$$hobby

PC Intel Prescott P4 3.6 G ASUS MOBO P5WD2 RAM 1 G Drive1 30 G Drive2 120 G Zip 250 DVD/CD Burner MAC G4/1.25 G RAM 1 G Drive 1 60 G Drive 2 80 G DVD/CD Burner KVM (Belkin) NEC 19 monitor Apple 20 LCD Display Dymo Labelwriter 400 turbo DVD/CD Burner VST Tri Media reader HP 1200 Printer

could you give us more info on the rebel flag? material? size? is it a belt buckle?

1. i would ask him, how much does he want to spend first. 2. i would ask him, does he want it disassembled and cleaned. i would think that the damaged area isnt bad and i (personally) would leave it bag as-is. Maybe a good cleaning and maybe fix/repair some of the loose/missing stitching. my concerns are: 1. the leather maybe too far gone to "rejuvinate" it. ive only tried some "reconditions" but so far none of them have kept the leather from cracking once the leater is dryed out. 2. once you disassemble it, youre commited to fixing it and any other "hidden" damage or damage you do with your good intentions. 3 can you match the paint/dye used? i would charge him what you normally charge. btw. whatever cleaners/dyes, you use, i would test in a hidden area to make sure it wont remove/damage the existing finish. good luck.

i use flitz. ive also used Brasso at one time. there are others too.

when i first read the post, i thought it sounded fishy. i hope they delete it.

If im replacing a broke piece, i try to replace it with a better unit. I believe both Zinc and brass will break easy. If i have an SS equivalent of the Zinc, i will ask the owner if they would rather have that. For brass there isnt alot of other choices for anything better.

I think it would depend on the type of bridle used. if as in your pic, there isnt alot of places for connecting the patch. i think i would make one out of nylon/elastic webbing to go around where you would have a nose band and then try attaching it to the brow band like you show. however, im not sure i would attach to the cheek. btw, did the owners shoot the kid with the bb gun so he knew what it felt like?

i wouldnt call it a "true" bayonet for the AK or clones. It may/maynot fit and the only way to know is to buy one. I wouldnt since i could go to a local mil surp store and get a real surp for less then what they want. even local gun shows have em cheaper too. also, i dont know if i would order direct from "China" where OUR laws dont have any meaning or enforement over there. good luck and let us know what happens.

I bought these buckles several years ago for a repair job. the only problem, i had to buy 100 and i havent used any since. If you can use them, you can have them, but you will pay for shipping your choice from 97203. Here is a pic from McMaster-Carr their p/n is: 9576T61 and they want ~ $4.50/25. I have approx 90 each and they are for 3/4" wide webbing.

ive bought a couple different brands. The DS is a nice unit, but the TV Guide could be better. you can only see the guide on the channel your watching. I do like the fact that there is several hours of guide tho. The Insignia has a guide you can browse thru and see other channels, but it only shows the current show and the next hour. another thing to, is that the sound thru the DS is better/louder w/o increasing the TVs sound. one last annoying issues is the sound level with the different channels. some are fine and some are too soft. i would think that the stations would be able to put out a common signal for sound. for you people that record via VCR/DVD, you will need a separate unit to use on the recorder, unless youre watching the show you want to record.

weavers sells several different size of threads including the #69. there is also Texas Thread. If you look in your local yellow pages, you may find some upholstry supply, sewing supply and or leather shops too.

i agree w/Barra. i feel that you are providing a service to the shop. I can see if you end up taking up selling space for the projects to p/u or drop off. if the shop wont budge, there are probably others that will work w/you.

i use barge cement for the bonding. its more or less contact cement. im happy with the edge coat, but i slick my edges before i use it and it appears that it stays that way after the application.

welcome. what do you mean by "detailing"?

im not sure if anyone has responded to your request for help/tutoring. but if no one does, dont be afraid to try and learn it yourself. There are several good books out there that will give you the basics. even if you dont make holsters at first, you can learn alot just by working with the material and making simple things like knife sheaths, coin purses and such. once you get a feel for the material, working it and hand sewing it, making holsters isnt that big a leap. also, making mistakes in the beginning can happen and its all a learning process. if you have any leathershops/suppliers in your area, get several peices of scrap to practice on. Our local Leatherfactory is offering some classes on the weekends. If you have any leathershops/suppiers in your area, i would ask and even ask if they know of any classes in the area. sometimes, local community colleges will offer classes too.

commenting strictly from boot selling experience, the Horse hide is more durable then the Cow. as far as "moisture" protection is concerned, any leather boot we sold, we didnt not "guarantee" it "water proof" even when they were marked by the mfg. IMO, HOrse and Cow are were both living/breathing creature and their skin was able to "breath". So unless they have changed/modified or conditioned the hide in some manner, im not sure i would belive the better "moisture protection". fyi, i have a horse hide holster for one of my revolvers and it is well made and securely holds my gun.

i made one out of leather several years ago. I had the leather and the time to tinker so i did. I used sole leather for the T/B for rigidity. The bag ended up too small too. when i was taking alot of pic, i had 2 SLRs around my neck. I used some #10 nylon zipper and made the bag sort of like a sardine can if you know what i mean. The zipper was sit around the perimeter of the bag. It also had rounded couners so the zipper would work. I used some closed cell foam for the inside and used cordura for the lining. It also had a pocket on the front along with some "d" rings on the side for a shoulder strap and a handle on top. if you make one, make sure you have enough space for other gear.

welcome. the one expensive lesson i leared about sewing machines is that get as big as you can afford. you THINK you will only sew belts, sheaths, canvas and webbing, but how thick. YOu may think approx 1/2 now, but who knows what you will do in the future or that one project where you need that extra 1/8" btw, you should be leery of the pressor foot specs. If the mfg says 1/2", i would say 3/8~8/16". the only way is to try. also, find out what size thread it can use. i bought seveal over the years too. Like you its also "just a hobby" but a expensive one. good luck in your search.

Seattle Fabrics has that stuff and alot of other stuff. Im not sure if they will sell it as "whole sale" to you but it wouldnt hurt to ask. if you want "wholesale" prices, i would think you would have to show a "business/mfg license" to get that price. also, i would look for some Fabric "wholesalers" in your area to save on shipping.

i think the stuff comes from a plant only found in Afghanistan. I use to use spit/water to slick the edge, but i think the gum stuff works a tad better. to me if you cant get it, then water will probably do fine. im have a gallon jug of the stuff and so i dont mind using it. i think that if water works for you, then go for it. who says there is only one way to solve a problem? i use the gum by applying with a wool dauber, making sure i dont over do it and get it dripping over the edge. i then use a (clean) old sock to buff it. i think it takes less sweat then those plastic buffing tools (which i also have and used).

congrats on a nice holster. you relaize that holster will be around longer then that toy gun.

all of the holster/belts i make are 2 layers. im working on one now that is IIRC, 8/9 outside and 3/4 inside. I just like lined holsters and i think they look better and show you are willing to put a little more work into your projects to make the work/look better. the 8/9 is a tad thicker then i would like but it was all that was available at the time. the gun belts ive been making have been the same. but i usually use suede for the lining. i ve been weaving my cartridge loops from the back so its nice to have some lining to cover/protect the cartridge loop material. If you were to stitch the loops onto the hair side of the leather, then i guess a lining wouldnt be necessary. you could always make one and see how you like it.

thanks you two. however, i think the customer isnt going to like the price tag...

Hi all. do any of you know where to get a "knight horse" head conchos like used on the "have gun will travel" holster? ive checked the web, but havent found anything. TIA

Hi again, Ive been busy with another holster. I showed a friend my Duke rig and he wanted one for his High Standard. Of course its hand sewn and leather lined as the my rig and with some 22LR cartridge loops. The holster is darker since i just gave it a coat of Neatsfoot oil before the pic.