his books too. rc

the only time i spill them is when trasnfering them from dunking container back into the bottle/jug. what i do is to keep them in a container that if any of them spilled/broke, the contaienr would contain the spill. i got some of those rubbermaid stoarge containers for my use, but others will work fine too. you can try making a base/holder that will hold the bottles of dye while in use. something wtih a wide base to keep it steady and with a deep hole to hold the bottle?

Hi all, hope you are all having fun with the weather? i was wondering if any of you in the PDX area have a favorite person/shop to sharpen your leather splitter blades? mine is due and id rather have someone that knows what they are for. TIA.

if you have a harbor freight or similar look at this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=1666 if you want Kydex, look for plastic suppliers in your area. if you dont mind mail orders, the google for suppliers

if youre going to use any adhesive, read the instructions. i use wood glues for wood work and they work fine as long as you leave some between/in the joints. some of those are water proof/resistant some not. the contact cement for laminates could work better if you let the glue dry to a slight tackyness. then you need to press the parts togeather. Im not sure about using it for leather, but i dont see why it wont work. however, you will have to do some testing on your leather to find out if it will do the job. the contact cement i use are for laminates is more like syrup and although it may work, i prefer something a tad more viscous to apply to the leather. i personally use BARGE cement. Its a contact cement like/similar to the contact cements. Im not sure if there are any differences other then viscosity, but when barge is used properly, it will hold even when the leather is submerged/soaked in water. You can get a thinner for Barge too. If when i get a new can of barge and i dont like its viscosity, i will thin it with the thinner, but not too thin either since it can affect the bonding. one thing i will say tho, is which side are you glueing? if you are trying to glue the hair side of leahter, it will need to be roughed up to bond properly. also, whats the purpose of the gluing/bonding? is it to just temporarily hold parts togeather while sewing/assembling? you may just want like a rubber cement or some sewing tape. i use barge on my OIL DYES on the flesh side and have no problem with bonding as long as i use it properly. If i let the glue dry for overnight w/o attaching to the other part, the glue doesnt like to hold as well. so, again, read the instructions and use appropriately.

it may not be essential, but i would say it all depends on whats being made. the groove can protect the stitching, but again, depends on the sit.

i was thinking/hoping the same.

if youre just going to make 1 or 2 and thats it, the hole and chisel/knife is okay. but if youre going to do more of it then, get the right tool for the job. it will save you time in the long run.

if youre trying to do it on the cheap, then its the materials that will get you. as others have pointed out, you will need to make a negative of the gun and then the positive. there are alot of good ideas so far, but i personally havent priced anything. you can look into plaster of paris for a mold making material. one drawback is that the mold can get heavy and bulky. im not sure how much paper mache mix/ingredients cost, but it could be another way to make a mold. if you live in a clay rich environment, it could be outside in your yard. or maybe even the clay sculpture people use? iac, it will be fun to see what you come up with and how much $$$ you can save. btw, where are you going to get the guns for the mold?

hi, you can try to do a patient. there is a iirc several types of patients. some take mucho $$$ and there is a "simple?" patient that takes a couple thou. If youre going to do any type of patient i would get some bound blank page books and keep your ideas in them with dates, times and such. but i woudlnt waste my time unless you want to use the patient as wall paper in your den. China really doesnt give a crap about intellectual rights and if you want to fight it, you will need the $$$. even then, it wont stop it since someone else will do it again or just wait for a later date to start up. also, it doesnt make a dif on how little the item will cost either. a guy that works on sewing machines in my area showed me a thing he had patiented for use on sewing machines. iirc, it was like $12.00 he sold them for. iac, within a year, he saw chinese copies being sold for less. when he found out how much it would cost to fight it, he just let it drop. the best you can hope for is to make a crap load of them and sell them as fast as you can before they get wind of it and reverse engineer it and dump loads of them on the market. if you look at the "making leather cases" by Stolhman Volume 1, they show a thermos holder for a saddle. Its not attached to the horn, but attached to the skirt if i have my western saddle terminology correct. a long time ago, i made a breeding hobble for a guy. he wanted it washable since they get dirty. it was my own design and materials but they are not new to the breeding world. my design was made from Cordura and nylon webbing with a sheepskin liner/interior that was attached via velcro. the sheepskin could be replace/cleaned along with the rest of the hobble. the guy said that hes never seen anything like it but to me, it was just different. i think he was thinking i was going to make it out of leather. but for me, cordura would be more durable and less suspectable to rot. iac, no patient there either.

80 grit sandpaper you can use some IPA, however it wont get it all off. i just let it wear off. it will take a couple days unless you dont wash often.

welcome. i have the same issues with the leather i dye. however, what i do is to buff the leather with some old CLEAN crew type sox. its like a terrycloth on the inside and i use that side, but the other side works too. iac, i found that it seems to keep the transfer to a minimum.

hi. well, what are you trying/wanting to do with the tools/leather you have? if you can, i would be looking for some of the leathercraft books out there there are. IF you want to make things, try: > Novelity Coin Purses, by Stohlman > making Leather Cases, by Stohlman Vol 1 of 3. there are many books out there it all depends on what you want to do.