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greg gomersall

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Everything posted by greg gomersall

  1. Mike i cut myself bad bout a dozen years ago and stitched it up myself, scarred bad especialyy where all 3 stitches were, was kinda funny tho as i had customers in the shop while i was doing it. Greg
  2. Heck no. I have an 18 " International crank splitter that was made by Americans with the help of god. Why would I want a piece of Chi-Com merchandise. This Landis is just a nice splitter I acquired while in Elko last weekend. Greg
  3. Mike obviously the blade is still not sharp enough due to the fact that you only cut part way thru! peroxide will be handy for a while. Greg
  4. I have for sale a really nice 6" Landis Crank Splitter in EXCELLANT condition, origianal paint is still sharp. $650.00 Firm. Greg Splitter is located in New Plymouth, Idaho.
  5. kind of misleading to advertise them as a roping tree when they turn around and say roping is not normal use for a saddle tree when something goes wrong. Fecal matter is still fecal matter no matter how you package it. Greg
  6. Ralide builds trees they bill as roping trees but thier warrenty states subject to normal use and to them roping is not considered normal use for a saddle. Kinda hard to collect on that kind of wording. do ypurself and your horse a favor and ride bareback till you can afford something better. Greg
  7. Jon; Ben Swanke laminates his bars as well. greg
  8. Andy not sure how i missed this when you first posted it. Nice work. Greg
  9. greg gomersall

    Tools

    those look to be metal or silver smithing tools. Try Rio Grande or Indian Jewellers Supply. Greg
  10. If you are not, try tilting the angle of your entire knife back more so lees of the blade length but more of the back edge of the blade is in the leather. Greg
  11. Been building saddles full-time since 1988. Run a few cows on the side just in case I need a tax write-off from the saddle business. Greg
  12. Sorry I just saw the thread there and thought you had missed a spot. Peter is right as I had previosly pointed out to you that the last 6's produced were grey. Greg
  13. Badger you have it threaded wrong. The thread needs to run thru the staple to the right of the needle bar before it goes thru the roller at the top of the needle bar. This staple is your primary tension adjustment on the top thread. Greg
  14. find out if they are bark tanned or chrome tanned. Greg
  15. Ellis Barnes at Hackbarth. His tri weave's are a 2 piece set which you set the tri stamp and then go back over it with an undercut weave tool. The results are well worth the extra time. Greg
  16. I don't build alot of chaps but for the ones I do, I get my hides from the Hide House and always found them to maybe be more expensive than others but thier inventory was extensive and when I showed color swatches to the client the hide house would have the leather in stock. That consistantcy is worth the extra money and their service to me has always been good. Unfortuately sometimes people fall thru the cracks and it does leave a bad taste in your mouth when it happens to you. Greg
  17. Marguax the edges of a tree bar are beveled off or rounded off a hair they are not square as your theory presumes and if your padding does not conform to the shape of your horses back you need to re-examine what type of padding you are using. Also in your picture after printing it out and doing some cutting and comparission its funny how the shape used in the top drawing does not match the one on the bottom, if you are not comparing apples to apples it is not a accurate comparisson. We run into this same type of thing with people who seem to think that in order to get the fork and horn sitting closer to the horses back that the gullet needs to be widened to allow everything to sit lower when in reality what they need to do is have the fork made lower in the gullet to achieve this, with the primary gullet height measurement being the back at the handhole not the front lip. This whole thing can get quite complicated and for years we have been looking at it in the wrong way due to articles and information that has been passed down that was flawed to begin with. Greg
  18. I think this is an Urban Legend. It would have more to do with the tanning process and the type of leather than the color, using the Vinagroon method there would be no dye involved so then your theory no longer exists. Greg
  19. I find the Hermann Oak a little harder to work with. Firmer denser hides make for harder cutting and needs to be cased properly to work nice but the results are worth it as I feel I end up with a crisper carve or stamp job when finished and the denser leather will last longer with proper care. Greg
  20. Margaux the reason you do not have to take the leather sheepskin and padding into the equation of wether or not the bare tree fits is that the angles do not change when you add them. If a 90 degree bar tree fits your horse properly as a bare tree then it will fit your horse properly covered. Yes the leather narrows it up a little all the way along the bottom side But it also raises it up the same amount at the same time so Your Angles Stay The Same. Over padding will ruin this fit but adequete padding will not. Hope this helps. Greg
  21. Steve I agree with you , as i said early in this thread the skirt edges need to be able to move independently of each other. Somehow Bob has my name listed as someone who doesn't think this could be the problem. Greg
  22. Bob I will whole heartedly disagree with your take on neoprene pads being in any way useful with regards to a horse. you want padding that will wick the sweat away from the horses back not pads that trap heat to cause sweating. You live in a warm climate, try wrapping yourself in neoprene and going for a jog. Just my take on this. Greg
  23. you can also buy pre wound bobbins by the box full, never have to wind one just drop a new one in Greg
  24. Contact Bob douglas in Sheridan Wy. He will have old osborne, mcmillan, and gomph overstitch markers as well as stitch markers you are looking for. Greg
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