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Everything posted by Art
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Replacement Bulb for Artisan Halogen Sewing Lamp
Art replied to esantoro's topic in Hardware and Accessories
Hi Ed, You need the MR11, the 16 may be too big. They make the MR11s from 5 to 35 watts in varying beam spreads and also in dichroic coated (sometimes called gallery quality). They come with and without glass, the dichroic usually are without. Note that you need to check your power supply to make sure it can continuously supply the wattage of the bulb or you will toast the supply xformer. Also, I had problems with the light cord backing out of the power supply a little and causing the light not to work, the place where it plugs into the supply is a little loose, tape fixed that. Dichroic isn't that necessary for sewing as color definition isn't needed there and the bulbs are two or three times more expensive. You can buy bulbs here: http://www.1000bulbs.com/Open-Face,-12-Vol...en-Light-Bulbs/ Art -
Hi Curt, ZZ is not used much in the leathercraft world as stretch and bias are not in the hide dictionary. Also ZZ machines do not generally have needle feed although I have seen some with walking feet or something similar. If you have difficult or multi layer material to feed the needle feed is necessary. The LSZ-1 can always be run in straight mode and works like any other small walking foot machine. The ZZ is good if you are doing any sail repairs. Art
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Hi Dux, Pretty sure it will. The holsters for the 58 rem or the Ruger Old Army are close enough, you want to design something that it will ride "deep" in. If you try to make a "high riding" or "gunfighter" holster where the TG is exposed, the 5 1/2" ones will tend to come out of the holster on their own (at the darnedest time) because they cam around that webbing under the bbl. The 7 1/2" bbl models are a little better in that respect but still a little loose. Of course if it is for gunfighting, this is what you want. Art
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There are leather feet for the Sailrite, and you can file and buff any real sharp edges from the dogs. Also, loosen the presser foot tension a bit. Give Sailrite a call, they are easy to work with. Art
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Go to the site you want to post a link of and copy the url for that site (the thing with http: in it at the top of the browser. Come back to leatherworker.net and while typing your post at the point you want the link to appear, press the button under the F in the Fonts drop down box. A box will appear asking you what url and it will be starting with http, highlight this and paste the url you had copied previously in that box, hit ok and the next box will ask what you want to call it, say here and hit ok and it will put a line of html code in your post to make something like this here (which points to a Google website). Art
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Hi Corter, Used Pfaff 545, Consew 206RB3, Singer 111W155, or if you need a smaller machine, a Sailrite LS-1 machine goes for around $650 new, cheaper if you buy one of it's cousins which are not finished as well but still capable for small stuff. We have a few folks here that use the Sailrite type machine for their work and it IS small and portable and probably just right for wallets. Check here for the Sailrite, Consew, and Reliable models (there are two base machines straight and zigzag, the differences are in the finish and the accessories on board). Art
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Hi Russ, There are three different entities here, patent, copyright, trademark; all totally different and used to protect different things in different ways. It would be easier to tell us what you want to "knock off", and then we could tell you either why you can't do it, or how you can get around it, or that it isn't a problem. Patent and trademark are pretty well defined, copyright is an area that is sometimes used to protect a product and can be a little tricky. A more defined area is fraud, where you make something and say that is something else, e.g. if you make something that looks like a Hermes bag (to any degree of success) and say it is a Hermes bag, then that is fraud, whereas you make something that looks like a Hermes bag and say it is a Hermes knockoff, then that may be a copyright violation, whereas you make a bag that may or may not look like a Hermes bag but you never get their name into the process, well that is probably ok. If someone asks you if it is a Hermes bag, you say NO or "no, it is better than a Hermes bag", again you will probably be ok. There were enough "whereas" in the above statement to help you understand that if you go about playing in a big company's sandbox, a bunch of lawyers are going to try and kick sand in your face. Some things you just can't help copying because there are only so many ways to invent the wheel, but put some of yourself into the process. Art
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Hi Corter, First consideration should be if you need a cylinder arm machine for your work. There is a greater selection available in flat bed machines. The next consideration is machine size, and you have specified 4-5 layers of 4-5oz which means 25oz of something, so you need a machine that will sew 3/8" or about 11mm. So, Consew 206RB-3, 4, 5, Pfaff 545, Artisan 618, Artisan 797, Ferdco 1245, Pfaff 1245, Singer 111, Singer 211, there are just a slew of machines new and used out there that will fill that purpose. In my opinion, the Singer 15 really isn't in that class. We have covered a bunch of machines on this forum and a bit of reading will get you a wealth of information. Used machines can be a little problem if you are not a little bit machine savvy or mechanically oriented. I usually recommend that the first machine be purchased new from a reputable dealer, and I don't mean the corner sewing store. Industrial machines are very different from what is sold today for home use, most "older" sewing machine mechanics can handle them, but there is someone around to help. Ebay is not the best place to purchase a sewing machine, new or used, as they work pretty much in sell it and forget it mode. There are a few sellers who are established stores (brick and mortar) who are ok, Raphael and Atlantic to name some. Look for a good industrial machine, it will last you forever. Art
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Hi Ryan, After a little research and a few phone calls, the machine is a ZZ, bottom feed with puller, here are some specs: Thread capability: 92 - 207. Sewing speed: 1000 SPM.*Subject to sewing conditions. Needle type/size: 7X23 / 7X3 / 1000 class 140 - 250 High speed seaming, 12mm 3-step ZZ Sewing capability: 25mm thickness IE Maxi corners Bobbin size: diameter 35mm x 14mm Foot-lift: 30mm Puller-lift: 75mm *Pneumatic foot pressure *Reverse, manual reverse button *Automatic foot and puller lift *Puller-feed disable switch *Needle cooling, the needle cooler is governed by the operator foot pedal and only on when sewing is commenced *EFKA DC1550/AB321 motor, needle positioning and variable speed control. Puller feed. Top and bottom driven. 70mm wide rollers, Puller lift: 75 mm - Disable switch equipped. The top roller feed rate is adjusted by a lever For easy change with a range from minimum to maximum to suit all applications. This is not for real leather machine users, just a item of interest for the machine nuts: These things are manufactured by John Cordes in Australia for the Sail Industry. I have a power point presentation that I can email if someone wants it (PM me with your email addy). Art
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Bee Natural
Art replied to hiloboy's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Leather hues are ok, they are not the same rugged nature as Fiebing's oil or spirit dyes. When they first came out I did a fastness test. I buffed a piece finished with leather hue on a 12" loose wheel 3600 rpm Baldor buffer (1hp) for about 2 1/2 minutes before the color started to fade. The Fiebing's pro dye lasted over 3 minutes so I stopped. I don't know if this is a fair test. I subsequently made a little holster for my cellphone and dyed it with mahogany leather hue. I have worn it every day for about three years and the finish is still ok, I occasionally, well I once put a little Leather Balm with Atom Wax on it (at least a year ago) the color is not wearing off. The cellphone and the case are really a hard test as they bump into everything and have seat belts, furniture, and other things rubbing them all the time. The buffer test was a little too destructive I think, and not a good indicator or normal use. I use Fiebing's pro and spirit dyes because I modify them and mix them and know how to use them, so even though I have the leather hues, I don't use them that much. I do however use the Bee Natural #1 Saddle Oil, RTC, Leather Finish, and a cleaner called Leather Amore. They work fine and transport without placards. I also use products by Montana Pitchblend, Pecard's, and Murphy's Oil Soap. Murphy's is good because you can usually get it at ACE Hardware. I used Tandy's One Step and found it reminiscent of wood staining gels and really heavy in color, but durable. I'm not sure that product is in their new "eco friendly" lineup anymore. It is all a matter of what you get used to using, if leather hues are what you can get, then they are what you use. If you use them all the time, you will learn what you can and can't do with them and they will become part of your toolkit. Art -
Hi Ryan, I think the Chinese way of doing business will pretty much confuse any Westerner. That is why it is important to have a knowledgeable and stable importer. On a second item, do you know the make and model of this monster, it is 350mm high by 900mm throat, you can just about put a 366 head in the arch. Thanks, Art
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Hi Ed, I object to them calling it a sharpener, but am at a loss as to what else they could have called it other than edge truer. They will generally straighten the edge like a steel will, but on a good hard knife that is really dull, you can use that thing all day and not get very far. I have seen ones made from carbide tool bits that will sharpen a bit, but they have one set angle and it helps if the blade was originally set to that angle, if not, it can take a really good edge OFF the blade. If you have a dull softer blade, try it. Most punches aren't hardened over HRC 50 so that thing might work if it is small enough to get on the edge. I guess it depends on what your definition of "sharp" is. Art
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Hi Johanna, Wade is right, however I had been working on the 2009 budget all day. Art
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Hi All, There is the new June 2008 version of Stitches magazine available on the Artisan website. http://www.artisansew.com/manualsfiles/Sti...20June%2008.pdf There is a profile of the Powered 20" splitter (a lot like the old Randall), and the 618 SC-1 LTHR medium weight sewing machine. Steve also gives us a little tutorial on thread tension. As usual, Anne did a great job. Art
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Hi Ryan, I don't quite understand how Baojia has a patent on the 366, they copied it from Adler. Nevertheless, will the Adler parts fit in your castings? This would be a good thing as it is pretty easy to get Adler parts (other than the bank loan for purchase). The Adler 366s are pretty much a mainstay in the sail industry and are getting killed by the Euro vs. Dollar thing, although Global is doing well with their cam driven models. A good, less expensive alternative might have some traction in that market. The short arm version of the Global (ZZ-568) does well also and you have a model SM-568 that appears identical. This might be an opportunity for Cowboy as I have not seen any Sailmaster machines in the area. Then again, it is a pretty small market, but so is the leatherworking industry. Art
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Hello Ryan, Your SM 366-76-12HA machine that you market under the Sailmaster name is the same machine that Baojia markets as the BJ 366-76-12HA. It looks identical. If yours is significantly different, why use their numbers? Ditto the CB0318, a spitting image of a Highlead. I am going to have to take you at your word that your machines are different. Does Cowboy have an ISO-9002 certification? I know China is the penultimate world of knockoffs, even amongst themselves, however this is not a bad thing (by their standards of business), but it is looked on skeptically here. Personally, I don't have a problem with it as long as the quality remains high and there are no patent problems. This is why I specify ISO-9002 manufacturers, it just shows the company is committed to the quality principal. In the last 15 years Chinese (mainland) castings have gone from remarkably so-so to actually very acceptable, right up there with Taiwan, paint has improved also. Give me an American casting any day, German and Italian next, but China is not only improving, they have arrived and produce an acceptable product. The parts inside sewing machines, especially low run number industrial ones, can and do come from every and any corner of the world. This is another reason to copy existing designs, there are just more high quality parts available. While we are discussing how things have changed, we should discuss motors. I have a couple of Chinese (mainland) motors from around 15 years ago. These things were truly a study in ancient motor design, I'm sure Tesla had something to do with them, they had mechanical phase changers (to lead the phase in the starting process) and other old stuff that a modern engineering grad wouldn't have a clue to what was going on (thank God I'm old), but they did work. The new stuff is very modern and in my use pretty reliable, like most electrical equipment, if you have a problem it will happen early and it is usually a complete failure. What does all this mean? From a manufacturing standpoint, China has arrived, actually they have been here for about 10 or so years. I'm sure you can find Chinese crap out there, but generally these companies don't survive. In prior times, you bought Chinese gear to fill a slot on a line with the knowledge it would likely need replacing in a year or two, maybe less. This is an acceptable strategy for some startups. Now you can buy Chinese machines that can be expected to last for a decade or two or three. So I don't buy it that Chinese machines are junk anymore, but I definitely want to know who made them. I have a Highlead (or 3) that I have tortured making specialized blankets and pads, sewing nasty fabric like Nomex, Kevlar, carbon fiber, asbestos, and turnout cloth. I have been all over the Highlead machines looking for wear and have not found it, if it would have occurred, that application would have done it. I have also worked with the Baojia machines in a sailmaking setting, these machines are used heavily and in the zigzag mode a lot and here again, not much in the wear category. All the big machines, Highlead and Baojia were direct drive (no speed reducers) with 3/4 and 1hp clutch motors, so these machines were not treated daintily. So I know Highlead/Artisan and Baojia make decent machines. I purchased a Juki based Ferdco and a Taiwan based Ferdco 2000 from a manufacturer. These machines were about 10-15 years old when I bought them and had been in daily production for years (webbing and leather). These machines were in very good shape mechanically, the Taiwan model needed paint, and the Juki was very dirty, but these machines cleaned-up well and didn't need anything except new motors (they were 3 phase). So we can also add Juki and whoever in Taiwan made the other one, but ultimately Ferdco to the list. I have no affiliation with Singer, Pfaff, Adler, Artisan, Ferdco, Baojia, or any other equipment maker, and opinions are based on using and abusing, maintaining and repairing these machines, and yes, I do buy oil by the 5 gallon pail. If anyone else is unaffiliated and in a production setting, has bought a machine out of a production environment, or has any way to observe machines that are heavily used, your experiences would be a helpful addition to our knowledge here. Art
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Hi Johanna, My daughter is a Ceramic Artist (BFA Alfred). According to her, ceramic artists use (and have used) anything readily available and the least bit unique to decorate. The pattern you see is decoration and probably has no real meaning, it is not a maker's mark. It could be made by anything from a small piece of bamboo with notches cut in it to a wooden or brass gear or cog or something whittled out of a twig or dowel. Ada says she has even used bird feet. As a resource it was suggested that the archaeologist contact: Scholes Library New York State College of Ceramics at Alfred University Carla Johnson 607-871-2494 http://scholes.alfred.edu/ or any of the Ceramic Art Faculty at the NYS College of Ceramics at Alfred Wayne Higby John Gill Andrea Gill Linda Sikora Anne Currier Walter McConnell 607-871-2441 The Schein-Joseph International Museum of Ceramic Art at Alfred houses nearly 8,000 ceramic and glass objects, ranging from small pottery shards recovered from ancient civilizations to contemporary sculpture and installation pieces to advanced ceramics reflecting the cutting edge of ceramic technology. This is another resource available to her. The Alfred website is: http://www.alfred.edu As with most university websites it is a real pain to navigate. Scholes is at: http://scholes.alfred.edu There is more than enough here to keep her busy for a few days. Art
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Head Knife Clicker Knife for tight curves Scalpel and when all else fails, the utility knife. Art
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Hi Jim, I really don't care where they are made either, although with sub-Saharan Africa, I would suspect quality control. I expect ISO-9002 as the least level of commitment to quality. It does concern me when you say you are making something and I can clearly see that someone else made it. This leads me to think, what else is he saying that maybe I should question? Cultures are different, and the Chinese really are a case for the trust but verify doctrine. Hence the wish for ISO-9002, at least it is a start. So I guess I am really saying, YES, I do care where the machines are made, as that is a primary indicator of their quality. I am a lot like Paul Harvey, I want the full story, or at least the rest of the story, and most importantly the STRAIGHT story. With Artisan and Ferdco, and others too, it has never been "this is it take it or leave it". First Ferdco, then Artisan built their business' on listening to and serving customers; they still do. Pfaff and Adler will make you whatever you want to do whatever you want, but it will not be cheap....inexpensive either. To imply that Cowboy is a company that will FINALLY listen to leatherworkers is well, basically not true. You can get feet and plates from Ferdco for things most of us don't care or even know about and they seem to fit anything remotely resembling a 441. If you have an application that is truly out in left field, they'll have to make it for you and again it won't be inexpensive. Campbell-Bosworth will make parts for my Campbell for any application I need. These folks are out here serving us now and it is not like there has been some gaping hole in the sewing machine industry that Cowboy is just now filling. However, bringing new blood into this market segment is most always a good thing and none of us think it is bad to have another good machine to look at when making a purchase. Art
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Hi Ray, For me, the deadblow hammer doesn't have the mass I need. Maybe it is that I just can't find a big enough one, two pound ones are positively whimpy; don't give a percussive impact but more of a kiss-your-sister kind of swat. I have a 96oz Barry King maul that does the trick for my makers stamp and for some cutting and punching. It is way too heavy for tooling. I use a 16oz King or Peters maul for tooling and setting small things like eyelets and glove snaps. I use a 2lb Maul Master for setting things like big snaps and punching small holes although the 96oz BK works wonders on big bag and trace punches. A big maul can reduce bounce quite a bit, but I think overall an immovable object like a big surface plate or an anvil does more to eliminate bounce or double-strikes. Art
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Hello Bill, Your Sailmaster SM 366-76-12HA is apparently built by a company in the city of Wujiang in Jiangsu province called: Suzhou Wanping Sewing Equipment Co., Ltd. Their brand name is BAOJIA and I have seen and worked on one of their machines at a major sailmaker here in Annapolis. The machine Ryan is sitting at on your website is a GA2688-1 which is made in the Shanghai Huigong No.3 Sewing Machine Factory (I have two of these, they are a great machine). That company's brand name is Highlead, and they also rebrand for others including Cowboy and Artisan. The Cowboy CB 0318 is indeed a Huigong No.3 machine also, the GC0318. I guess I just need some clarification on "Now we build leather sewing machines by ourselves, sail making machines as well!". None of this is much of a problem IF the machine is good, AND IF two and two add up to four. If both parts aren't present, then confidence will not be high. Art
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Hi Penske, I don't have any connections in Mexico, however, CUT & SEW SERVICES 1320 W. El Segundo Blvd. Gardena Ca. 90247 TEL: 310-538-2008 should be out your way. I think the Singer 45K shuttle hook is the exact same thing as the Adler 104/105 and should fit. Check with Cut & Sew. Also the C&S part number is 98622 and is about $30, probably $10 to ship it to you. Art
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Hi Shirley, Put them up in marketplace here on leatherworker.net with a Dollar figure and see what happens. There are a lot of folks here that appreciate your work. Art
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Hi Greg, I know the Campbell was available (lease) around 1884. I have not been able to find Randall mentioned 'till after that date. You could at that time make quite a bit more money leasing/renting equipment in the shoe/leather trade as was proven by USMC who was the 'king' of that business model, they made the real money bundling the lease/maintenance and you also had to buy all your supplies (thread needles etc) from them. This was the dominant business model for the majority of the late 19th and early/mid 20th centuries. They were just using the successful model that other biggies like IBM and NCR made a fortune with. When the courts rejected this in the 1970s, it all stopped, but it was a helluva ride while it lasted, way past 8 seconds I'd say. Art
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Hi Keith, The Campbell was in use in the late 1800s, whereas the Landis #3 was brought out around 1911. The #3 was different than the Campbell in that it had a 11-11 1/2 inch throat to the Campbell's 9, also Landis made some modifications of the Campbell jump foot system which were a definite plus. I also believe the Randall is a clone of the Campbell (datewise anyway). Most of this history I gleaned from an article by Harry Shonteff who is kind of an authority on these things. I have also done some inadvertent research (in other words I got sidetracked while researching something else) into production numbers and have found the Campbell was in production quite early, the others showing-up only after the 16 year patent hiatus. I have had a #3 for a while and didn't have any problems understanding it as I had a Campbell already. Like I said, I liked their jump foot system better. To date, I don't think there is a definitive book or work on these machines. I can't imagine there ever will be as at best it would probably sell about 1000 copies, probably far less; this is unfortunate as these old needle and awl machines were the finest leather sewing machines ever produced and there should be something out there chronicling them. Art P.S. There is a difference between clone and copy (in my mind of course). The Randall is a clone of the Campbell, it is for the most part identical. A copy has technology copied or incorporated prior technology in a newer product, even though upgrades and improvements (even new patents) may be made also. If we were not allowed to copy patents that have run, technology would not advance at the rate it has.