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Everything posted by Art
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Casing leather
Art replied to UKRay's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi Ray, Thymol you can get from a beekeepers supply. Phenol in the amounts you would need can be ordered from the Druggist, Chemist, Pharmacy or whatever, maybe they can order the Thymol too. Art -
Casing leather
Art replied to UKRay's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi Ray, I feel the oil restores some conditioning to leather, especially leathers that have been around awhile. I have some rolls of Tandy leather around that are well over 10 years old, and that stuff generally gets oil before any use. We aren't talking the "minty" Listerine here. Listerine has Thymol which is a monoterpene phenol and that is most probably the active ingredient. Listerine was named after Joseph Lister who was a proponent originally of Phenol (Carbolic Acid), however Carbolic acid was never used in Listerine. Either Thymol or Phenol would be a good antifungal/antiseptic for addition to caseing solutions. If you have mold/mildew on a piece, you can put it in a plastic bag with a few Thymol crystals and leave it a couple of days to kill it. More semi-useful info. Art -
I know it's is an oxymoron, but they have polyester felt now, this might be a bit more water resistant than the real (wool) thing. I know Weaver carries it. Art
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Casing leather
Art replied to UKRay's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi Ray, I lightly oil with #1 Saddle Oil (Bee Natural) two or three days before I wet the leather, I leave it set in the boiler room (85 degrees F, 30% humidity). The trick here is LIGHTLY oil, one coat only, light application, if it soaks up the oil rapidly, don't apply any more. If the leather looks to be in good shape, I skip the oil. Art -
Casing leather
Art replied to UKRay's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi Ray, I am not much of a carver, borders and highlights but mostly stamping. I have used Pro-Carv and water and just applied it with a sponge and let it come back to color and have not had a problem. I have also used distilled water and a capfull of Dawn dishwashing detergent to a spray bottle and honestly couldn't tell the difference. Not that I am any kind of expert. Mind you only the green Dawn works, anything else and your results may vary. I did try leaving the solution overnight on Funk and Wagnel's porch, but someone appropriated it so I won't try that again. I do lightly oil the piece a couple of days before wetting it. Art -
The Consew 745 is a twin needle flat bed with a 30 inch throat that I wouldn't mind having, but a flat bed is a little restrictive for some holsters and it IS a big machine. The Chandler is a lot like the Ferdco 440R and could be ok. Never seen a 328 Consew. Art
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Hi Curt, The 241-12 is a medium duty machine with 5/16 presser foot lift so 1/4 inch is about the best you can expect it to sew. This is a factory machine designed for sewing denim and other heavys. The -13 was a little heavier with a little higher lift but the -12 is good. Note the pressure feed system. This machine was rated at about 4000 spm all day and could very well be setup to do that. I have seen one with a 2hp 3450 rpm clutch motor. That kind of machine you definitely don't want, it would cost too much to make it what you need, however one that does a controllable speed would be a keeper if it does what you need. You won't be able to find a 16 X 257 needle with a leather point, but a regular sharp point will work for the most part, ball points aren't that great though. A 21 is about the maximum needle size and will do 92 or 135 thread, use an 18 for 69 thread. Normally I would tell you to go get a Singer 111 or 211 or a Pfaff 545, but I know your choices are limited, ask around at some of the sewing shops (ask the repair guy) and see if there is an upholstery machine on the market, the Nakagima 280L is also a good machine, tell him you have $500-$600 to spend for a good one. Art
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It uses a size M bobbin that is in a removable case. Get everything in the "up" position and go to the bobbin and there will be a little "tab"on it (the case actually) lift that up and grabb it and the case and bobbin will come out easily. Reverse to put back in. Art
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Hi Rhome I wouldn't take on the Landis No.3 as my first machine. It is (when working properly) a very excellent machine, a "Campbell like" needle and awl machine although nothing except maybe a few screws and ancillary parts from a Campbell or Randal fit it. As a first machine it will be trying, and you need to be able to judge condition as a rebuild on one could be pricey. If the price is right and it is in good condition I would not pass it up. With little experience on your side, I would pass and get the Artisan. Art
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Hi Windy, Was that Michael Boursaw who gave you that info? Tandy and Weaver do have a buyer/supplier relationship in both directions, there is not even a thought of anything in the acquisition category. And that is from Tandy's controller in an email. Tandy's stock is not plummeting, they had about a 50% reduction about 2 or 3 months ago, a bunch of stock got sold and because of the low float it depressed the price. It has stabilized anywhere ,25 either side of three. I have been watching the insider trades and they are all pretty much buys. I am a silent partner in several tack shops. Everyone thinks that horse people have money, and that is not really true, many struggle to pay vet and medication bills. We use Weaver tack among others, and it is good solid stuff but not of high finish, just what our customers want. I would have a hard time making anything even of that quality to compete with it. It is good safe equipment that allows us to sell it at a respectable margin. It has the Weaver tag on it and they have the liability insurance to back it up. Weaver doesn't compete with me, but then I don't make wholesale harness. Weaver is very careful to sell only to harness or tack shops. If you want to sell quality harness or tack, you need to seek out those customers who have the money to spend on it. Another thing Weaver can do is some of the repetitive work in the shop that you just don't have time to do. They have a full fledged leather factory and can do most anything (on leather they supply) at about medium quality workmanship. Their sewing can at times be less than optimal. Their communications skills can sometimes be trying (I mean following directions) so KISS. When working with anyone, you will only receive as much quality as you demand, no matter what you pay. Also, competition is good, it is the American way. Art
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Hi Johanna, Happy Birthday! Calf is quicker, spookier, and smaller. What happens to a male calf after roping is something they really don't want any part of, hence they are quicker and spookier. Knowing where their stall is can be attributer to the love affair they have with their milking machine. There is a big difference in the calf cycle of beef and dairy. In dairy cattle the calf is necessary to maintain milk production, they are taken from the cow early. Beef cattle have their calf for quite a bit longer and the cow is pretty much ready for them to go. I've seen dogs work dairy but not beef, the dogs are usually put down after 6 or 7 years as they can pose a problem for sheep and goats if not watched all the time so when the dog stops working, it usually gets put down. In sports where they time things in hundredths and thousandths of seconds, I guess everything used in the sport is special. Bruce will have forgotten way more about this than I will ever know. Art
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Hi Heather and Bruce, The 440 I thought I saw did not have needle feed, just drop feed, they called it a "Baby Bull", but it was nowhere near the machine the 900 Bull was. In my opinion, the 900-B on that big Consew 754 frame was the best machine Ferdinand ever made, except the Juki 2000 Pro could be it's equal. Maybe it was an older model of 400 I worked with? The shuttles in the big machines can handle smaller thread down as low as 69 or 92, however if you use the requisite needle, the shuttle hook/needle gap gets too large and you get skipping and even birdsnesting so, you have to shim the shuttle to get the hook closer to the needle. Of course every time you do that you have to adjust tension and sew off; this is why it is better to have a machine to run 46-138 or maybe 207 and another to run 207-415; I guess you have to figure out on which side of the 207 line your interests cluster. Art
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I wouldn't really recommend it. It is a cylinder arm which is good, but it is drop or bottom or feed dog feed only (they're all the same thing). If you want something for medium and heavy leather you will be happier with needle feed and basically little or no feed dog action. If you don't need the big 16" throat of a big stitcher, they now make 9" models that are a bit cheaper and are pretty much Juki 441 clones with smaller throats. Ferdco number is 2020 and Artisan is the 3000, the Artisan is a bit (big bit) less expensive and the machines are similar and are Walking foot, needle feed and drop feed (dogs). If you can live with the flat bed, the Ferdco 1245 (which is a clone of a Pfaff) and the Artisan 618-1SC will handle anything 24oz and even more with adjustments. Cylinder arm machines will accommodate a plethora of needle plate and presser foot combinations for making the job easier while flat beds generally have one needle plate and some feet although usually used for sewing welting etc. Whatever you get, get it with a DC Servo motor which will make sewing and controlling the machine much easier than the standard clutch variety. A speed reducer (which also multiplies torque which is important) is kind of a necessity for a big stitcher doing custom work. If you can help it, don't skimp on a sewing machine, you will have it forever, and buying the wrong one will just mean you will have to buy the right one too. Go to a major show before you buy and get the dog and pony show on all the brands and then make them teach you how to run it, and then play with it for an hour or two. It is really the only way. Art
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I use a sewing machine. I do occasionally hand stitch, but usually only a few stitches, maybe 5 to 10 to get somewhere the machine won't go, like under large belt loops. When I first started, I used an awl in the drill press (not running) to make the holes, you could also use a sewing machine needle. If you use a stitch wheel before punching the holes, your spacing will be even. Things with uneven spacing or where you have to be in a groove on both the top and bottom of the work will require the use of the awl, toe plugs in holsters and casework come to mind. One famous (or infamous) saddle maker uses a dremel to drill holes for stitching, just don't go too big on the holes. Art
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Hi Clay, Remember when you were single (that's 30 some years ago go for me), I only had one pan so I better be able to cook everything in it or I was eating out. One pan and a coffee pot, what more do you need? Makes it a lot easier to clean-up too. Art
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Hi Max, When I do a wrap on a knife handles (nylon flat cord over ray), I use polyurethane liquid glue like this as a sealer, it pretty much self levels as I apply pretty thin. Art
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Hi Johanna, Lets look at from your daughter's point of view; One case for the Nintendo and one case for the.......iPod. It's a win win situation. Art
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Hi Milen, What you are probably seeing is thread deterioration and needle punch out. First the thread deterioration; when thread sits around for awhile, it will cause the bonding to deteriorate and flake when running through the needle. You may be able to strip off a layer or two of the thread and remedy this, but just a spritz of Fiebing's Liquid Glycerin Soap to the outside of the spool every two or three weeks will keep this from happening. Second, the needle will "punch out" the underside of the leather because the leather is not well supported, there is not a lot you can do about this. My needle and awl machine is a little better at not doing this, but it will happen to some extent on most machines when you are doing items that are stiff. Art
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That is an industrial machine for light to medium Fabric. It used a 16X95 needle which is the same as a DBX1 or a 16X231 or 16X257 or DBX257 and a bunch of others, not many or any in serious tri points although you might find a wedge somewhere, but mostly standard and ball point for sewing natural and synthetic fabric. It will probably sew chrome tanned leather, no larger than what you can get under the presser. Good machine for light work if the needle system were better. You can slow it down by changing motors and pulleys and or a speed reducer, but then you are into the price range where you can get something serious. The price is right for that machine, not great but right if it is in good condition. Art
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These make great gifts
Art replied to Hammerhead's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi Windy, Since we have over 150 different sworn police agencies in this town (D.C.), I can foresee a whole world of trouble carrying the gun lighter, then again we have so many agents here that nobody cares as long as it is in a holster (if in a holster police assume you have a permit or are a leo). Art -
These make great gifts
Art replied to Hammerhead's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Oh Windy, You're just standing around and all of a sudden the band (where'd that come from) breaks out in the full blown rendition on "Comfortably Numb". You slap leather, draw your trusty Bic and thrust it into the air and "click" you sway to the vibe.....you have arrived. Art -
I remember being at Dover during the 1989 Nascar season where Dick Trickle usually ran pretty good (I don't think he was ever better than 5th or so, but did make ROTY). The announcer used to get a kick out of saying, "Look at that Dick Trickle", whenever he passed someone. Dick had the distinction of being the only driver who smoked during caution laps, had a hole drilled in his helmet for a cigarette, and the only car in Nascar with a cigarette lighter installed (well, it WAS the Winston Cup then). A friend of mine and his two brothers were named Tom, Dick, and Harry in that order, not Thomas, Richard, and Harold. Art
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Mercury was a brand used by Morse Distributing. Morse was noted for knocking off Singers in Japan and I have seen some '50s vintage machines from India. They did this with a lot of appliances under the "Mercury Electric" name. Yours looks like what they were making in the '70s-'80s timeframe, as Japan got better, so did their machines. You see some of these in canvas shops, if kept oiled, they hold up pretty well. Needles -- 135-17 for round or ball points, 135-16 for spear (Tri) points Bobbins -- Not sure, but just guessing maybe Singer Industrial. Threading is from left to right, needle groove on left, again just like any Singer Industrial. Value -- I have seen $250 complete, but not in as good shape, and as high as $450. Art