Art

Very good and reputable company. Quality is very good, customer service is excellent, prices seem fair. Satisfaction is guaranteed and they seem to mean it. They have specials weekly and their year end special is also great. Used them six or so years. Weaver leather is also very good although their leather selection is not as extensive as Siegel. I've used Weaver for at least 10 years. Great hardware and tool selection. Art

Hi Everyone, Since someone asked what to buy, I give you my thoughts. For the "I've never seen a camera before and want to shoot great pictures" crowd, Sony's line of digital consumer cameras is just the ticket, I have two of these for my wife and they allow her to take great pictures. Back in the film world, I used Nikon and Hasselblad, both great cameras, still have them and film for them.....somewhere. Daughter's art schools (she teaches now) still require film but the digital to film services are so good now that I don't think we have used those things in years. For semi-pro or "prosumer" work it is hard to beat the Canon line. Get an SLR if you can afford it or at the very least something with a viewfinder of sorts. I have a 10D and a 5D which are great choices, but not totally necessary unless shooting with strobes. Strobes require synchronization and the ability to defeat everything automatic about lighting in a camera. I don't like the "pro" cameras because you have to give up the little built in flash which I find really handy at times. Because of my film background I shoot with strobes, sometimes as many as five when using a cube, but with digital, this is no longer necessary unless you really need the hard light you can get from them direct. If you want to go there, Alien Bees (Paul Buff's economy line) makes good lights at reasonable prices. Nowadays, we can color and white balance both on and off camera. The software that Canon uses is excellent for point and shoot work and almost everything coming out of the camera is really well balanced. If you need to make changes, photoshop will allow you to correct most problems. What does this mean? Simply, you can use anything from flashlight to diode to fluorescent to thermonuclear lighting to accomplish the lighting task and let the camera or computer figure it out. There is one caveat, make sure all lighting is the same; we call it temperature in the lighting world and you really need all your bulbs to have the same or relatively close light temps (this is NOT how hot they are) to allow the camera or computer to correct for it. For the kind of work we do, get bulbs the same wattage, same manufacturer, from the same store at the same time, and new. If you can find fluorescents (even the compact ones) make sure they have the color temp on them because they vary widely, from cold white to almost red. Don't buy them for lighting if they don't have the temp on them. Lighting is ofttimes more important than the camera, but is mucho simple with the softcube. Except for the camera, you can make everything out of PVC pipe and shower curtains or white sunbrella and electrical stuff, clamp on lights and reflectors from Lowes or Home Depot. This isn't smoke and mirrors anymore (although they can be used to some effect), and with leather, we don't have to combat reflections from bad lighting angles as much as with other hard objects. Sometimes the softcube will provide a little too even lighting, try a little direct light from the front to give it a little sparkle. A hint of shadow also helps to give some depth. If you can't do the softcube thing, then white chinese lanterns with bulbs in them (called chinaballs in the trade) will give you the soft light you need. Well, there you go, I went on too long again. Art

Hi Ed, Been using anything but white thread? Art

Hi Mike, It is not hard to get started as a sole prop. Bare minimum would be a checking account in your name. Retail sales tax license would help also, and allow you to use wholesale only suppliers. In TN they are going to be pretty aggressive about sales tax so file early and file often, they will finally get tired of all the zeros and allow you to file yearly. Try to sell something so you can charge sales tax and let TN see you are actually doing something. On the other side, just get a makers stamp and stamp everything, they can look you up in the phone book and you are off the radar until you can get some sales figures going. It is hard when starting to get enough in sales to overcome the expenses. The IRS gives you 5 years to do that so a business plan that projects that out 10 years will give you an idea of when to become "legal". Those 5 negative years will affect your adjusted if you have another income to support your startup, so that is an advantage. Art

Ed, The one up near the lube pot is the one to adjust, why they call it the Aux is beyond me, I call it primary because that is the one you use the most and has the presser foot release on it, the other one I don't use a lot. Them damned Chinese manuals. Art

Kevin, Oh they're easy to shoot, and if you put enough lead in them with a big enough gun you can kill 'em; however getting one of them SOBs out of the water after you kilt it can be almost more trouble than it's worth. On dry land they are remarkably fast when POed, and they are almost always POed. From that vantage point, $45 might be cheap! Art

Hi Ed, I don't have many problems from 207 to 346 and anywhere in between; maybe a little tweak on the top tension but no more than a turn. The secondary tension is the one on the head cover at the bottom of the head and that doesn't need much tension if any, a couple of wraps around it with the thread is all I have ever needed. You do need some tension in the bobbin but it should not be more than a pound or two of resistance. If anything you need less tension with chrome tan or softer leathers as they have considerable give and don't need to be pulled as tight. Tensions for Veg tan need to be a bit tighter, but not strung up like a banjo. I lube everything I sew on the big stitcher except the bobbin which I run dry. After you sew for a while, you can get the speed cranked up kinda high and even with a sharp needle the temp can get up there and maybe cause a skipped stitch, the lube keeps the needle cool and the thread doesn't stick to it. I don't think lube is your problem right now though, I just mentioned it because you did. Art

Hi Ed, You'd have to have the tension pretty darned tight. Fraying: Needle or thread path has a burr on it make sure hook is smooth, Bobbin tension too high causing overcompensation on top tension, Machine not threaded properly, Secondary tension set too tight (there should be minimal or no tension here), Needle too small (for 277 a 200/230 25/26 should work). There are other things, but they would give you trouble all the time not sporadically. Chrome tan is different than veg, veg is stiffer and self stabilizing whereas chrome tan is less stable and will tend to move around when it is going through the machine. Gluing layers together will give more stability and especially for only two layers. More layers will have more mass and will be more stable and easier to stitch. Sometimes a more aggressive bottom feed will get the material through better, like on the 618 or 797. Chrome tan and fabrics (not webbing because that is pretty stiff) are usually problems with big stitchers, however a blanket foot with a big set of feed dogs and needle plate to match can solve much of that problem. I use that setup on the 4000P to do custom elevator blankets. Most chrome tan (within thickness limitations) I sew on the 618. Art

Hi Dave, I assume the owner you are referring to is Jeff or maybe Donny? Funny, Jeff built and owns the "Angry Chair" which I think has a Lance Oscarson seat on it. I always thought the bike was cool, but I remember it for the one thing I didn't like which was the rice rocket handlebars, unless maybe it's a drag bile. However the best thing on the bike was Nicole. Art

I agree with Steve, But if it is an LR needle, it is one humdinger of a big one. It could also be a needle and awl machine like the Campbell with the awl turned to that position, I have done that before to make it look more like handwork. Also that would be one big honking awl, like maybe a 3 or 3 1/2. Art

Bill, If you stitch cartridge loops then a 4000R is a definite plus. If you need accessories, figure out what you need and then play "lets make a deal" when you purchase. Artisan is working on a needle positioning motor so that may also be an option (makes for faster positioning and turning when doing loops). Art

Hi Bill, The 4000P is a different casting with heavier parts and bearings and casting. Definitely a commercial machine for all day, every day kind of use and for sewing 7/8 leather; the 4000P is also quieter, probably because the casting is heavier . Is it better than the 4000R, well yes kind of, but I defy the average leatherworker to wear out the 4000R, much less the 4000P. Many of the parts are the same between the two. You might want to save some money with the 4000R if you aren't planning on constant use. If you don't need the extra 6 or 7 inches of arm, the 3000 is definitely the way to go. Art

Hi Bill, Did Steve tell you that they have a 3000 with a 25 inch arm? I think the price was right at $3000. They introduced this at Wichita Falls in October. The extra length comes in handy when you are doing things like cartridge belts and blankets and pads, the downside is it is one big puppy. The differences between the 3000 and 4000R is more metal for sure and an integral bobbin winder in addition to the 16 inch arm. I have the 4000P and it is a different animal altogether. Art

Hi Randy, That happens more than you think. Usually one of the wife's friends or one of my friend's wives that want something that no guy is ever going to use unless maybe they are from "Weird Eye for the Straight Guy" or something. Almost all are women and are very well intentioned, however I won't make anything like that as I just know the guy is going to hate it. I usually send them to the leather shop in the mall who imports tons of that stuff (they have to so they can make the rent each month) and not surprisingly, they can pretty much find what they need (or want). I have never had anyone pull out something like that and say look at the great wallet my wife got me for Christmas. I have a friend in Gatlinburg that deals in wallets and purses and he can find that kind of thing as he is the import walletmeister, but he doesn't make it either, it all comes from offshore. Art

Hi Steve, To answer your specific question in a very general way. The 618 is for thread size 138 and down, the 3000 is for thread sizes 207 and up. I'm not saying I couldn't set up the 618 for 207 thread or the 3000 for 138 or 92, but that's it generally. The 618 will sew up to 1/2 inch of leather, but I keep mine adjusted for less than 5/16. The reason for the two machines is the time required for setup at the extreme ends of their ranges. I can set the 618 up to sew 1/2 inch with 207 thread, but why readjust it for that when I can use the 3000 that is already adjusted for that range of leather. So yes, if you get serious, you will have both. Then you can pick up a Singer model 17 or 66 or 201 for the real light stuff fairly cheap. After a while you start acquiring machines because they were there and they looked so lonely and they talked to you, oh God. Art

Hi Pete, Bartolinis and 20 frets? What the heck is it? Art

Hi Hilly, A couple of questions. Are you using the Milwaukee store and are talking to Bill? With Tandy stores it is best practice to talk to the manager. In St. Paul talk to Jason and in Rapid City talk to Clay. Tandy managers are generally excellent in leatherworking and they know their stock, but more than that, they are better managers and if they are not satisfying your leather needs, let Jim Linnell know. Art

Hi Tony, Someone probably can, however a photo would be helpful. Art

Hi Hilly, There is Siegel of CA and if you have a tax number Weaver Leather. Both great places, but as always, order by phone, they all are much more reliable that way. I use the Tandy in Baltimore a lot and even if I order off the Web it goes to that store. They will call me if there is any question about my order and I generally get it the next day UPS. I have had a problem with every place I have ordered from very occasionally, the key thing is do they step up and fix it; the answer for the most part is yes. Use the phone and talk to someone, not something. Art

Hi Regg, What was, and now is the saddle worth? Next, how much in time and materials have you got in it? Art

Hi BB, First thing you have to make sure of is that there is the same relief between the bottom edge of the letters and the bottom of the background of the stamp, you just want to make sure that the letters will line up when you use the bottom of the stamp as a guide, a little sanding or grinding might be needed. Now for straight lines you can use a ruler or straight edge to line up the letters. When you are doing curves you obviously need a curved template. You can get these in various radius from lettering suppliers like Stahls or you can make them yourself out of LDPE sheet or other plastic. Just draw the radius on the plastic (or metal for that matter) and cut it out. It is handy to have a long vice to fit over your stamping block (like a 2x4 and a couple of big clamps) to hold the stamping template steady to the leather while stamping. Make sure you have a heavy table and block so you don't get any bounce or you will get a double stamp. Art

Hi Dave, While painful, as far as looks go, you could run your seats either side up, you do great work. Was "Angry Chair" a SPS bike? If so, I would offer it to the owner. Probably get more attention than sitting around the shop. Art

Hi Regis, It was over $7 a week or so before. They have had two bad quarters, and other question marks keep popping up, but whenever you have a large block trade on a stock like this that really doesn't have a lot of liquidity, the price will be affected. I hope that wasn't an insider trade as that would be a no no if rumors of purchasing Weaver turn out to be true. I'll try to find out more about this for you. Art

Hi Jim, Well now to handle the volume. Get in touch with one of the sales guys at Dyo Chemical. They make a line of leather finishes and can fill you in on your options. They can blend or duplicate and/or package most anything you want. You could also have something branded with the Atar or Salamander name that you could sell to customers. If you want something shiny, waterproof, flexible, and that breathes, ask for it. I use Pecard's for all my finishing that has to live in the weather, I don't go for the high shine thing so my experience is limited in that area. About the highest shine stuff I use is Tan Kote, RTC, or the Wax Finish from Bee Natural. Art

Well, it IS leather, if it was sheet metal you could have spray painted it and done a smooth and even finish, then it wouldn't look like leather. I love Peter Main's work but the color is way too even. Your background is excellent, you can see it is leather. And don't color the design, just my opinion. I am, as you may have noticed, a big proponent of character, it's what makes leather...well...leather. Art