greg gomersall

Barra hope you had a good day and a little o/p bundie. Greg

Thats a tough one Steve. On the deposit thing I take 600.00 up front when they order and then get 600 more when I am ready to start work on the saddle (more if there is silver involved). Generaly at this point if they can't come up with the second deposit I just set thier order aside and work on the next one. I just had a gentleman pick up a saddle last week that he ordered 8 years ago. I finished one for him in 2002 and he never picked it up. After waiting 4 months I sold it, he finaly contacted another 3 months later and when he found out his saddle had been sold he wanted his deposits back. When I informed him deposits were non refundable he got kind of cranky but I did tell him that if he ever got to where he could get one made I would put his deposit towards a new order. He got his act together in 07 and we built him a new rig this fall. Cost him alot more than the first one would have but he was sure happy with his new rig. Inform you client they have 30 days to pay for thier rig or you will sell it, but include the option of putting thier deposit towards a rig in the future as long as it is for a similar full carved saddle. Your base price will increase along with your options so you will get more from them next time if they come back anyways. I hope it doesn't take too long to sell and if you have to lose any money on the selling price make sure that reflects against what kind of credit you carry forward towards a future order with this individual. Good luck greg

Hey Sam Who cloned Cliff.

Mike not sure what year the changes took place, mine is tan with brown trim and it is quite different than the newest ones as well. the price you are getting yours for is a bargain and the Pfaff are indestructable. you can rest assured yours is a german made model. greg

The 1245 pfaff is an awesome machine. It is what is refered to as a High-Lift machine (takes 190 needle system) the 1000.00 price is very fair as they are over 2500.00 new. You can sew 14 to 16 oz no problem on this machine. I run 138 on top and 92 on bottom on mine and coulb bump it up to 207/138 if I needed to. I sew all my belt, chaps headstalls etc on mine. The Juki brand is a good brand as well but Pfaff is the top of the line. Greg

#9. greg

Brent they do go over the bar twice. The current computer configuration i have does not let me scan things but PM me your address and i will send you a drawing. greg

2.79 today in western idaho

Troy do you tool the binding on the roll after you have sewed it or do you fit it, take it off to tool then put on. Thanks Greg

Try and find some pictures of some old S. Loomis or some early Main & Winchester saddles from the west coast. Back in the 1860-1870 era this type of set up was quite comman. If you measure your inseam versus your fender and stirrup leather length properly you don't need much adjustment. The fender does not need to come back to the cantle point but it does need come up on the edge of the seat a hair. Half leathers attach to the top of the fender, full leathers run the full length of the fender under the fender. Half double's run the full length of the fender on top of the fender and full double's actualy start at the bottom of the fender go around up the back under the bar out over the fender back around under the bar and the come out down and attach to the fender at the top, Not real comman antmore but still seen from time to time on some real classy rigs. You can also cut the fender and stirrup leather from one piece of leather. Hope this helps. Greg

If you are gonna build a half seat saddle with no seat jockey as pictured you are gonna want the tops of the fenders to come right up to the seat edge. On the fenders no loops or anything will be required. That is a basic set of half double stirrup leathers in all other aspects. Greg

Randy as was mentioned in the link call Caledon Sales in Calgary at 403 252 0232 and get a couple pieces of apron split and build an apron from it. your customers will be so happy with this stuff you will have them hooked for life. Ken can mail this to you , there are no customs or import hassles and he can be paid with a credit card. its worth the phone call. Greg

Myriam I made a mistake earlier when I said it was a K3 Visa, I should of said K1 Visa. I am assuming you have this in place. If you show up at the border without a visa they will deny you entry even if you have a wedding scheduled. Greg

If you have all your paperwork approved and in order it is a real simple crossing. When I crossed I had all my personal effects plus all my shop equipment.. Approx.25 various firearms , they compared serial #'s on 3 guns to the paperwork and decided everything thing was in order stamped my passport and sent me on my way. I was there less than 30 minutes. that was two weeks before sept 11. I'm sure if I had been imediately after I might have been there a couple days. Rest easy if everything is in place is is a real simple crossing. Goodluck Greg

Myriam I came to the US from Canada 7 years ago on a K3 Visa (fiance marrige visa). Brought my shop with me and the leather was of no concern. If you are bringing firearms you need an export permit from the canadian gov't and import papers from ATF in Washington as well. Greg

that is a narrow throat/ peerless / 30. Greg

JW I use skirting from elsewhere in the hide to linemine. 20 years ago I worked in a shop where we lined them with latigo and I wasn't real impressed, What is your customer gonna think the first time it gets wet if the latigo bleeds on the skirting and they have an ugly red stain seeping out on the skirts around the rigging? greg

Check into the design that Bob douglas makes as well. In my opinion you get a better set on your fenders with Bob's design. As for the handle you do not even need one. anything you can get ahold of to turn will work just fine. I have a pulley about 4" in dia. on mine and can turn it just fine. Greg

Karl they make one that bolts to the left side as well. I have one of each. Greg

Karl they had a needle steady for each size of needle. they had an inside as well as an outside rollar guide plus the round rein attachment as DJ mentioned. Greg

That is a fairly high #. The highest I know of is in the very low 12,000 range. I would agree that is a replacement flywheel but if you painted it, pinstriped it and replaced the handle it would look good. The one I use every day is # 7489. Ther were several changes and modifications done along the way but very little changed from my machine to yours. the biggest change was in the early 30's the low 11,000 # range when they went to what they referred to as the "positive drive" feature. On these models the stitch lenghth was adjusted on the rear of the machine and the stitch advance arm travelled in a track instead of being held against the cam with a spring. In 1899 Pearson& Benyon were purchased along with two other English companies by United Shoe Machine of Boston Mass. The new company was named British United Shoe Machine so any machines with the BUSMC label are after that date. I can't remeber exactly what serial # they were at then but it was the very high 4,000 or very low 5,000 range. I will check my notes when I am in the shop and see if I can get it a little closer than that. Greg

Karl the serial # will be on the top of the head by the needle bar. It will be a 4 digit or possibly a 5 digit sequence. I do not have a spare wax pot but i will check around. The serial # is also just to the right of the handle on the flywheel. That handle can easily be replaced with a wooden style one as it just threads into the flywheel. Arron Martin makes a new stand for these, it is a plain stand no treadle assembly but real easy to attach a motor to. One of the Servo motors would work real nice on these machines. Greg

Depending on the seriel # on your pearson it could be the original flywheel. Both the real early models as well as the last ones made had a plain flywheel with no lettering. the machines made for North America had two rows of lettering on the flywheel while the ones which stayed in England or were shipped elsewhere in the world had one row of lettering. I know where there is a flywheel here in the US but the guy is using it for another purpose, I will check and see if he will part with it. The chance of finding a treadle stand is slim but not impossible, I did buy one from a guy a couple years ago but due to the fact that a lot of these machines were sold as a head only the odds of finding a stand are slim. They had two different stands on the 6 as approx. 1900 they came out with what they refered to as the new improved stand and these stands are interchangable between heads. If you are needing other parts let me know and I'll rumage thru my spares. Greg

Mc Millan Tools in Missouri will build you an enbossing wheel and also make matching stamps for you so you can finish out the tips excetra to look proper by hand. greg

Heck i have as much us for rock an roll as I do for commie's but a good ticket would be Ted Nuggent/ Newt Gingrich ted understands the second admendment and Newt understands history and it will repeat itself. Greg