Art

Wood is cut oversize to allow for drying, they are pretty accurate with this and almost all dried unfinished lumber for dimensional sizes is indeed dimensionally correct, in other words a 2x4 is 2" by 4" however when finished you usually lose 1/8" per side for hardwoods and 1/4" per side for softwoods. Not a lot to due with blade size more to do with the setting on the planer. Almost all softwoods are finished on 4 sides. but a lot of hardwoods are only finished on one of the wider sides. I have no idea why they would add another 1/16" to a cut size, when I get something cut at Weaver it is usually spot on or maybe just a hair over which I use-up edging and slicking. But Tandy advertises it or at least describes it so they must know something we don't. Art

Hi Pat, To do the job right, you need to put the reducer where the motor normally goes and then remount the motor. Tables usually come drilled for the motor, it has a standard mount and is always in the same place. When you tilt the machine to get underneath, you automatically loosen the belt, if you mount the speed reducer in any other postition, it nullifies this function and requires that you lift the needle end of the machine to disengage the belt. The speed reducer and an electric servo motor cost about the same give or take, it would be a whole lot easier to just swap motors (get a 500 watt (3/4hp) motor instead of the 400w (1/2hp) to make up for a little power loss). I understand what the guy is saying, if you do it right, YOU probably don't want to do it. If you have trouble understanding what I said above, then you really don't want to get into it. Just replace the motor, that's a simple wrench job. Art

No matter how old the dog, the ears still go up when the garbage truck goes by. Art

Hi Greg, The ASE (or ASC) No. 9 is what I call Daughter of Pearson. Nothing will ever be a Pearson but a Pearson. The No 9 is probably the "closest" to a Pearson, on everything after that they kept trying to "improve" the design. I know a few who have had the Ferdco 6/6 and they wern't all that happy with it after using my No. 9, good thing they never tried the Pearson. The No. 9 will do harness and belts all day long and never a complaint. I have never needed to motorize mine, it works effeortlessly. These machines are very easy to work on, jump foot, needle feed, cam driven, EZ. Grease, Oil and she's happy. One positive point for the Pearson clones, they are fitted with oscillating rotary shuttles which are easier to find parts for when you need them. I liked the old flat or curved race loom shuttles, although they can be scary as heck when you are throwing that much weight around quickly. Makes an impression that will keep you diligent about oiling shuttle races. One thing about the Pearson and the No. 9, I can make almost (for the pearson every) part on them on the mill or lathe and drill press. This with setups within my capabilities and tolerances (and 1938 vintage equipment). That becomes important when using older machinery. I guess the quality and utility of the Pearson is pretty much defined by the prices they bring. A good Pearson will bring as much as a brand new Classic. Art

Hi Pella, Make sure the thread take-up arm is in the full up position then loosen the lock on the stitch length lever and adjust the lever; you might have to turn a collar to adjust the lever. If all else fails, call Weaver and talk to Vern, or Ferdco and talk to Ron, they can help. Call Vern first, he deals Adlers. Art

Hi Ed, The Sailrite is not going to want to sew half inch stuff too often. The 441 will sew 32oz all day every day. The Sailrite is a light duty chap machine, it ain't the Baby Bull and the motor is much smaller than the 1/2 horse that most shop machines have. Get the biggest flywheel (might be extra cost) to get more power. There is a Sailrite store in Ft. Lauderdale if you are close, I would take some leather over and see how it performs. Art

Hi Ed, The 15 came in different flavors from 15-1 to 15-120 or so, some had a full rotating hook and most had finger type bobbins. Some had drop feed and some didn't, some had reverse and some didn't. The Pfaff 130 has standard foot, no needle feed, but is zigzag. I have only seen one with a 110 needle and a 120 is bare minimum for 138 poly (130 for 138 nylon). I can't tell you for sure so I guess maybe? I know most of us are part timers in leatherwork, but even there a sewing machine is a lifetime investment. It's nice to get a great machine at a great price, but pros buy their primary machines new and keep their eyes open for good cheap used equipment for their second and third machines. My portable weighs 170# (just the head) so, if I though I really needed a portable, I would go out and buy the LSZ because I know that is the last portable I will have to buy (if it doesn't go overboard in 100ft of water). The first machine I bought (I researched a few different ones), I spent a LOT of time on before I bought, I really wanted to get the right one, and I was still looking at Sheridan, I went to Campbell, Luberto, Weaver, Ferdco, Artisan, and a few clone folks with no name and I still couldn't make up my mind. Prices, features, quality, service, all confusing. I'm dragging the wife to all these vendors and for two or three days on and off she watched me. Finally at the 11th hour she who must be obeyed grabs me and hauls me over to Jerry at Artisan and says what is the best big machine you have, and he starts realing off a speil about the 4000P, she interrupts him and says two words, "best price", at that point in time he could have said $6000 and it wouldn't have mattered, she said, "write him a check, you now have a sewing machine". I asked her why Artisan, and she said, "They were the closest to the front door". If she had let me go, I probably would still be looking. She of course was right, for a straight stitcher, the only real important thing is to have one, buy the best you can afford and you will have it forever and if you need to sell, you can probably get what you paid for it. My recomendation is to buy the LS if you can afford it, or save-up till you can. If you are going on the road, you need something light that can do the job. If you are looking for a new toy, then the used market is great, but wait till something crys out to you "take me or they will throw me away", and be absolutely ready to walk away if the price isn't right. My way more than 2 cents, sorry. Art

Hi Ed, Sailrite is expensive but they sell hardware to DIY guys not to pros although a lot of pros use the LS machines as portables, however they do customize that machine heavily and you would pay the same to by the base machine and put the custom parts on it; the base machine is a Brother I think. On the bigger machines you can save money buying elsewhere. Like I've said before, the Singer 15, 31, 66, and 201 don't have walking foot, but the Navy used the 31s heavily for years, ship and shore. Art

Hi Ed, With sails and canvas you use big long lockoffs and you don't try to hit the holes like you do with leatherwork. If locking off by machine I usually go back one or two at the most. If you use the right thread/needle combo, they will hold, however thread locker (superglue or other) is ok, but make sure you are not sloppy or you will have problems when dyeing. Now the way I usually do it is to leave long tails (I usually hold them to the side and make sure you don't run over them) and then either use a pair of harness needles or a crochet hook to run the tails back through a couple of holes. With large thread things can get tight but it has a nicer appearance. On the starting hole it is hard to lock off with the machine and not have it look bulky or even catch on the needle plate. You can try starting in reverse one or two holes from where you want the end hole and then reverse after you get the first two stitches in. You HAVE to hold the tails to the side to keep from getting tangled. A lot of this is just learning to sew leather and the first difference is usually that we see the stitches in leather more readily than in fabric. This is why Sailrite may have seemed a little nonchalant about their lockoffs. Art

Hi Ed, The Kenmore looks a lot like a Singer 15. The Pfaff is a gem (well that model anyway). He wants more than I would pay for either. If you can find a Singer 15-91 or so or a 31 cheaper, I would go that way. Art

You can get Lynhanl nylon at Artisan: http://www.artisansew.com Coats poly in smaller sizes and putups at SFS (ask for Dan Bussey) 1-800-526-3892 Sailrite will have a ton of 92 in white http://www.sailrite.com There's a zillion others. Please try to copy the message you are questioning so we will know who should answer whatever. Art

I have used infinity and they are good if you know what you want. I also use Jeff Mosby at Grey Ghost Graphics who can give you more of a graphic artist's perspective and you can talk to him and he will put your idea in a stamp. Jeff sends approval artwork before he executes the stamp. Call Him. http://www.greyghostgraphics.com/ Art

Hi Regis, The 15 will be a good choice too. The Singer 31-15, 7-33, 111-150 thru 155 and the Consew 99R(-3) (zigzag) were standard equipment in Navy survival equipment shops (parachutes and harnesses etc). There was also the 211 which was a newer version of the 111. You could have all of those machines in perfect order for under the cost of a new big stitcher and sew darned near anything (including sheet metal with the 7-33 if you had to). Air Force used some of the same stuff but tended toward newer models. This is circa late 60's, I don't know what they use today. Art

Hi again Regis, The Singer 31 was a tailor's machine and is a great machine, however no walking foot. You should be able to get a 31, or a 201 (no walking foot either) with a bazillion accessories and feet (that is the way they were sold as a general purpost machine that would do most anything around the house) for no more than $150, that would be in very, very good condition, top condition. On eBay there are a few guys who ghost bid these things up and I have seen them go for $600 or even more, so be careful. With the 201s they have direct drive motors, so burning one up will cause a little bit of a headache, not that bad though. The model 66 was around at this time also and can do light leather work. If you are getting into the $500+ range for a machine it should be a good solid Pfaff 545 or the like or a new Sailrite if you want a portable. Art

Hi Regis, Given those constraints, the Sailrite LS-1 Ultrafeed at about $550 is the best bet. For an extra $250 you can get the LSZ-1 which has a zigzag capability also. These machines are on-the-go machines and spend a lot of time in canvas and upholstery trucks. Sailright's other machines are based on the Singer 111 (you probably can't name a company that hasn't knocked that one off) which is not quite portable. Art

Hi _____, (your name here) The "normal" thread size for the hole the 120 needle makes is 69 or 92 and even 138 with a tight wound poly. Now the question will be how the Brother will like that big thread. Size 69 should definately be doable and I have run Coats 138 through a Singer 201 without any complaints. However, remember that the 40s-50s era Singers were made to be general purpose household machines that would end up sewing everything from lingerie to drapery, jeans, towels, and canvas. That's why you occasionally see old 66's and 201s sewing light leather. Today's machines are much tighter and less capable of sewing heavy materials due to plastic parts and multiple stitch control. You'll have to judge where your brother falls in the scheme of things. Art

HI Ed, Honestly, I don't know if it makes much difference, I just know that is the way one of mine is (I took it apart to check). Art

Hi Ed, On the shuttle race back, any bevel should go outward. Art

Hi Johanna, I kinda got converted to gmail about 2 years ago and have never looked back, I still have outlook (not OE) and occasionally I bring it up and suck everything out of gmail. Google gives you enough space and I have tried to fill it up, but the next day I seem to have 2 gig more than I need. Yeah, Google searches your mail and suggests links, but honestly some of those links I never would have found AND are revelant to what I am interested in; and if you think you can expect privacy in any email system, forgetaboutit. Have NEVER received anything from Google saying "Sorry, we had a terrible calimity and lost some of your mail", and the search capabilities whip most anything. Art

Bill Buchman 63312 South Road Bend, Oregon 97701 541-382-8851 Art

Hi again Pete, I haven't found the small Olfa cutters to be much good, but the large ones (I have a 2.5 inch one that I picked-up at an quilting convention) will cut leather pretty well especially 6oz or less but even 9/11oz, but really great for 3/4oz stuff. They are also great for shaving a small sliver off and leaving a pretty clean cut. Garment leather cuts like butter with one. Outside radius cuts are pretty easy but inside forgetaboutit. Use a round punch for insides. Art

The Tandy ones are Aluminum not stainless. The screws that hold the blade strip easily, and I mean easily. Not much different from the wooden ones, although much heavier. I prefer the draw gauge to them, I just seem to be able to use it better. Art

Hi Pat, If you do make a living from leatherwork, you will be one of the three or less percent that do. Most of us that do leatherwork either hold a full or semi-full time job (day job) or are retired, or are both. Anything we make is gravy, or a way to justify the tools etc. for someone near you who does it for a living try: Phil LeDuc Stonehedge Leather Co. 1967 Abbott Street San Diego, CA 92107 1-888-805-9690 cowcutter@aol.com His is a storefront business, not a home business. To be sucessful, you will have to devote half of your time to leatherwork, half to promotion, and half to running the business; you do the math. It is reasonable to expect that you would specialize in some discipline and I can name a few: Saddlery and tack (to include canine and feline), Handbags and Luggage, Holsters and Cowboy gear (can combine with duty gear), Duty Gear (police equipment) BDSM and Fetish gear, Upholstery (furniture, automobile, motorcycle, different disciplines really), High Art, Re-enactment gear. Any one of the above can work out ok, but a good solid knowlege of the field is a must not only to produce high quality gear, but for promotion and rapport with customers. You also have to have the chops to make good quality gear or you will get wipped by someone importing Asian junk. The only real way to compete is with quality or novelty, and if you come-up with something novel, the Asians will knock it off in a heartbeat. It will be much harder to promote and market whatever you do then it will be to make it. Don't even think of manufacturing in quantity until you can sell everything you can make. College courses in marketing at the local CC will help a lot as business is business. Basic leatherworking skills and knowlege in your discipline are you most expensive assets, machines will make you faster, not better, but faster will be necessary if you are going to make life easier. To answer all your questions would require a book which I am not up to right now. I'm in the 97%, I have a day job. Art

I like the D needles for "in-line" stitches, or the LR (reverse twist) that gives you that "up-hill" stitch like Hermes uses, some say it mimics hand stitching. If you use a stitching groove, I have heard you can just use an R (round) needle. Never tried it. Art

There is also an animal out there called Gimp and it's free. It is really very good. Go here is you want to look it over: http://www.gimp.org/ It is multi platform and comes as source, but good news, there are compiled windows versions and runtime and docs here: http://gimp-win.sourceforge.net/stable.html Art