Art

Hi Carl, Best way to find out is to call him direct; Bill Buchman's number is 541-382-8851. Mention to him that you ordered from him before. Also mention if you want the smaller (lady's) handle. Art

Hi Hilly, I'll show and tell with about half of what I have. I like Buchman knives and I have Five. The BB6 is a large head knife that I use a lot especially for long straight cuts. The BBX1 is a little skiving knife with a larger handle that I use as much as the BB6. I do not "palm" this knife. The BBX3 is another head knife that is smaller with a smaller handle, you can "palm" this knife easily and it turns easier. The BBXV is a pattern that Bill made for Verlane Desgrange, a long tail oval knife with a small handle for palming. The BXV2 is a very small knife Bill also made for Verlane and is great for tight places, sometimes you just have to have a knife like this. This is the standard CSO Head Knife that has been around for years, and so has this one. Nice knife but needs work out of the box. And of course this is the CSO Round Knife dull as a piece of straw out of the box. This is a knife made by Duey Peters and is quite good, sharp as hell out of the box and around $60. It is a little smaller so it is better than the big knives around curves. Here is a picture of a Don Carlos (I couldn't find my DC head knife that looks somewhat like a cleaver) straight (sorta) Knife, A Clicker knife (Blue Handle) which works on everything if you keep it sharp, this thing and a Utility knife could get you through your leather career, and last but not least the surgical scalpel (No.10 on this one). The old skiver tried and true and indispensable. Last but not least the Utility knife, the only knife you can do most anything with. You do really need to sharpen them for serious work but for general stuff the blades work out of the box. For serious leather cutting, you need to at very least strop these blades. Bill Buchman is over 70 now and doesn't take new customers, Big Sky Tool and Die might still handle them but you may have a hard time getting the X versions which are not in his regular lineup. Also it may be harder to find the smaller handles if you like to "palm" the knife. If you are lucky enough to get a Buchman, don't expect exotic handles, there is Black Walnut and maybe if you are lucky Black Walnut. If I were on a budget, I could get by easily with a Scalpel, Utility Knife, and Clicker Knife and stay under $50. If really on a budget, three utility knives of varying sharpness from out of the box to scary is a good choice. Good Luck, Art

Hi Bill, Right you are. And wool is different still. If you really want something confusing, go to an embroidery or knitting show with the wife. They use numbers that aren't based on anything, and it seems that different manufacturers use different numbers that aren't based on anything. It just seems so much simpler THAT way. Art

Hi Ed, In the US, it is both ways. A&E uses the TEX system pretty much while Coats uses the "old" TKT. Foreign manufacturers who do business tend to use the "old" TKT like Linhanyl. Eddington was using old TKT last time I looked. But if you are buying a large amount of thread, the companies are going to put whatever labels you want on them. If you do business with the US Gov, they have their own sizes (letters in smaller sizes and one digit numbers in larger sizes). Probably the most used system in the world is the metric system where the thread size is determined by the number of 1000 meter hanks of a particular thread it takes to make a kilogram. This is the system they use in Europe and Australia and pretty much the rest of the world. There are some other sizes that are also used for nylon and poly that you see occasionally. Then there is the yarn size we are familiar with and is usually used on linen and cotton threads. This is two numbers separated by a slash. The first number is the yarn size which is the number of 840 yard hanks of a particular thread it takes to make a pound (God knows someone has to have converted that to a metric equivalence, but it ain't going to be me), then a slash, then the number of plys of that yarn size, for example 18/3 is what we commonly call 3-cord linen. There seems to be some obsessive compulsive thing going on with those sizes as I just got some 4-cord Barbour's in marked 20/4. So whatever company you are dealing with, and wherever you are, you have to use whatever system the supplier uses. Art

Hi Barra, On ticket numbers: US TkT/Metric Ticket 33/100 60/46 69/40 92/30 138/20 207/13 277/10 346/8 415/7 554/5 693/4 We also have a system called TEX and it is close to the US Tkt, for instance 138 TKT is 135 TEX. We use smaller thread in bobbins 1. To make them last longer 2. It gives a tighter stitch (Straight from old Campbell Manual) Art

Hi Regis, For cowboy, I have been using 346/277 and have been threatening to go to 277/207. However with 346/277, I have to dig a pretty deep stitch groove to get 346 to lay low enough that the buckle doesn't wear the thread (this is for the D/S billet). Campbell is always 5cord/4cord, which looks a lot like 277/207. Art

Hi Geoff, Like yo see someone come down the road in an F-150 and clip that puppy, it sure would cure them of that little perversion. Art

Hi Goeff, I hope you didn't stop quick, those boys will run you right over. Call Campbell-Bosworth or Pilgrim, they might have copies available. http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/ http://www.pilgrimshoemachine.com/ Art

Hi Ed, I worry about teaching this stuff without the benefit of proper teaching aids like pointing and talking. Maybe Dave can give you help or you can get an industrial sewing machine guy to explain it to you. That being said, when you start doing stuff like this, you need more than the rudimentary education needed for a machine operator. The walking foot mechanism is a little complicated but they made it as one system to keep cost and space down. There is only one spring to tension both feet and only one adjustment for that tension, there are not two presser foot adjustments (someone asked this earlier, or in another life). Pull off the side cover. The biggest block of metal in there other than the crank end is the thing that helps actuate the presser feet. This block acts as an anchor for the outside presser feet and also applies pressure to the inside presser foot through a lever. This block may have a wheel on it that rides up the back of the case. The lever has a rod that connects it to a adjustable rod end on the walking foot shaft, this is the short outside shaft on a 441. The other end of the short shaft(toward the middle of the machine) has another adjustable rod end that also has an adjustment that is in your picture. This adjustment is for the range of motion of the short shaft that operates the walking feet. Basically this adjustment is for height of lift and not for basic resting height. The further out the adjustment is, the less it will move the short walking foot shaft. The reason for this adjustment is that most of these machines sew one thing all day. Same stuff and same thickness. The machine works more efficiently if the feet move the minimum amount to effectively sew. The real adjustments are in the head and the other end (head cover end) if the short walking foot shaft. The adjustable rod end on the walking foot shaft allows you to set the equilibrium or balance point where both feet are down, but if you don't affect the timing it can be used to adjust the height of the feet to some degree. Now, until you understand how this system works and relates timing wise to the needle system, hook system, and the needle feed system, you shouldn't be making adjustments to the foot shafts in the head (which are collars in the blocks that lift these shafts). If I were to change these heights, I would probably re time everything. This should not really be necessary to make these kinds of adjustments for a simple foot change, and all the more reason to buy accessory parts from the distributor. Anyway, pull the side cover off and look really carefully at all that's going on in there, it ain't rocket science, but it is brilliant mechanical engineering, and understanding what is going on will help you understand the other adjustments on the machine. P.S. Don't forget to put the thread tension release (for upper thread tension) back on the presser foot lift rod when putting the cover back on. Art

Hi Ed, Inner feet seem to be ok no matter who's you use. Outer feet are quite a different story. Some make them a little shorter to easily accommodate thick materials, Ferdco comes to mind. All this can be adjusted though, I have used both Ferdco and Artisan feet on my machines but prefer to stick with one brand for a particular machine. I know it isn't possible for a lot of folks, but if I see a presser foot/needle plate combo that I really need, I buy the machine attached to it also. For production work, changing feet/plates/setups is a waste of manpower and money. You usually recoup the cost of the new machine within a year. If you can't go the new machine route, you should plan and stage your work so you can accomplish all of a particular type of sewing at the same time to minimize setups. This will require you to have a lot more work in process and may at first be an organizational headache (not to mention the materials expense of having all that partially completed work hanging around) but the time saving is considerable. Eventually you realize that all that partially completed work is taking up more room than a couple of extra machines. Art

Art

Hi Brent, I think what you may be looking for is a painted edge. It is common in the industry to paint edges with a heavy acrylic paint, like edge kote on steroids, it comes really thick and you cut it with water as much as 1/4 water by volume, it works great in machines but can be painted on with a piece of felt. Fiebing's Edge Kote also works pretty good. Liquid shoe polish is sometimes the same stuff although may be water or solvent based. However, with watch bands, I would go for more of a burnished edge, it will hold-up better over time. You don't necessarily want and the customer should not expect a high wear item like a watch band to last forever, you will notice that replacements, even for metal bands, are commonly available. Styles change and fashion attitudes change, hence watchbands change. Art

Hi Bob, A lot of us (US) really consider Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Texas honorary states, hope the feeling is mutual. All built on the rebel/outcast/fugitive/colonial mentality and similar culture. As far as a place to go to pursue a leatherworking career, a touristy area with an artist community and with a emphasis on the particular specialty of the artist. These areas are usually on the outskirts of the tourist areas where location costs are not prohibitive and cost of living is not burdensome. Art

I think it is Cletus take the Reel. Cute video. I was waiting to see the 10lb bass come out of the water, and here they struggle to get that little 3/4 pounder in the boat. Art

Hi Bird, If it is your first machine then I hardily recommend a new one with the service that comes along with it. The Artisan 618 sc-1 lthr would be a good machine in a flat bed: http://www.artisansew.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=173 If you want a cylinder then the 3000 is the ticket: http://www.artisansew.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=166 Or they do make a cylinder arm version of the 618: http://www.artisansew.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=182 If you can't go the bucks for a new one then on the used market a Singer 111 or a Singer 31 are good machines as are the Pfaff 545 or Pfaff 1245. These machines also came in twin needle versions and if they have a split needle bar then they will work. The Pfaff 142 is only good for light work, it will only take size 100/16 needles and 46 or 69 thread. The Pfaffs will be more expensive and parts are made of unobtanium, but they seldom break. Only buy from a reputable seller and go and see the machine to select it, take sample leather to sew it off. The dealer should be able to set the machine up to sew what you want with thread and needles to match. You will be able to find the most accessories for the Singer 111 as they still use that foot style on newer machines. Remember, with a used machine, you will most likely have to service it yourself. Good Luck, Art

Hi rdb, What is the size distribution on belts you sell? Art

It is a little better than that Marmite you get for breakfast in England. Whatever you do, don't spread it on too thick it tastes a little like tar. Art

Hi Karl, It looks a little like the "Leather Lady" herself. Although she doesn't look nearly that old. Art

Artisan support is well worth the $150, especially if it is your first machine. The servo motor is a DC variable speed motor which will make your learning curve very short. You'll feel fairly confident after 1/2 an hour practicing. It is very hard to get used to the clutch motor when it is new, it is hard disengaging the brake to hand wheel the machine without engaging the clutch (watch them fingers), and feathering takes a little getting use to. Art

Hi Andrew, I haven't had my hands on a 2020, but it looks remarkably similar to an Artisan 3000. The Pro 2000 Super Bull and the Artisan 4000 R are basically Juki 441 clones, there may be a claim of things like lower needle guides etc, but I know more people who have taken them off (basically it is just the hole part of the feed dog) than who see them as useful. Either of them will do 7/8" or even 1" with adjustment. Extremes either way will need adjustments as with most all machines. I am not real conversant in the 205s, they are 3/4" machines by spec, I don't know if you can push them. I just went to the shop and ran 1" of sole bend through the No.9, BY HAND, sure don't want to do that for long, no adjustments, worked fine. I have the Artisan 4000P, it is bigger than the 441 and has a bigger and much heavier casting, higher quality parts, 7/8" for as long as you want as fast as you want. Have to adjust a little bit for 1" and over, machine is plenty strong enough. It is a little pricey but a brute. The Campbell is a pretty solid machine, you need to adjust a little for different setups like lock depth, but timing is pretty mechanical and usually stays put, needle and awl work together, shuttle can be a little intimidating, just the sound of it wacking back and forth in there can be a little scary, not to mention running with the covers off. I would not recommend it as a first machine. The Union is a PIA, set it up and oil it and don't mess with it. Champions are easy to work on but have pretty narrow throat, even on the "wide" model. All of them bring new meaning to "heavy metal". In slow mode, most of the needle and awl machines run pretty fast. Hope the observations help. Art

Hi Bob, Just get it through Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers. Website: http://www.woodcarvers.com/yellowstone.htm Big Sky's number is 1-800-282-4759 Art

Did you try Big Sky Tool and Die, they used to handle them for him and may have some. Art

Hi Andrew, I have A No.9, A really big Artisan, a smaller Artisan, A Campbell needle and awl, A Double needle Pfaff and a couple of small Singers that are now property of the wife, and a few of the wife's home machines that I maintain. I have had many other machines pass through that I have bought right and resold, a 6/6 was one of them, I have also owned the bigger Ferdco and Ferdinand machines. I have looked at and played with a Classic but have never owned one, it is so similar to the ASE No.9 that either would do. If you are new to sewing machines and/or not technically inclined, I would buy from a distributor/dealer with a good service dept and track record. If you are not comfortable with talking with them and working with them, go find someone else. Talk to the guys in the back, not the president/owner, these are the folks you have to deal with when the manure hits the windmill. You can find deals on the used market and at consignment auctions. but not for your first machine, you just won't know enough to walk away from a disaster looking for a new owner. I can recommend two sellers that I have experience with. Artisan and Ferdco. Right now, I feel Artisan machines are a better value dollar for dollar, the machines are similar in function and performance, Ferdco's medium machines tend to follow the Pfaff look and function, whereas Artisan's tend to look and work like Juki and Mitsubishi. All the big machines from both are like Jukis. There is a company, Sewing Machine Sales and Service that sells the brand Sewmo, they have the clone or both the Juki 441 and the Adler 205-370, I have heard good things about these machines, but don't have any hands on with them, and no experience with the SMSS company. Their prices are a little higher than Artisan for the 441 clone. I don't know what your financial limits are, but if you can deal with the 9" arm, The Artisan 3000 is about the best buy out there (see the Marketplace section of leatherworker.net and look under sewing machines->new). In longer arm machines (16") the Artisan 4000R is around $3000. If you really need a long arm, they have a model of the 441 that has a 25" arm for around $3500, nice machine but heavy and the stand column is about the size of a fire plug (and about as heavy); nice machine if you need it at a really great price (long arms are notoriously expensive). If you lean more toward Ferdco, Bruce Johnson can fill you in on his experiences with them, I don't want this to sound like an Artisan commercial. Weaver Leather sells Adler machines and they are excellent machines. They are developing a clone machine of their own which looks like and Adler head with a Juki bottom sort of thing. This doesn't surprise me as they have so much Adler experience and it looks like they wanted a little longer arm. I don't know if they have it to market yet, but I have seen the prototype. Art

Hi Andrew, I had one for a short period of time. Although it ran well, it wasn't an ASE No. 9 and it definitely wasn't a Pearson or a Classic. When you compare it to the others, something was different, it however did sew ok. I got rid of it (I got offered way more than I could refuse). I see them come up for sale at over $3,000 which I think is a little high as you can buy a new 441 clone for that and you get reverse. If you can get a really good deal (under $2000 or LESS) it is an ok harness machine. You don't see a lot of them around and I don't think they sold well. Art

The term "English Tack" comprises four or five different disciplines. For Bridlework, I guess Robert Steinke's book "Bridlework" is a good enough place to start. For Driving Harness, Preston and Martin's book Making Harness is good and covers the spectrum. Others will have to chip in about saddles. Repair is a serious business as you really have to know when to turn repairs down and tell them to get a new saddle or other piece of tack. There is some real junk out there, made without regard for the rider or animal. There are a lot of synthetics out there which none of the traditional manuals cover that run the gammit from really quite good to don't let your kid on it. If you repair it, you become, unfortunately, responsible for not only the repair, but the whole thing no matter what goes wrong. Make sure your assets are covered, it seems that the courts and juries are infinitely pleased with giving your money to idiots who should never be on a horse in the first place. If you want to sell tack, buy it from Weaver, leave their tag on it, mark it up and resell it. Weaver has good liability insurance. The Artisan 4000R is as close to a Juki 441 as you are going to get, so download a copy of the manual from their website. Art