Art

High PW, If a lot of stuff is over your head, please stop us and ask what the heck we are talking about. The nomenclature of sewing machines is something we all have to learn, and when we talk specifics, well, we just have to get specific. It is a lot easier to say "shuttle shim" than "the thingie that goes behind the shuttle to adjust the needle/hook clearance". OK, so judging by some of your other posts, you will be using 8-9oz leather to do bag work, among other things. This kind of work is right at the top range of a medium duty machine like the Highlead GC22618, Artisan 2618-1B, Pfaff 345, etc. These are all cylinder arm machines which will make it easier to sew gussets into bags, I'm not saying you can't do it with a flat bed machine, but life is easier in bag world with a cylinder arm. If you want to put a welt in something at this thickness, it adds another 3-4oz to your sandwich and you might have to make a few adjustments as you are right at the top of the range. An advantage to these machines is "cheap feet", well not for the Pfaff, but the Highlead and Artisan machines use 111 feet which are plentiful. The next step up is the Juki 441/Adler 206 class machines which can handle most anything or adjusted to handle almost anything. Keep in mind that Industrial (not "Industrial Strength") sewing machines can be adjusted or modified to sew darned near anything, but are "happiest" doing what they were designed to do, which may be a narrow range as most of the industrial sewing machines are designed and adjusted to do one thing all day every day and not really for "general" sewing. About "Chinese" machines. Taiwan or Mainland, the Chinese are turning out pretty good machines from the "Notable Trademark" ISO factories. Whatever you buy, you need to trace it back to the factory it was made and hopefully engineered in. This might require several "hops" because there are a lot of companies doing consolidation (taking product from several factories and marketing them under one name), e.g. SunSew, and then companies over here doing that same thing. Some Chinese factories are good enough to be making machines for prominent Japanese companies, this does say something for quality, a lot of Consew and Mitsubishi machines are made in Mainland China factories. About German machines. Pfaff and Adler are truly the best machines around. I will only ever own a used one as I can't afford a new one. Parts aren't inexpensive either, but they seldom need replacing. They are also like American cars in that you can get almost any option known to man to make them truly unique, or fill a desired place on your production line. About money. Dollar is not doing well against the Euro, bad for us when buying German Iron. The Chinese currency is linked somewhat to the Dollar and this is good for us. However they are having a little inflationary spiral over there and their energy is costing more so things have been and will be going up on Chinese machines too. This can be good and bad. As the economy suffers some downturn, there will be a slowdown here in machine sales which may cause prices to go down after going up from the Chinese inflation. This kind of deflationary trend may or may not happen but could. Then again the prices might go up and keep going up. You really need a good crystal ball for this. None of this is good for the guys who sell these machines. They might have a couple of lean years. About the used market. Eyes open, ears up, there are going to be some really great deals out there in the coming months. As money tightens, cash will rule in these markets. A little mechanical and sewing machine knowledge, and ability to evaluate the condition of a machine will pay off with great deals; buy the machine you need for yourself, don't try to be a dealer and resell it unless you really know what you are doing, there was a reason you got it for that good price. Now it's your turn PW, ask us some questions. Art

Hi Paul, What you need is a welting foot with a cutaway back, this will make it easier to turn corners while keeping the welt in the tunnel of the foot. Contact Neel for the correct foot, and nipping the seam edge like barra says will help also. Most upholstery 101 books also give a good description of the process under the "making cushions" section. Art

Hi Skip, The "S" point type is a "standard" or "straight" or "spear" point. It has a lens type shape running in the direction of the stitch. Good point for nice straight stitch lines. The "D" point type is more or a Triangle shape with one foot running in the direction of the stitch line. If you look closely, you can see that it is created by three facets instead of the elliptical sides of the "S". This "D" point also sews a straight stitch line which may have a little more "room" and sew a little easier in harder leather. For most purposes, they seem to give similar results. Art

Hi Rickey, It is more like neatsfoot than Tan Kote. No need to kill any virgins (they're getting to be an endangered species around here), just regular olive oil works. Some folks say it will go rancid over time and as it is not hydrated, it is less stable than other oils, but I have done a few things with it and can't say I have noticed a difference. I have used neatsfoot quite a bit, but it varies so much from product to product that I went to #1 saddle oil or Pecard's or Aussie or Montana Pitchblend, the first two being what I use the most. Bag Kote (or Tan Kote for a little more shine) also work great for top finishes. For 19th century period correct finishes, Dubbin would be the preferred product, but current formulations are heavily mineral oil based, so I tend to use Montana Pitchblend or Neatsfoot which are more natural. Art

So, the next time I ordered from Harbor Freight I put four of these knives on the order. I just received the order yesterday. The first thing I noticed was the Pakistan Label. I have been in the knife business (seller, maker, importer, collector) since about 1984, and remember ordering a container of Pakistan knives for about what Earl Scheib got for a good paint job, and at $9, I was a little skeptical. Finish is good for the price. These knives (I got more than one) were capable, out of the box, of creasing veg tanned leather. They kind of have a teardrop (convex) edge which is not fragile, but however not sharp. I took a soft Arkansas stone and sharpened the edge on the blade, then followed that with the hard Arkansas. This was done in a remarkably short period of time. I then tried to slack belt the other to put a convex edge on it. The second it hit the grinder I suspected the steel, so I tested it for hardness. Hardness out of the box on the two remaining blades was 40.5 HRC. So I tested the tester with a 45.5 HRC standard and the machine was right on. So I tested all 4 blades and they are all around 40-41 HRC. So that pretty much says it all, you get what you pay for, however for a $9 knife it isn't bad. It doesn't hold an edge as long as a $100 blade, but it is only 1/10 th the price, you'll sharpen it more, but a 40 HRC you probably never break it, bend it maybe. As with most Harbor Freight stuff, I find it usable, not the highest quality, but usable, and the price was right. Your Mileage May Vary. Art

First thing, the 29 in any flavor is not going to sew 1/2 inch material well. I have never tried so I don't know for sure if it can be modified. The price however is very good for that machine. I would find a local shoe repairer and get his opinion of how to do that job. Half-inch is considerable thickness and those machines weren't made for it. Art

Hi Mike, Mt Hope is about 70 miles south of Cleveland, If I said New Hope, my bad, totally different place. Art

Hi Mike, Probably not. The 99 is a great machine for lightweight sails, it will sew zigzag. It is a little wimpy for storm sails or the tack on big jibs. Other than garment leather and 6oz total, maybe 10oz pushing it. For small projects it will work, but if price is the thing here you can get a Tacsew T111-155 for around $750 new, it will sew rings around the Consew 99, but won't do zigzag ever. Art

Hi Ed, The term "dichroic" applies to GE MR16 lamps specifically, not in general to low-voltage halogen lighting. For the GE MR16 lamp, dichroic describes the type of coating on the reflectors. These coatings can also be described as "multi-layer interference films". They are made up of dozens of layers of thin materials that have the unusual property of selectively reflecting or transmitting certain wavelengths of visible light, IR, and UV. Such dichroic coatings have been used since the 1960s to reduce the heat in the beam of certain reflector lamps (GE calls them "Cool-Beam" lamps). MR16 ConstantColor™ coatings are more sophisticated since they not only reduce the heat in the projected beam (up to 66%), but also absorb UV and control the color and amount of the light from both the front and back of the lamp - keeping it constant over the life of the lamp. The coatings are also very durable and will not flake off or deteriorate as the lamp burns. I remember using dichroic filtering technology in the '70s to keep from cooking the standard filter gels we originally used in color printing (photographic), we would use very high intensity bulbs to overcome all the filtering we used and the filter gels would soak up all the heat from the lamps. Hence the dichroic technology which then allowed "dial a filter technology" and later on total automation of the printing process. MR16 lamps without cover glass should only be used in a closed fixture (fixture that keeps all parts of bulb enclosed) since the filament tube of all MR16 lamps is pressurized. In the unlikely event that the filament tube breaks, the closed fixture keeps glass particles from leaving the fixture. MR16 lamps with a built-on cover glass can be operated in an open fixture since the cover glass will contain any broken pieces of the filament tube. ----Some of the above from GE techsheets. I think the Artisan Lamps (and Artisan please correct me if I am wrong) use the GU 5.3 Bi-Pin base. If so you can get both 25W spots and 35W floods for them in the MR16 Dichroic flavor, and please don't accidentally pick-up projector bulbs, they are 125v and not 12v. No matter what bulb you use in them, the Artisan lamps are very good and may be the same item as the Reliable Über Light Lamp. MR16 GE bulbs cost about $2 or so, unbeatablesale is pretty beatable. Art

Hi Mike, That auction has probably been bid up. Look for bidders with very low feedback. It is hard to recognize it but it is quite common on eBay. I could go on and on about eBay but it is a channel and it works for some, I only buy from sellers I know. For $900 I could get you a brand new medium duty machine (138 to 207 thread max) or the same duty machine used for $600, so don't go buying a Boss for $900. Weaver Leather in Mt. Hope, Ohio and Smucker's Harness Shop in Narvon, Pennsylvania both have consignment auctions each year. They have a lot of machinery and surplus goods, you really have to know your stuff, but you can buy a lot for a little, especially when the economy is down. I'll be going to both this year if anyone wants to meet me there let me know. Contact Weaver or Mose Smucker for details, their numbers are in LCSJ and Shop Talk. Art

Hi Mike, Some of the old home machines (the ones made of metal) were indeed built tough. Their only drawbacks were the wimpy home motors they had on them, which pretty much relegated them to fabric (and sometimes not much of that) and the needle bars which often won't take a larger needle. Some would take a 2mm needle shaft but many were 1.64mm. You can get a lot of needle deflection and breakage when going up or down hill. Still, if it's all you got, then you go with it. The newer home machines have tight clearance hooks and aren't happy with anything over a size 30 thread. The Tippmann is a good machine, it does have a pretty good range, and if you can get it for that price, you can probably get your money back if you want to trade up. With money tightening up, hitting the Smucker's or Weaver auctions may prove a good move this year. Art

No 13 hooks are available at Siegel of California https://www.siegelofca.com/itemdetail.asp?prodid=933 and I might have seen them at Weaver, they will probably have to search for them though. Use Birchwood Casey Brass Black if you want them black or paint them. Art

Hi Tony, Highlead is actually Shanghai Huigong No.3 Sewing Machine Factory. What happened to No.1 and No. 2 I haven't a clue. Their website is: http://www.highlead.com.cn Click on Engrish for translation. I have had these machines for 5 years with not a problem. Two of them are Artisan branded. One is Highlead branded. Artisan distributes here in the US as does Westchester and Atlantic. On the bigger machines like the Artisan 4000, Artisan puts their own feet and needle plate on the machines to make them more leather friendly. With Highlead, you might have to do that yourself although Westchester and Atlantic are competent and can do what you need. Artisan puts nice things like a speed reducer and servo motor on their machines, so make sure you compare apples to apples, those extra parts cost dollars. I don't know any dealers in Taz so get the specific model numbers and I'll try to get you a price just to make sure they are fair. I've seen the term "cheap Chinese crap" thrown around a bit, and believe me these machines are very good. I know Huigong is a ISO 9001 factory and they make machines for Mitsubishi among others. I've run these machines at the firewall (high range, cranked all the way up)for 16 hours at a time running Kevlar thread and stitching a 10 layer sandwich of Nomex, Kevlar, and turnout canvas without a whimper, then binding the edges, so that's 12 layers. I was honestly a little worried about the motor, but it didn't get anything past warm. I figured I was abusing the machine, but it paid for itself in one job, so I didn't care. Not to worry, it held up perfectly and after 5 years it is still tight as the day I got it. Keep it oiled if you are going to use it like that. The Highlead machines are good solid machines, they are sold to the industrial market where they would not last long selling crap. They're kinda like Harleys, if there isn't a little oil on the ground, then maybe you should oil some more. The smaller machines like the 618 are a little better that way, some have auto oilers on the hooks and semi-auto or wick systems elsewhere. Good Machines. Art

Hi Elton, I should be out in the May/June edition of the LC&SJ, which should be out by June hopefully. It is better to request a copy of the schedule, you might get that a bit sooner. Best way is to call and bug them and sign-up on the phone. Art

Like I said in another thread, Chandlers were built to fill a niche in the sewing market. Usually something Adler, Pfaff, Consew or Juki didn't want to be bothered with. They would take someone's machine and put some of their custom parts on it and some tuning adjustments to do a special job. While 10,000 units would be a HUGE run for Chandler, it wouldn't even constitute a rounding error for Adler or Pfaff in that time period. For parts, maybe a manual, and just to talk to someone who might remember that model, talk to Henderson Sewing in Andalusia Alabama, 1-800-824-5113, or Shoe Systems Plus in Goshen, New York, 800-354-6278. Art

Hi Mike, I have seen and worked on a few of them, mostly in canvas shops, I've seen them running no speed reducer and big motors and they hold up if you keep them oiled. This is the same machine Sailrite sells as their industrial machine. These machines use the same feet as the Singer 111 so there are plenty of feet and parts out there. A step up would be a Highlead GC-0618 SC-1 or the GC-20618 (very nearly identical) which corresponds with the Artisan 618 SC-1. These are all good machines that you can will to your kids. Note that these are all flat bed machines. I am not sure of the kind of work you do, but if it is anything other than flat work, a cylinder arm or a post bed machine might be in order. For a cylinder arm, I would recommend a Pfaff 335 is various and sundry flavors, The Highlead GC-22618 is the cylinder variant of the GC-0618, no safety clutch on this puppy though. The Pfaff can be had from (used) in your price range to very expensive, you have to shop, there are deals out there. A good new 618SC goes for $900 new and add a couple hundred for a speed reducer and servo motor from a reputable dealer. I can think of three dealers East of the Mississippi who have good prices on these machines and have used machines too. Artisan is good also for new machines. I have bought two machines from them with no complaints. Their service is excellent, excellent, excellent. Product, Service, Price, you can have any two. Note, all medium duty for these puppies, about 18oz to 24oz veg tan max, as much chrome tan as you can get under the foot (slower speeds). Art

Hi Roo, You really need to stay away from the Hong Kong sellers. Some are reputable, but many are not, and they know they have you at arms length. Also, some products (I'm thinking some cameras) cannot be imported to the US and if they (Customs) should inspect, they will seize. Don't know if OZ has those kinds of restrictions. I almost always use PayPal or VISA for eBay stuff, PayPal does stand behind the transaction if they say they will (they may have a limit), and you can reverse a VISA charge with a phone call. Debit or check cards can be harder to reverse, sometimes impossible, and NEVER let them put an instant check through. You should have ACH transfers blocked on any account you use for commerce. Art

Hi Out, Do they have a wholesale club and resellers program over there, if available this should reduce the cost some. Art

Hi Hilly, First of all, each basketweave stamp has an angle to draw that first line that will cause the edges to line up evenly. If anyone knows about this, please jump in and explain it better than me. However you set the diagonal at the angle that will cause the tails to line-up with the border. This obviously only works for straight borders, but even if you only have one straight border, line it up. You need to practice till you can run a straight line on the guideline and then another straight line off of that. Spacing is important and you have to figure that out during practice. The smaller the stamp, the more critical placement, so start big. The most accomplished stamper can show you every error they made, but they will be hard to find. You will likewise see every error you made although others may not. Don't work with the tri-lobe till you have gotten used to the rectangular stamps. Art

Hi Tina et al, One good thing (among the many) about linen is that you can double and even triple it up to make bigger sizes. Needless to say, don't do this in a machine. I can't double up nylon or poly and have it look any kind of decent. Of course, using the proper cord thread is always the best. Barbour's has always made good thread, if a bit pricey, but it is a quality product. I received a spool of 4 cord once that was marked 4/20 instead of the standard 4 cord which is 4/18, now the difference between 4/18 and 4/20 has to be indiscernible at best, even with an optical comparator, but they took the time to measure and mark it anyway. The little things are important. Art

Hi Jeff, The led lights attach with magnets, make sure you have a steel/iron machine or you will have to use glue, hot glue works ok. I have been using the V version on my 4000P for 3 months or so and it hasn't moved. The transformer/light switch attaches under the table. Hardest thing is running the cables to the light neatly. For a home sewing machine with a small distance from light to work, it will provide enough light by itself; for an industrial machine it should be used in conjunction with the Artisan worklamp. Art

Nick, For beginning work, there isn't much complicated about sewing leather. There aren't that many ways to sew two or more pieces of leather together. Upholstery work is a little more complicated, with more defined skills, and canvaswork just a little more. I look through my wife's Sew Beautiful (heirloom sewing) and bridal and quilting mags and have come to the conclusion that I don't know Jack. Putting the curved pieces together on quilts....thank God we don't have to do that with leather. Art

Hi Tammy, Since the place has an "artistic bent" you may get decent traffic that way. Talk to your lawyer, they are usually overly cautious, but expect them to want to make you lawsuit proof with assets held jointly with others with no interest (legally speaking) in the business. You need to do a simulated P&L to make sure this venture makes any sense initially. No use doing it if you KNOW you are going to loose money. If you have taxable income that can be advantageously offset by the startup costs, then that can help. Liability insurance is a necessity if customers come in for classes. You may not sell enough initially (or ever) to make expenses (including salary for you) so you may still have to do shows, but shows are a good thing both as a sales channel and as a marketing vector to get customers to your store for classes. Class sizes of 4 really cut down your opportunities like home schooled kids etc.; my daughter was having class sizes of ten or so and did pretty good. You really need to do the Winnie the Pooh thing and think, think, think and figure out what all the problems are and then think, think, think how to overcome them. Business is doing what you like to do and overcoming the problems that inevitably crop-up in the pursuit of same. Art

Hi Tina, There are darned near as many thread systems as there are thread manufacturers, maybe more. Here's a little technical detail about the differences. Slow reading, a lot of info. Thread_Sizes.htm Don't know who did the work, but most of the info seems correct. Art Thread_Sizes.htm

Hi Nick, I would recommend that you go to The Rocky Mountain Show in Sheridan, Boots and Saddles in Wichita Falls, or The IFoLG Show in Columbus this year. Artisan attends all these shows and a few others also (only Artisan does the IFoLG which is a credit to them). Of all the sewing machine sellers, Artisan is the only one I have seen who will show you how to sew, and let you sit there all day and sew on THEIR leather, no complaints, no sales pressure. If you have to learn, this is the way to do it with Steve giving help whenever you need it. Questions don't seem to bother him much and you will learn a lot. He usually has a box of accessories and feet there so you can see what some of the different feet and needle plates do. Art