Aven

This style of shoe making is called stitch down and it doesn't require a last. You can use a last, but it isn't necessary. You can just use the pattern and match up edges or you can make the upper a bit oversized and use the wear's foot as a last and glue the upper to the sole. Since the stitching is on the outside, it can easily be done by hand. Sharon Raymond has done a a Youtube channel called Simple Shoemaking. On her channel she talks about doing stitch down vs traditional methods. Her unique approach that makes shoe making accessible to almost everyone. She has several books up on Etsy that are downloadable PDFs. In one of them she talks about making lasts out of cloth and clay.

Thanks. I'm always looking to expand my library.

Would you mind sharing the title of the books you found to be useful/relevant? Thanks.

If it is really thin, I wouldn't make any changes. If you are going to make your own pattern, get someone to help you measure your feet. Stand on a hard surface, feet shoulder width apart. Have someone slide a tailor's measuring tape under your foot at the your toe joint. Wear the socks you plan on wearing with the shoes. Make sure the tape is not pulled too tight or it's too loose. Measure your instep as well. When you do up your pattern, make sure that it agrees with the measurements.

What do you want to use for the lining?

Engblom, check out DieselpunkRO's moccasin tutorial. It might be a goodstepping stone for you before you make your Dryers. Moccasin Tutorial

Its not like I've ever done that myself. Cool. Now you've had a run through this pair should be easier and fun. You've got your pattern mostly figured out, just a couple of tweaks and you'll have one that you can use for high boots or low shoes. Other than the heel and the eyelets, you really did do a great job. The eyelets? Yeah, you're gone wanna reinforce them with another piece of leather to keep the single piece of leather from distorting and the eyelets pulling out. Look at pdf page 49, book page 43. Take your time with these. Its easy to get turned around so I suggest doing one at time, from start to finish.

If its gapping at the top, you need to do the same up there. Look on page 51 of Sharon's pdf. The pattern are curved at the heel. That's what yours should look like, smooth curves. The Velle pattern on PDF page 61, book page 55 is a better example of what I'm talking about.

There is a copy of Shoes for Free People on ebay for stupidly cheap. I would highly recommend you snatch it while you can. It's out of print and hard to find. The process is easy to follow and the shoes/boots can be made with simple hand tools. Sharon Raymond has several videos up on Youtube. They are under Simple Shoemaking. You can download PDFs of her books on etsy. Simple Ecological Shoemaking is her only one that has adult lace ups. While you are at etsy, Cheri has two books that are adult lace ups. I'm not sure of the difference, but worth checking out. They are fabric patterns, but it doesn't take much to figure out how to use leather instead. One is Oxford Shoe Sewing and the other is Boyfriend and Girlfriend Oxford Shoes. Jason Horvatter teaches classes in Portland. He's a great teacher, very knowledgeable and patient. He also has a boot DVD that will give you a great looking shoe/boot. The whole process can be done with hand tools. It just takes a bit. It you are going that route. I highly recommend you get a jerk needle, a McKay needle in a haft. It will make sewing them to the sole much easier. Jason has tool kits, but I feel that they are more than a little spendy for what you get. https://www.shoemakingschool.com

Well done. Those are more than a little respectable especially for a first attempt. Sharon has a couple of YouTube videos where she talks about drafting a pattern to fit you. They are worth the watch. If I understand your issue correctly about the heel seam bothering you, it's like it's kind of bunching up under your heel like the leather is sagging. If so then you are right a heel cap will help stabilize things. You can also cut your quarters at the heel. Shape the cut so that the bottom inch or two has a slight curve on each side of the dart. When you sew them together with a butt seam it will curve the bottom, mimicking the round shape of your heel. You don't have to cut the quarters in half, just a small curved dart out of the bottom two inches or so. Just enough to the make the leather mimic the shape of your heel. I have used sheets of craft foam (eva) to work out how wide, how tall and how much curve to cut the dart to make it to fit without using good leather. Then put a cap over that and no one will see the butt seam. Don't forget to skive the bottom edges if you put heel or toe caps on, else it might get too thick on you. Hope that makes sense.

These might be small enough for what you are doing. They are 1.5 mm. Same place Chuck sent you. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/flexcut-micro-tool-set-1-5mm-mt910

Purplefox66 I hope you are sober now and want to apologize. That was totally uncalled for. Frodo, there are a few videos on youtube about using an airbrush for dyeing leather. These are the ones that I've gone through and bookmarked for when I get around to using an airbrush. Maybe you'll find a nugget or two in there that can help sort things out for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inZcoxkuylk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h96qn66FExw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLOT1Jkq9wk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YA_cNnATi0

This isn't exactly what you are looking for, but its close. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1431200517/flared-jeans-bootcut-pants-retro-5

Sorrell Notions has summer and winter coad. The winter coad is soft and the summer coad is hard so it doesn't melt when using. It's used for sewing uppers to soles. It's also called hand wax.

327FED, if the gears aren't broken, it turns and the spring isn't frozen, its not past redemption. It'll take a fair bit of TLC and elbow grease, but I think it might surprise you. This was made back when things were made to last a lifetime. I would check it out if I were in the market for one and it wasn't too much of a drive. Its my understanding that the skiver was designed with firmer leather (veg tan) in mind. I just looked on Ebay and there are two American skivers being offered for $399 + shipping. I have a Landis 5-in-1 that I acquired about eight years ago. It has the skiver and four more actions. I thought long and hard before I parted with $850. In the end, I'm glad I did. I thought that it had gotten lost in the move so I went looking for a replacement. I saw one on Ebay that the owner wanted $1575 to part with it and it needed a bit of TLC. I'm glad I grabbed it when I did.

Did you buy small panels or sides? If you got a side or part of a side, does the whole thing look that fuzzy on the flesh side? If you have areas of tight grain, use those for the wallets. Otherwise, you can thin down the leather you are showing and glue a very thin leather to it so that you have two finished sides. Do contrasting colors for a nice effect.

If you are concerned about straps stretching out without a way to adjust them, you need to pre-stretch them and get most of the stretch out before you construct the sandal. I'm away for the holiday, when I get back I'll go through my library. I know there is another author that really goes into the process. Jonathan was the only one I could remember off the top of my head. LOL it works. We stood in a deep puddle until our boots were soak, then went for a nice stroll, aka road march. I had one pair break in like slippers and the other broke wrong and pressed on my Achilles tendon every time I took a step. That brings back such lovely memories of Fort Jackson and Tank Hill.

Try to find a copy of Jonathon Ervin's Leather Notebook Making Sandals Belts & Bags 1973. Ebay might have one. It will answer a lot of your questions.

ValJ, Sailrite has several videos up on youtube that might help you figure things out as far as stretch goes and construction techniques. The piping is optional. It does help to protect the seams, prevent stretching and it makes it look nice. https://www.youtube.com/user/Sailrite1

Lisa Sorrell sells a sole press. Its designed to be used with lasts, but you could cut a sandal sole shaped piece of plywood in the sizes you make. It has a small foot print so it would be eating up space in your apartment. https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/sole-press/

MtlBiker, google will show us different results than for Aaaron, it filters based on your location. So we might see three hits Aaaron might not see any. Aaaron, check out madeonjupiterleatherlab

Did you mean a Landis #1?

I like it Frodo. If this was my project I would use the resist on the brands.

I'm not setup for metal working, which is why I asked if anyone knew of another place to purchase them.

They are typically used to design shoe upper patterns and to mark the upper leathers. They are used the same way you would use dividers to mark a line parallel to an edge, without having to reset the dividers each time the allowance changes.