Aven

Try to find a copy of Jonathon Ervin's Leather Notebook Making Sandals Belts & Bags 1973. Ebay might have one. It will answer a lot of your questions.

ValJ, Sailrite has several videos up on youtube that might help you figure things out as far as stretch goes and construction techniques. The piping is optional. It does help to protect the seams, prevent stretching and it makes it look nice. https://www.youtube.com/user/Sailrite1

Lisa Sorrell sells a sole press. Its designed to be used with lasts, but you could cut a sandal sole shaped piece of plywood in the sizes you make. It has a small foot print so it would be eating up space in your apartment. https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/sole-press/

MtlBiker, google will show us different results than for Aaaron, it filters based on your location. So we might see three hits Aaaron might not see any. Aaaron, check out madeonjupiterleatherlab

Did you mean a Landis #1?

I like it Frodo. If this was my project I would use the resist on the brands.

I'm not setup for metal working, which is why I asked if anyone knew of another place to purchase them.

They are typically used to design shoe upper patterns and to mark the upper leathers. They are used the same way you would use dividers to mark a line parallel to an edge, without having to reset the dividers each time the allowance changes.

Does anyone know of another source for a set of seam gauges other than ZegZug? Google only finds sewing gauges when I search. Thanks

José, that is a crimping board and screws. The only place that I know of that might carry them is Sorrel Notions.

Finding one seems to be darn near impossible, so I was wondering if there is another one that has the same features as the 110W.

The machine looks like a take on a Landis 5in1. It's welt roller, a sole cutter, a heel trimmer, an edge beveller, and a skiver all in one. It cuts rubber and plastic very easily. The sole presses look like they could use a real good cleaning, but should clean up well. I just watched someone doing a YouTube restoration video on one. It was nicely done. Definitely worth a watch.

In Rachel Corry's book The Sandalmaking Workshop she recommends using Jet Set Free contact cement. I can find Jet Set contact cement, but all of my searches have come up empty for Jet Set Free. So..... Does anyone know where I can order it from in the US? Thanks

I'm sorry for your loss. I am on the other side of the pond, or else I would offer to pop over and see what treasures your father-in-law had collected. If you post pictures we will do our collective best to identify the items. In the mean time, you can search for cordwainer tools and cobbler tools to give you a bit of insight into what you have there.

You can search on Etsy for digital patterns. Look for oxford shoe pattern or lace up shoe pattern. You will find several. You'll need to find a last that is the correct size or very nearly the correct size and adjust it so that it is the correct size.

Hmmm That's interesting. My IP must be lying to you. I'm 1450 miles from Chicago.

As Fred said, knowing where you are helps. Last making is an art form itself. You can purchase ready made lasts and modify them to fit your feet. You can purchase files to 3D print them if you have a printer. You will have to modify them as well. There are several youtube videos on making bespoke shoes that go through the process of modifying lasts. But for books on making lasts, Walrus Shoes carries a book on last making as well as other books that might interest you. http://walrusshoe.com/books_pages/lasts.htm Also check out Lisa Sorrell's Notions https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/ She carries books, tools and supplies. I also recommend going through her youtube videos, especially the one on skiving.

I would suggest applique over embroidery. Lisa Sorrel has book entitled The Art of Leather Inlay and Overlay that you ought to check out is this is the direction you are thinking of going.

You are an owner of a 3in1. I'm not familiar with American Co. I do know that Landis made a similar 3in1. They also made a 5in1. They are the same, except the 5in1 has two additional functions. So if you can find information on it, you'll have what you are looking for. Search the forum for shoe tools, shoe machines, and/or Landis 3in1 or 5in1. Check YouTube for restorations. FYI, I don't think the cutter wheels for the 3 and the 5 are the same. Nor are they cheap. And in the event you find a good source of information, please share.

LOL! I do what I can. Do you have a 5in1? I really like it for setting the glued welt on a stitch down shoe. It also works a treat cutting thick, hard material.

Thanks for the heads up Mike. El Paso is just down the road from here. I'm definitely going to have to check them out. cloysleathers.com 10817 Notus Lane Suite C101, El Paso

When gluing, two thin coats are better than one thick. Apply a thin coat, allow to dry and then apply the second coat. I've made two pairs of turn shoes in Jason Horvatter's classes. One pair we sewed a piece of thick suede, to the sole of the shoe so that when the shoe was put together and turned this other piece was attached to the outside of the sole, but not along the edges. This allowed for a rubber sole to be glued and stitched. When you are sewing the two together, you sew enough so that the outer piece is secure to the shoe sole, but you have still have enough room to use a needle against the shoe without fighting too much. I hope that makes sense. You can get an anvil. Make sure you always hit flat on the top. If you wonder off on to the edge and strike, you could cut through the upper leather. If you are looking for a cheaper, quicker solution, you can cut a board to fit inside your shoes. You can pound on the bottom of your shoes or you can clamp it down. I'm a beater myself, thought I will admit to eyeing the shoe press that Lisa Sorrell has on her Sorrell Notions site. I haven't pulled the plug yet because we have move again into a smaller place so my shop is in boxes at the moment while shop space gets sorted.

Hand skiving takes a bit of practice, but it is a skill worth learning. Do a search for Lisa Sorrell Skiving Youtube. She has two, maybe three videos about skiving and skiving knives. They are well worth your time.

I went to a couple of Jason Hovatter's shoe making classes in Portland. We used a jerk needle to sew the uppers to the soles. The stitch locations were marked on both so we didn't sew the shoe together twisted. The holes in the sole were made with an awl at each mark, from the flat of the sole coming out in the middle of the edge side. Once that was done, the uppers were lined up and glued onto the sole. Backed stitched the last stitched and tied a knot. It wasn't lightening fast, but it wasn't difficult.

Frodo, you can add width, but the armholes might be uncomfortable. If you can stack the cut out patterns large, medium and small, you will see how the armhole shape changes from one size to the next. You might be able to figure out an XL and an XXL pattern from just this. But if this was me, I'd look for a denim jacket from the thrift store as a guide. A sweatshirt should work as well and will probably be cheaper. You don't have to cut them to use them, just pull the arm into the body. If you know someone that is the right size you could ask borrow a piece of outerwear use to trace a pattern. This might help. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/2463-biker-leather-patterns/ This is a painters vest pattern. Its digital so you will have to get it printed, but if they stack all the sizes on one pieces, you'll see how the armholes change. Its only $9, so cheaper than the thrift store jacket. Painters Vest