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I guess its better then giving it to the bankers/CEOs/Political friends. it would be interesting to see how it works out for you all.

they are a "retail" outlet. So good luck on getting "wholesale" prices. Maybe if you let them know youre a "leathercraft shop" they may give you a break. also, once you get them, try finding the mfg/importer/source and look for a "wholesaler".

I go to the one in Portland alot. If the one in Seattle has the same or more, then it would be a good trip. price wise, i think they are okay. what i like is that i can go down there if i need something really fast instead of MO 1 item. most of the stuff i need they have.

hi and welcome. i made a wallet for my dad, but i ended up with it.

hi and welcome

you will also need to learn how to select your hides and to know where the good/bad parts are. if youre really interested, you could always buy/find some old/broke/wornout junker saddles and dissect them. it will give you an idea on how much work it will take and how the saddle is assembled. maybe even look for some different makers too. you could also look for some schools in your area that may have leathershop/crafts. Or maybe a saddle making school. have fun.

Take a breath and slow down. You really dont say how youre making the holder and it can make a dif. Is it 1 piece around or 2 peice with front/back? are you grooving the inside corners or just bending it around the MP3? is it lined or unlined? Since youve got the leather it really helps. I would cut a strip or use some scrap ~ 3/8~1/2 wide that has the proper/same thickness and then slightly damp/wet it if youre going to try and mold it. Then wrap the peice around the MP3 and mark where they meet. but again it will depend on how your making it. then all you have to do is to measure the length or just use it as your guide. you can also mark your corners.

Getting the needle thru the back groove just comes w/experience. w/regards to the back groove, i will always make a groove on the front/back since it protects the stitching if the leater is thick enough. I specially make a point of doing it on tack. also, to each his own.

I learned/used it in college. my job out of school, i used it alot, but also along with imperial. some parts of the equipment was imperial and some metric. my last job i used it too. the machinest didnt like it, but when designing, its easier, imo.

we used glass to smooth out the molded joints on underwater FO cable. the thing is that you had to score/break the glass to get that sharp edge. another thing was that the the glass dulled fast too. we ended up bring in some glass people to instruct our operators how score/break the glass so they wouldnt injure themselves. we also had the glass company supply use with 2"x8" glass pieces so we could break off a piece at a time and use it. you could check with your local glass shops in your area and get some glass for this and maybe they will show you how to score/break w/o damaging or cutting yourself. let them know what you want to do with the glass so they can get the right stuff for you.

i got one of those Rigid oscillating spindle sander that can be converted from drum to belt and its been working fine for me. im not sure what grit was OEM, but ive been using that for now.

my local leather supplier has metal zipper by the foot. there are also other local mail order places too. i would call around or use the people on here.

i just use the english half chaps i use for a pattern and then modify to fit. i found some inexpensive ultrasuede to use as prototype material before i cut into the suede.

good luck. ive been looking for some of that elastic for several years. The only company that i know of that uses it is Ariat and im sure the mfg makes it specifically for them. ive looked at using girdle material but it doenst have the strength to it. also, you would have to dye it too. let us know what you find.

whats nice about those kits is that they will usually have all of the tools needed to do the projects and to get you started. It may also have a book(s) that will also help you too. they arent suppose to be an end-all solution so eventually you will need to branch out and get more supplies and tools when you branch out to other projects. There are alot of books out there taht will show you how to make things and even if they dont, you can ask here, or if youre willing to try, use the experience youve learned and apply it to the next project.

Im not aware of anything that would "clean" it and not attack the rubber. that gum rubber wants to draw everything to it. what i would do is get anothor or a couple more pads and keep them separate for use. or. i would try doing a test. get some food wrap (clear plastc wrap) and placing it around/over the leather and do your pressing. Im thinking the wrap may leave some witness marks, but who knows. you could make up a cheap/quick test holster to test this or use an existing boo boo.

Hi all. I have one of those 6" Heritage Splitters and noticed that the blade has dulled? recently. i noticed cuz, i usually use one side of the blade (bad habit!) and when i switched to the other side, it was cutting like it was new which of course it was since i didnt use that side until then. So, for those of you that have a splitter, do you sharpen them often? I know often is really subjective, but do you DIY or have someone do the sharpening for you. also, i was thinking that could the blade just be needed to be stroped? TIA.

I would be trotting on overthere ASAP and make some new friends. There arent many tannerys around anymore. while youre there, let them know what youre doing and youre looking to learn something. Picking hides is a thing you have to learn in the flesh (so to speak). also, if youre lucky, they may show you how to make straps out of a side and what parts are usable and what parts arent for your purposes. have fun.

i like it. once you get to wear/try and use it, you will see why holsters are made a certain way and maybe add more changes to the next. also, a holster is sort of personal in the fit/function. you maybe able to do some tweaking on the rear sight channel on this one so you will have a better idea on what to do on the next one. also, you may want to think about keeping youre rear sight covered/protected. If youre going to wear it under a jacket/coat/ect, it will keep the rear sight from snagging your clothes.

i bet you were really awake after that. nothing beats a shot of adrenalin to get things going. Fyi, locktite doesn’t hold well in heat. Its one of the methods to loosen up a fastener secured with it. Glad no one was hurt. i would also have your breaks re-bleed and those caliper/pads checked for any damage.

the size would probably be too large for your local home supply store. i would look for a tool rental place and see what theyve got in a "portable" wet saw. There are some portable saws that are like your typical skill saw. of course, it will depend on the thickness of the slab. depending on the thickness, you may have to take several passes thru it. have fun.

Looks is window dressing. its whats inside (and fixed) that counts. You should begin to think about Vista since MS has threatened to stop supporting 2k, XP in the near future. Im holding off switching to vista for another SP or more since i finally got 2k working great. Btw, If youre going to buy the "refurb", check what warrenties/guarantees comes with it. If it doesnt come with a warrenty/guarantee, i would think 2x about it. granted, nothing may go wrong w/in the warrenty period, but if it does, it would be nice to have them flip the bill instead of you. Especially since youre not PC savvy. also, find out if its a local outlet, if they will support that warrently/guarantee either that you will have to ship it back. also, if possible, i would opt for a desktop. cheaper, easier to work on and parts not as expensive. i know alot of people love laptops, but you have to consider how much are you actually using the "portabililty" aspects of the unit?

i just bought some tackle/tool boxes with the drawer type fronts.

I agree w/Twinoaks about IWB for your 629. However, since this is your first holster, it will be a good learning experince on how to make a holster and maybe why not to have an N frame revolver for IWB. IAC, you can take what youve learned and apply it to an OWB holster if you choose. I think you will find that having that N frame pressing against your bod while hiking isnt going to be confortable. however, some people have a higher tolerance for rubs/pain ect. ALso, the Hogues (if thats what you have on it) will need something between you and the Hogues. i see nothing wrong with they method you chose and your design but i wouldnt put the holster in an oven to dry. I think you will find that left indoors will dry almost overnight if not the 2nd day. also, welcome.

thats what i would do. however, if the work was something that could probably sell quick, i would probably do it. you should also figure, alot of people are "window shopping" too and until they realize/understand how much the project will cost may not have an idea and either go or drop the project. another thing too. is if you do make them anyway, you can always use the items as "demo" items on your talents/skills.