Art

I use #9 brass rivets with burrs when I want something to last past the next comming, but they are hard to put in and harder to remove. Copper burr rivets are much easier. Stainless Steel tubular rivets are also quite strong. On the burr rivets, you clip them off to the length you need, with burr rivets you have to have a size about an 8th inch longer than the thickness. I used to use the jiffy rivets on boy scout projects but the scouts would pop them in a jiffy (pun intended) so we started using tubular rivets or chicago screws (with loctite®) or in rare cases burr rivets for heavy duty stuff; no more failures. Art

Hi Ron, A Round or Head knife is a wonderful thing, they can make one think they have arrived in leatherworking. I have 7 for God only knows what reason so maybe I think I have "arrived". That being said, I could probably get by with two knives well maybe three; a very sharp and honed box cutter, a surgical scalpel with #10 blades, and something I call a "clicker knife" with the curved or hook blade, all for about $30. Keeping it all sharp might run anywhere from $20 up. You can have all that for the cost of an Osborne Head Knife which won't be sharp enough when you take it out of the box. I know guys that get along perfectly well with just the box cutter although they keep them way sharper than they come out of the box, the "clicker knife" is great for inside corners (curves) and the scalpel for delicate and inside angle cuts although you can get larger handles and blades for most anything. If you are doing production and need speed, get a clicker and dies. Art

Hi Bruce, A singer pro I am not. I can tell you a little but for any details get with industrial at 503-759-4373. The 66s have a horizontal bobbin system which I don't like for larger thread; anything over 69 or 92 might be a problem. The 66 was made from the 20s on so there must be a ton of parts for them (or just pick-up a spare machine). The machine is beefy by today's standards and no plastic gears or parts, cranks and rods are fairly large and if tight should handle even 6 or 7 oz and maybe a little more depending more on the needle size and what you can get under the foot than the machine. The 66 uses the 15X1 which is pretty std and easy to find anywhere although you might have to order it in spear point. A 21 (140) needle is pretty beefy for 69 thread and makes me think you might be able to use a 138 thread if you can get enough tension in the top, you will have to experiment here. I wouldn't worry about hurting it beyond repair on the head, I would worry more about that carbon foot control but again it probably wasn't used enough to worry about, if it breaks, replace it. The 31s were a little better but pretty much the same except for a better bobbin. Both are garment machines so leather wasn't their intended use, the 31 is a little beefier. Their true value is that they can be picked-up cheap and they work, but they sure aren't a 1245. Keep in mind the 66 is and was designed as a home machine and the 31 is a tailor's machine, although back in the day, home machines were designed to be used heavily and on a wider variety of materials from jeans to silk. Don't know about the roller foot, call industrial about that. For sewing close to the edge, use the smallest needle and thread you can get away with, it will produce the neatest job, rely on glue for strength. Teflon coated or titanium needles are good here also if you can get them, especially if glue is not quite dry. Neither the 66 or the 31 are antiques and there are bazillions of them out there, the machines should be inexpensive and the cases or stands should drive the price, with a treadle being more the curiosity and demanding a higher price. Be careful with 31s as they may be well used (up). A 66 will usually have decals, 31s will not usually have much decaling if any. Art says it is ok to play with your 66, and if you do break it, any local guy can fix it, he probably worked on one at school. For all the guys out there, when the wife drags you into an antique store, ask if they have any sewing machines and if they don't, leave (wife will learn to do this automatically). Look at all the antique sewing machines in detail, playing with them and snooping to learn as much as you can, wife will let you alone and is apparently happy to look at all the other crap for hours. Take a small digital camera with you as you will never remember all the makes and models you will see. Also take a flashlight as those places aren't well lighted for a reason. If the wife doesn't like antiques (or just antique stores) consider yourself lucky and find yourself another interest. Art

Hi Grace, Ethyl Acetate, more accurately Acetic Acid Ethyl Ester. Used to be an ingredient in some deglazers. You might call Fiebing and see if they can help. If you find it, use it outside. Art

Hi Susan and Welcome to Leatherworker.net, There were many leather machines that were treadle operated and were in the West doing leatherwork from the 1880's on. However, the average treadle machine is most definately a garment machine, which with a good needle will do garment leather. The primary differences are: The leather machines had greater reduction for more power, The leather machines had multiple feeds to advance two or more layers of leather without the bottom getting ahead of the top, The leather machines would handle larger thread and mostly linen, and in that vein the metals were metallurgically softer, and the new nylon and poly threads will cause wear on them. The smallest size needle I use is a metric 90 or 100 (that's a 14 or 16 Singer) for size 69 thread and a size 16 probably won't fit most Singer (Home Treadle) needle bars, much less being able to find the right system or a spear point needle in that system. That being said, if you have one around, you can play with it and it might work, but once you get over 2 or 3 oz doubled it won't be at all satisfactory. Use a wedge tip needle (might be called a leather needle). Art quote from Susan Hi Art, Thanks so much for the info, another person also suggested leatherworker.net so I"m going to check them out in just a few minutes. Since you moderate the leather sewing machines forum, can you tell me if there is any possibility of using a tredle type sewing machine to sew leather or does it have to be specifically a leather machine? I know my regular machine won't do it, but I wasn't sure about the tredle, it seems like a heavier machine. Thanks so much! Susan

Hi Matt, Deglaze the surface with Isopropyl Alcohol or Deglazer. Try to use Isopropyl if it does the job as deglazer is quite strong and needs ventilation. Isopropyl has some water in it that opens the pours to receive the dye. Wet if you don't use something with water, not soaking wet. I immerse in pro oil dye thinned with denatured ethyl alcohol by about 1/3 (regular Fiebings leather dye works here also). If I don't have a lot of a dye hanging around I use a sponge wrapped in a lint free rag and rub (slop) the dye on. I keep doing this till the color looks dark enough. For a very even finish, spray the dye, but go with immersion if there are places you may have trouble spraying; immersion almost always works. But the big thing is to get all the surface oil and hand oils off the leather before dyeing, that is what the alcohol does. Art

A dye I use (haven't used it in a while) on period holsters and knife sheaths is boiled walnut hulls. You need to boil them in an iron pot (or throw a piece of iron in a stainless pot) to fix the dye. This is a water based dye and works well but is a little light. You might be able to make it darker by boiling more hulls or concentrating by boiling. You will have to oil after dyeing as this stuff takes the oil out of the leather big time. This dye, some oil, and the sun turn out a nice natural product. Application is by immersion, and leave it in a few minutes, it is not a real quick dye. Art

Hi Bomb, I do crease the grain (just the top for D&S) with a screw crease. I also have a "bump" on the center presser foot on some of my machines that pushes the thread down a little. I will crease with a screwcrease and then go back over it with a regular crease to make really deep grooves on ranger belt billets and even go over them with a wheel after stitching so that the belt buckle won't wear the stitches. You can also go after the back edge of the buckle with a felt bob on a foredom or dremel to smooth them a bit if needed, although it will wear the plating off. Most buckles are ok from the plating process, and don't need relief. Art

Hi Tex, Sorry I got complicated. Capitalization is just the money you put up (that you already paid taxes on) to start your business. Never lose track of it because it is your money and none of it belongs to US. It is very handy for things like retaining earnings without paying taxes on them. Also a good little slush fund you can just "draw" against and not pay self-employment taxes. I have the distinct fortune (or misfortune) of having a better half that has been in the CPA business for 35 years, overall it has been a real help, and it has to be done right for her professional ethics reasons. I showed her the article in LCSJ and while it didn't confuse her, she agreed with my impression that they were making this a lot harder than it really is. She says that things do get complex when you run a business that has really grown over the years as a sole proprietorship, but a business with 10 to 20 emplayees can be managed without a lot of fuss. Probably something most of us are not going to experience, it would take all the fun out of it. Art

Another thing about scrap. Don't let the dog get into it. Rawhide is ok, but veg tan or most other tans give them some problems. I don't know if it will kill them, but it can make them barf all over the floor. I keep it up off the floor but they can snatch a piece off the desk if you leave the room, mine takes it and hides it so she can work on it later; sneaky little b****. Art

Hi Blake, Youse guys better watch your deductabizing stuff. If you have a business then the scrap has already been expensed when purchased or when it was generated from a job. My salary is already expensed when I pay myself from the business so time is never deductable for any reason. The expenses are deductable so you can't donate them and claim them again, however they are income if you sell them. The only thing I get away with on Scouts is mileage and occasionally meals. However, you do not have to claim the value of the good will. What the business makes is income and what it spends (including salary and taxes) is expenses and after that; well there ain't very much of after that so I'll draw that off of capitalization or retain it against capitalization so it's not taxed either way (capitalization was taxed before it went in). Just don't give them stuff to bitch about because then they go back six years looking for it. They understand income and expenses and that donations are expenses, just let Sammy have his and play by the rules. Been there and done that and don't need it happen again. Art

Oiling is beneficial to the leather, like once or twice a year, overoiling will destroy the leather. When the wepon touches the leather and then you move around, you will wear the gun. If you had a film of oil it might offer some protection, however the leather will soak this up. If you could maintain a film of oil, the wepon would not be retained well by the leather which is the whole point. If I have to take the wepon out of the holster, I am more concerned about it working than how it looks, a little holster wear is inevitable. Art

This is true, a big machine can be setup to sew small, but a small machine will not handle big work at all. Now for the deal, Johanna has a Singer 153w103; that means US made walking foot compound feed machine that she isn't using. I think you should be able to get into something like that for what you are willing to pay for the HF machine and stand. With proper care, your kids will be using it after you are gone. There are a lot of 153s and 154s out there, 111s are also good machines but lighter duty but would work for bags and such. On 111s, they are used by tentmakers and canvasworkers so they can and often are used-up, just be careful. The machine Johanna has is probably in good shape. PM her and see if she still has it. Art

Hi William, This is kind of the Wal-Mart version (meaning they really cut costs) of the 618. The pictures in the manual don't show a needle feed or walking foot, but I looked at the parts lists and it has the right parts for it. However it could work for you but has some basic differences. First, this will need to be setup and installed. There might be some shipping protectant on it that will have to be removed, maybe not, but I hope they shipped it with some protection. It might be in time and might not, it will probably run but you should know how to time it. This machine does not have some of the things a 618 does. I did not see an overload clutch, I really like to see this with lighter machines that sew leather. If you get this, learn to retime it. They also eliminated a lot of gear in the thread path, why?. One big difference is they have eliminated the speed reducer, and with a clutch motor (they show a 3450 rpm motor in the manual) it will go like a bunny, like a bunny with it's tail on fire. You might be able to get away with just replacing the clutch motor with a servo motor, but low end torque will be missing. 135x17 needles generally don't come with leather points, you will want 135x16 D or Tri needles, you may have to retime when switching to them but not necessarily. I looked at the manual and it doesn't look anything like the ones for the 618, probably from a different factory. I would definately find out what bobbin and hook it has and if it has a thread finger for larger thread, make sure hooks and bobbins and cases are available and fairly priced. Personally, I wouldn't buy one without seeing it and using it. See if HF can get you the numbers of someone in your area that is using one. They do have HF retail stores and you might see if one of these have one set up. I have seen this model sold for $999 plus shipping on eBay, although the Dealer is also important. I think you can get one (a real 618 sc 1 set-up for leather) on your driveway and add 15 minutes to put the head and belt, the lights and thread stand on and you're sewing for $1700. Art

Hi Gesa, I know folks around here who consider English tack life threatening when it does hold together. Art

Hi Bruce, Walt Goldsmith did most of the production for Olsen-Nolte after Al passed. I think Olsen-Nolte still exists although in San Carlos as opposed to the Opera House in San Francisco (on Third, about 4701 in the Bayview district), they are the same company so maybe they have an archive? Attached is a Walt Goldsmith (not Olsen-Nolte) My Campbell is from the Olsen-Nolte shop when they were in San Fran. Art

Hi Ed, You will ruin a set of ruler dies that way, I have seen mallet dies that are made to do that although none that size. They hare quite robust and have a striking handle welded to the top of the die. Art

Hi Jim, Sand if needed, then Dye, Gum, Bag Kote, Tan Kote, Lexol, any breathable finish, I use Bag, but Gum Trag is a good finish too, and it is natural. Art

Hi Bruce, There are a lot more experts here than me, but the overall lines and the carving look like Al Nolte or maybe Kelly Rowell or John Olsen or Walt Goldsmith. Of those I think Rowell or Goldsmith are your best bets. Art

Hi Ed, Well, that may work well for thinner thread, but going over the same area three times with 346 will leave a pretty big mass of thread. Going backwards to start works pretty well, but you must keep your thread tails to the side and of course hold them tight and together. I usually don't back tack more than a couple of stitches; Needle in first hole, needle in second hole and up a little, shift into forward and continue. It helps to have three hands to do this two to hold the work and thread and one to wheel it. Conversely, if you have a servo motor you can crank that thing down on low speed and you only need two hands. If you have a machine without reverse you can start going the other direction and do a couple stitches then stop needle down and pivot the work 180° and continue sewing. Remember to keep the tails to the side of the work. On the Campbell you do the same thing or run a real tight loop and cross over and lock the starting point of your stitches, but you still have to lock them when stopping. I have also seen operators manually lift the work and position back a half a hole or so to lock. Now, when you use big thread and you lock you can build up a large amount on the underside which can and will catch on the edge of the hole/slot for the needle in the needle plate. This will keep the leather from advancing even with the needle feed and screw up a bit. You have to lift the leading edge of the leather up to clear this edge. You can relieve this edge and provide a more gradual transition (polishing here helps too) to exit the needle slot. It you do relieve this edge make sure to blunt it just a little afterwards as you don't want it knife sharp. Art

Hi Wayne, Probably not, you will have to try it. When I say gum the flesh side, I mean to use Gum Tragacanth to finish the back, lay the fibers down as you go along. Then another coat after first dries. You can use Pecards after that. Another way (not my favorite) is to seal the back with lacquer or poly. Art

Hi Johanna, I will wet the stitch line and "bone" the line to close-up the holes right after stitching. Maybe pounding on them would accomplish the same thing? I don't think it has anything to do with strength, just makes it look better. Art

Hi Ed, Yes the screw on the bobbin case is a lock and the screw on the tension plate sets the tension. Loosen the lock, adjust the tension, tighten the lock. Art

Hi Stephanie, Bob Beard, by far the best, just best for my hand, feels right, Barry King, excellent and I keep small blades in it, Henley, these are really good and come in many diameters and knurls, Chuck Smith, worked for Bob Beard, copied his knife, great knife also, I have mine somewhere but I think the dog is using it and won't give it back, Tandy Al Stohlman Brand (ASB), if you like a really heave knife, this one is pretty good but definately look for it on sale. I have all of these, a couple of some, blades don't always interchange among them, I use Beard and King the most, Dog likes the Smith, won't give it back. Bob's knives will take about 6 to 9 months to get, Barry's you can pick-up at the shows, Smith's also, Tandy at the Stores. These knives are very personal so if you can pick them up in person and try them out it would be better. Bob makes the best blades around, steel not ceramic. All this is my opinion only. Art

In North Carolina they don't want to hear about no stinking California! Art