Art

Ed, Then we got to get you a Campbell or a Union. A bad day with a Union Lockstitch can indeed be a bad day. Art

Hi Deb, I could tell you to get an Artisan 797 or 618, but then you really need to get enough info to convince yourself. Go back and read the many threads in this forum, some of us on this forum have answered these questions numerous times. There is a lot of info here for the asking. You can skip the technical posts but there is a lot of info on selection of a machine. If you want to save time, search on 797 618 3000 1245 545 2000, read up and then come back with specific questions, your time will be better spent with reading and specific questions. Art

Hi Ed, I don't think it will jam anything, however the tension might vary as you sew, or it might not feed bobbin and and usually break the thread. I guess you could try, there are always going to be pioneers. Art

Hi Ed, You can just take the feed dogs off, they don't do anything but what feed dogs do. My 4000P came without dogs installed, but I got a set included with the blanket foot system which I install when Rose does elevator blankets; I remove it when going back but it could be left in and lowered if you like the idea of a lower needle guide (the hole in the feed dog for the needle). Personally, I don't think it is necessary as there is always a chance of missing it (and I'd rather skip a stitch than break a needle). So if you leave it in and lowered, make sure it is lined-up properly. Happy Holidays, Art

Hi Luke, I don't have any experience with the 151W-1, but if you can pick it up cheap? The best way is to sew it off using 46 thread and see how it goes. Art

Hi Ed, They are both threaded needle machines, both hook systems are tried and true; they will both stitch the same. If you want a tighter stitch, you will have to use a Campbell or a Randal, or a Union needle and awl machine. If you are currently using a 441, I would stay with that family of machine unless it is doing something that you don't like. They clone Jukis and Adlers, must be a reason for that, one thing is the availability of parts for them, another is that they work and last pretty well. Art

I use an oval punch like they use on harnesswork for my belts, they are a stock item from CSO and Weaver. You might be able to accomplish that by crushing a round punch in a press, but they usually turn out oval. Oval would look good in that application, better than the rounded oblong, but if you have to have it, call Paul Weaver and see if he can give you the name of one of his Amish smiths, make sure he tells you how to contact them, they usually don't have phones. Or call Vandy at Sheridan Outfitters and see if Douglas has anything like that, it may be some old punch, anyway they would know. Art

Hi Dave, Have him dye the jeans black, better than going around looking like you sat in grease. Black is not the only color to crock, ask Steve Siegel, he had a whole shipment of burgundy drum dyed that he sold for nothing. Lighter colors you don't notice, but the darker colors are dead giveaways when they crock. Around here, Black Denim is all the rage. Art

Hi Tony, It is when the leather drinks up all the spirit dye, gets crocked, and barfs it onto everything it touches. It doesn't bleed the dye, it rubs off dry. Art

Hi Ed, I use Weaver's Silicone Thread Lube in the threaded needle machines. I use Lily oil or Campbell/Randal light machine oil to lubricate the machines. I use wax to lubricate the linen thread on the Campbell Needle and Awl machine. However you could use any lightweight mineral oil in a pinch, helps if it is colorless, and mix that with neatsfoot oil for your own custom blend, however organic oils will oxidize if not fully hydrogenated (saturated). Art

Hi Gear. Kelly's De-Salter, Kelly's is a company owned by Fiebing that manufactures products for the Retail/Wholesale shoe trade. Most shoe trade wholesale houses have the Kelly's line. Price guideline is $2.50 for a 4 oz bottle. Google it for a supplier. Art

Hi Dave, Well, having them wear black pants and chaps might help a little. I guess some form of acrylic to seal it up, like saddle lac, but that stuff is slick. The deglazer will remove the finish, but not the dye. You will need some form of nonporous sealer, anything that breaths will let the dye through. I've had drum dyed stuff crock occasionally, guess it just happens. You might want to ask Dave Genedek what to do, he used to work for Dyo. Art

Hi Bruce, Another little tip, after you rip them apart, try using one of those big gummy rubber sticks like I use to clean the belts on my belt grinder to rub out the stitches. It works. Art

Hi Lindsay, I have seen a Campbell occasionally on the Ferdco website in the used for sale section, they are around $4500 which may be looking better with the exchange rate or about 30,500 Rand I think. Of course prices on these things are usually negotiable. Art

Hi LJR, Some of what you are saying I can agree with. Better stitch, yes, that much better, real hard to see. For someone who does less than production work, the needle and awl machine might just be more than they can (or really want to) handle. The threaded needle machines (because most HD leather stitcher and needle and awl machines are needle feed) are a lot easier to conceptualize and to learn then their needle and awl counterparts, most using 100 or more year old technology and unfortunately parts, the Campbell, Randall, and Union being the only ones with companies still manufacturing parts. Also, some of that 100 or more year old technology should have been replaced by newer methodologies, but they haven't been because of the volume of machines used by industry; the jump foot on the Campbell comes to mind. For the most part, the average Joe or Josephine wants to go to his machine the 5 or 6 times a week that he uses it for a few minutes each time and have it work for an initial purchase price of less than three grand. When things get to not working properly, he wants to be able to fix it himself, and believe me, few of the current crop of leatherworkers are sewing machine mechanics. In fact, there are scant few real sewing machine mechanics I would trust with my Campbell. Then we must remember that the majority of leatherworkers are multi discipline, they want to use different size thread on different materials, and they want a fast changeover, mind you with just a little experience, that has not been the forte of the needle and awl and is where the threaded needle shines. For holster welts all day, give me a Campbell or Union, add in checkbook covers, belts, purses, and tack and the threaded needle machine looks better, especially for a one machine shop. If I could have one machine, I doubt it would be a needle and awl. Art

Hi Regis, It comes in handy when sewing up close to something that bulges. Like if you want to outline up close to the gun on a holster. Also good to have a right side outer foot to go with it. Basically, you use it when you have something that won't lay flat on the standard needle plate. Remember that you will lose some thickness capability using one of these, which is one of the reasons to have a LARGE machine for holster work. If you have over an inch of lift and can sew 7/8 to 1" thick, losing 3/8 inch to a holster plate isn't usually a big bother. Sometimes you will have to make presser foot adjustments to compensate, but it is not a big deal. Sometimes you have to take a file to it and make it a little smaller, here again no big deal. Needle plates are a little pricey so don't buy it to let it lay around in the drawer. Art

Hi Kevin, You need to go to a paper mill to get paper gum, it is a wet end additive in the paper making process. Daughter says it is also used in fabric printing. It is a natural product I think, but why they would think anyone would just have some laying around is beyond me. Art

Hi Crow, 1oz = 1/64 inch = .015625 inch = 0.396875 millimeters. At least over here in the US. Art

Hi Dink, Some but not a whole lot. It is what the shoe industry calls a moccasin sewing machine. It sews the toe to the upper and crimps, it has what I can only describe as a wild a-- feed mechanism. I don't have enough experience with it to tell you if you could convert it to conventional feed. Jump Foot is a oversimplification of what it is, the one I saw had a lot of external hardware on it, and most of it moved. You might want to go over to one of the shoe and boot groups and ask there as it is a little more up their alley. As for quality, them old Adlers are tanks. Art

Hi Tom, If you seal the back with something water resistant and breathable like Pecard's or even Gum Tragacanth it will be better than nothing. Bag Kote and Tan Kote breath also. If you are worried about allergic reaction, then Gum Trag is a good bet as that stuff is as close to food grade as any leather products get. Personally, I have been a Pecard's freak for years, no allergy problems there either. It doesn't buff up to a dazzling shine like others, but it does the job as far as protection goes. On holsters and knife sheaths, I always treat the insides with Bag Kote or something even if it has a pasted finish from the tanner. I just don't like to leave things unfinished, even if you can't see them. Art

Hi Ed, I have a Craftool and two Dixon adjustable screw creases. I like both for veg tan over 11oz, guess they could work on 9oz also. I like the Dixon screw creases because you can heat them, The Craftool wouldn't be long for this world if you tried to heat it. On anything lighter, and especially calf or kip I like a fixed crease, they track better on flimsier stuff. For fixed creases I really like the older US or Dixon tools. Art

The Swiss needles are good. I don't use them a lot primarily because of supply, and Schmetz work and I can always seem to get what I want, even the reverse twist. Art

Hi Ed, I only use Schmetz or Groz-Beckert on the big machines. I got a pack of Organ 135x16TRI from Ferdco once, used a couple, the rest are in the drawer. Art

Hi Dink, If you can get a 180 (Singer 24) needle in it then about 138 thread. I usually see them loaded with a 120 (Singer 18 or 19) needle and 69 thread. Also seen a 100 (#16) needle and 46 thread. The 29s are old shoe patch machines and were seldom run with the larger thread and very seldom used for general leatherwork construction, however they can be handy as hell to put a patch on a sleeve or for repair of an assembled piece. If you have it and have room for it, keep it, because what it does it does well. Tune it up and learn to use it well, and you can pay for it in one day at bike week. Art

Hi Ed, I use Schmetz, I tried the Organ and found them too bendy. With 346 I am at 6 SPI. With 277 I might try 7. On the Campbell I use 6 SPI with 4 Cord which is kind of like 277. Art