Art

Hi Ed, Thread tension is too tight when you cannot get enough top tension to pull the lock up into the leather or when you have to use every bit fo the top tension to do so. You should try to run as low a bobbin tension as you can (within reason here) to cut down on wear. If you are damaging thread then yes the tension is too high or something else is wrong. You should be able to pull the bobbin thread from the machine with some resistance. With smaller machines that have removable bobbin cases you can yo-yo test them and it they go all the way to the floor you need more tension, settings for large thread will not work (well then again they might) for small thread. Like everything there is a range that works because you have adjustments to compensate. I don't think anyone would say you can't use a 23 needle with a 441, and if someone wants to run a 16 with 69 thread it could be setup to do that also. If you can stick a needle in the needlebar then within reason, you should be able to set the machine up to sew. The limit of 207 on the Ferdco 2000 may be a limit as it is set up from Ferdco, and they sell to a market that wants to push the pedal and make it go, not necessarily pull the hook out, most of those machines only get oil (if that). When I was considering a big stitcher 4 or 5 years ago I asked Ferdco to send me a manual which I read, I was negatively impressed by the statement that if the machine needed timing to call them. I like to understand the machines I use and their philosophy and mine diverged at that point, but I am not like most of their users and probably 90% of their users are happy with the hands off stance, I am in the other 10%. On needles, you may not find sizes 15, 17, or 20 as they are five sizes like 95, 105, and 125 metric, most distributors carry the 10 sizes 100 thru 250 although 100 and 110 might be a little scarce in 794. Also they have a D or Tri point needle available that might work a little better for you than the S. Art

Hi Bob, I've never stripped a thread in one, the head always rounds off before I get that far. They must not heat treat them at all. American tools (hex keys, screwdrivers, sockets, or box wrenches) bugger-up those Chinese screws all the time, but then American screws (and German) will mess-up Chinese tools. Even Chinese tools mess-up Chinese screws, and if you ever see a phillips or cross point screw in anything from China, replace it because you have one chance to put it in and one to (maybe) take it out. Also, if anyone wants to work on their machine, get a good set of American Metric hex keys, the metric are the only ones that fit metric screws, some of the inch sizes seem to fit but really don't. Now for a real vocabulary exercise, try and remove a Chinese screw with threadlocker on it (well it wouldn't stay tight would it, so someone used Loctite on it). Art

Hi Ed, I like Bob's explanation also. I sew all day (when I can get into the shop) with Rice 138 nylon and a 21 needle or Coats 138 poly and a 19 needle. I never (oh boy I hope I don't live to regret this) skip stitches, however my 618 is setup for a 21 needle, and a 19 doesn't seem to cause any alignment problems (hook/needle). Your 441 may have been setup for a 26 needle and a 23 might be a nats hair too far, especially if it was a loose 26 setup. I have mine (4000P) setup pretty tight for a 26 and I can use a 25 or a 24 ok (seldom do) but I haven't tried a 23, I just run a 230 (26) needle for 207 to 346 and it works fine. Even 415 works with the 230 and is real tight and very consistant. However, all this only works if the needle is in correctly and threaded properly. Everyone who hasn't done so should take their machine when running and stitching well and take the thread out (top and bobbin), take the needle plates and feet off, and look at the alignment of the shuttle/hook as you slowly pull the machine through, this only takes a couple of minutes to do, the relationship of hook to needle is important and you should be able to eyeball this and see that it is correct. Put a bigger needle in and see if it is still correct, put a lot smaller needle in and see how this relationship changes. The bigger needle may strike the hook or skim it and I have seen machines that run well this way (skimming), but smaller, two or three sizes smaller, can leave a lot of room in there. Some machines tolerate this better than others. But there is a big difference between a 19 and a 21 and a 23 and a 26. So set your machine up for the needle range you use most or do like I did, get two machines (or 3 or 4 or 5 or 6). There is not a setup that will cover #16 to #27 needles for 69 to 415 thread, there is always going to be a range that works acceptably and only one that will be dead on. Ok, so they say their machine will sew however thick sole bends to a dollar bill with no adjustments (other than some minor tension adjustments), and they can prove it at the shows, just don't try and change the thread or needle so it looks nice or it might start skipping stitches......or worse! Now some really good news: Artisan Dave has joined leatherworker.net and works with Jerry and Steve at Artisan. Since he has been in the sewing machine business for 35 years prior to joining Artisan this past January and knows about Consew, Mitsubishi and a bunch of others probably better than most, he will be an asset here. I'll let Dave blow his own horn when he is ready, but if you have some questions about Artisan equipment, give Artisan Dave a shout direct through leatherworker.net or at Artisan if it is not something easy someone here will know right off the bat. Art

Hi Regis, I don't think 100° F would cause much of a problem although swings in humidity from very dry to very humid could cause problems; in a car or shed is probably not the best. The biggest culprit is definately sunlight, or UV. Art

Hi Ed, Luke is right, the first thing to try is a smaller needle, an 18 (110) or 19 (120) might be ok for Coats poly, but for Lynhanl or other nylon, you might need a 21 (140). Size 23 (160) is way big for that thread (138) and the hole the needle makes is probably not holding the thread tight enough. The absolute FIRST thing to do when having a problem is to put a new needle of the correct size in the machine. Also, get a lube pot. Then we need to know: What machine, Make and Model What thread, Make and number or name, size top, size in bobbin What needle, Make and number or size What material you are sewing. Chinese hooks and shuttles aren't bad and it will take some grand amount of sewing to wear them out (assuming a little basic oiling), replacing major parts is the last thing you want to do. Chinese parts are not a bad thing necessarily, Japanese and American parts are important if you are going to run a machine hard (still got to oil it though). Thread (modern) will last years if kept away form the sun in a stable environment (and I don't mean out in the barn), lubing it always helps. Bobbin thread can get old much quicker as it is wound on a tighter circumference and can take a little set especially toward the end of the bobbin. Ten year old thread kept in a box in reasonable temp and humidity is perfectly useable although it won't have the advantages of advances it the industry that the new thread will have. The 794s is available in Schmetz, Organ, and Groz Beckert from 100s to 250s (16 to 27 Singer) at least, maybe smaller. Not many places carry the 100s in the 794s but 120s are very available. Size 100 in a 794 machine is really going to get abused as are 120s, kind of like putting an allison motor in a mini-cooper. You will break smaller needles and you MUST find all of the needle; if you can't you will have to check the shuttle race to make sure it's not in there as it can gaul up the race pretty bad. I like Schmetz brand for availability and hardness, I feel the Organs are a little soft for what I do. Needless to say I break more Schmetz and bend more Organs. You can get Schmetz from Artisan and Organ from Ferdco. I don't know who is handling Groz Beckert, but they are good also. Art

There are two types of Barge generally available, General Purpose (contact) and Rubber. The rubber cement is designed to be somewhat temporary, the general purpose is a contact cement and is quite permanent. There is also Tanners bond from Fiebing that is a white glue that dries clear and is quite permanent and is much less volitle (little in the way of fumes). Barge can reavtivate with a heat gun, Tanners Bond does not. Chemicals can be confusing as they get trade names that come into common use. When we say Barge, we mostly mean General Purpose (or contact) cement. Herman Oak (HO) and Wickett and Craig are the only two vegetable tanneries left in the US. HO sells 10 skin minimums and W/C has an outlet for single skins. Siegel of California handles good leather from all over and has great variety and excellent quality, they have a Friday weekly special that is good (sign up on their website) and their skirting and sholders are very good. Art

Hi Vince, Consew makes a good machine, however they are made in China now not Japan. Reliable machine up to 18oz or so, and more with adjustments, maybe up to 28-30 oz occasionally. Use a speed reducer and/or a servo motor for best results with leather. The $1000 is not a bad deal, $1100 if you really want it, but you might have to spend $150 on a reducer and another $150 on a servo motor if it doesn't have one. Art

Hi Peter, Use left twist on everything but curved needle machines. I lube my linen thread with a paraffin based wax lube that I get from Campbell. I don't wax the bobbin, but you could. Art

Hi Spencer, You are on the edge there. Better to buy a Ferdinanad 900 B instead for $700 more and you will have a good machine that will sew most anything, forever. Artisans are excellent machines, they have been around for over 10 years at least and folks like Gomer and Bob Loveless (and a lot of other big names) use them. On the Artisan 3000, there are a couple of things to keep the price down, like there is no intergal winder on the machine head (on the stand instead, runs off of the belt drive), and a little cheaper stand. Whatever you get, make sure it has a servo motor, a lube pot, and casters on the stand. Art

Hi Julie, It wouldn't be productive here to get into who has the BEST machine. I have Artisans, I would not trade my 4000P for any other needle and thread machine. The 618 I would give up for a Pfaff 545 twin. Now you need a machine and I will give you the Artisan line, the 4000P is great, 7/8" or so in normal trim, if you make a presser foot height adjustment, it will do over an inch easily (don't forget to adjust it back of regular sewing). Big strong machine. The Artisan 4000 (no P) is a Juki 441 clone that will do the job on most anything, it sews 3/4" and can do more (again with adjustments). The Artisan 3000 is a smaller less expensive version of the 4000, they are very similar except for the winder, parts (except shafts) are pretty much the same. You can get the 3000 for under $2000 on your doorstep and setup is put the head on the stand and the belts on the head and you're rocking. I have recommended this to many and never had a complaint, and will do so now; however look at the little bit extra for the 4000 as that longer arm and extra room are sometimes helpful. Adler 205s are wonderful machines if you can afford it, a little less room than a Juki, but the Germans always built great tanks and this is one of them. If you buy a Ferdco 2000 Pro you will be getting just what you are asking for, a great machine. They seldom have problems and they can diagnose, ship a part, and help you fix it over the phone (they can't ship the part over the phone but if they could they would), and they don't mind doing it. You will hear Juki 441 a lot, this is a big Juki that was the basis for many leather machines, it requires some modifications to be good for leather sewing and was originally the basis for the Ferdco 2000 Pro (some of the old ones circa 1997 and before still have the Juki logo on the headcover). Most of the clones have these modifications built into the new casting designs. The Consew 754 was also used as a base machine and the Ferdinand Bull 900 was a good example, fine machine if you find one, 14" throat and a jump foot like the old days and a true tank, expect to pay about $3200 for a good one, and you wouldn't go wrong. I have listed new machines and unless you are experienced or rely on an experienced seller, new is probably the best way to go for a first machine. As you learn more, your next machine could be used as with proper maintenance (oil it) you can't make enough saddle in a lifetime to wear one of these out, only a production sewing manufacturer can manage that if they don't do reasonable maintenance (maintenance is skilled man hours and they quickly add up to the cost of a new machine, so yes, there are people who don't do good maintenance). The best thing you can do is go to a major show where they will have machines (Sheridan is the best, although Ferdco has a big todo at Pendelton) and try all these machines out (they all will have leather there but go over to Herman Oak and get some of their samples to test with). A little heads-up; Ferdco is not very good at selling at shows, they just do not engage customers, and they really don't want to deal or apparently sell machines. That being said, they make good machines, but turned me off twice at shows; be patient with them and try to talk to someone who can make decisions. With Artisan Steve and Jerry will be there (only Steve at minor shows like IFoLG) they are both great and if you want to push a deal, talk to Jerry (Steve knows more about the machines though). Vern Weaver will have at least an Adler or maybe one of their own new machines (looks like an Adler/Juki mixed breed) at Sheridan, it's high dollar, but might be worth it if you cut a deal for an Efka motor and foot lift with it. I'd dearly like to take one apart and see what's in there and if it is up to German specs, could be a great machine. Whatever machine you get, you should order a lube pot with it. The ones from Ferdco fit the Juki clones and have thread wipers which save a few headaches. Order it when you buy the machine or later, but you probably will order it, but just work it into the deal somehow. Don't get the magnetic one that falls off all the time, get the cast one that screws on. Now everyone will tell you their machine will sew 69 to 415 thread and from dollar bills to thick leather without adjustments. Sure they won't. You need to set the machine up for these extremes and sew test samples if you want really good looking work. This is why many of us have two machines setup to work in the ranges we use most. But even then you almost always sew a test sample to check tension. It is hard to buy without putting your hands on a machine, buying the mid priced machines may allow you to get a big and a small stitcher instead of just the higher quality big one. Something to think about. Art

Hi Barra, We use TEX sizing here in the US. TKT sizing is different depending on the type of thread. For Coats DABond Poly TEX -- TKT 69 -- 30 92 -- 25 138 -- 18 207 -- 15 277 -- 11 346 -- 9-8 415 -- 8-7 501 -- 6 Hope this helps. Art

Hi Spencer, The 1245 from Pfaff or Ferdco is a great machine, however not the machine for saddle work. Ferdco is a great company to work with and the service is excellent. Ferdco machines are Chinese clones now, but they do go through them pretty well. You will not go wrong with a Ferdco machine. I think you want to be looking at the 2000 (Juki 441 clone) instead of the 1245, it will handle thicker items than the 1245 and larger thread. Get a servo motor (an upgrade from the clutch), you will sew much better and learn faster with the servo. As far as the cylinder arm goes, you will be able to do more and different work with the cylinder arm than with the flat bed. If you ever get into case work, the cylinder arm is a must; ditto saddles. Artisan is also a good machine both in the small 618 and larger 3000, 4000, 4000P machines. Artisans are clones also, the higher priced ones have mostly US and Japanese parts in them, but the 3000 and 4000 and 618 are well setup when you receive them (which definately isn't the case with some of the clones where they come setup as fabric machines, or not setup at all). I can vouch for Ferdco and Artisan, I hear Sewmo and Cowboy are ok also, but I haven't seen them except at shows. Adler also makes beautiful machines, they aren't cheap (quality or price). Weaver is now making a clone that looks to be a Adler Head with a Juki bottom end and arm. I would like to get my hands on one, but the price is too hefty for a toy. If you can only afford the Artisan 3000, then that is a good start, for a few dollars more, the 4000, however you will not waste money on a Ferdco 2000 or the Artisan 4000P they are both great machines that will run all day, every day. If you do enough work, more than one machine becomes a real convienance, and a Real 1245 (Pfaff), or a Ferdco 1245 are the Cadillacs (the Pfaff is more of a Benz), and the Artisan 618SC-1 (not any other 618 just the Artisan) as a less expensive alternative. However, if you can find a used (not worn out) Pfaff 545 double needle 1/4 gauge machine, you will give up the dog before letting that go. The 545 is probably the best canvas and chap machine ever made, like the Energizer Bunny, it keeps going and going. Few of us buy our first and last machine at the same time, buy something and start stitching. Art

Hi Lute, Need positioning motors are DC or Servo motors that are computer driven. You program them to do different things like leaving the needle up or down (then up a little bit to make loop and realease foot), they usually complete a whole cycle in needle-up (toe down on pedal and release) or needle needle-down (heel down on pedal and hold). You can also make some of them do crazy things like sewing x number of stitches and then back-tacking x stitches then thread clipping, you need control actuators for this though. I have only seen needle up and down and foot lift for leather machines. There are Chinese, Japanese, and German versions of these escalating in price. Efka is probably the best and most expensive. I have seen the DC1600 used on leather machines, you need the least complex controller, they have ones that do everything but go to the men's room for you. Also, with Efka and maybe others there is a decent market in refurbed motors and they are usually as good as a new shiny one at half the price. Contact MIM Industrial Sewing for more info about these motors. Art

Hi Julie, As far as photos on leather, nobody needs to say more than Billy 2-Shews (Bill Stockil). He made a video which is still available at Hidecrafters. about $50. Stock # is 0069-01. Welcome aboard, Art

Ok, then Kaufman in Manhattan -- 212-777-1700. Art

Hi Hoyden, Call Churchill at Brettuns Villiage and see if he has any sole bends. They are 2X4 foot 8/9 oz bends that are really tough. They are usually about $85 but I think they are on sale for $65. http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/sides.htm and search for sole bends. Art

Don't worry Johanna, They will grow up all too soon and move out. You will be sad, but don't worry, in this day and age THEY COME BACK, sometimes bringing someone or something with them, AND THEY STAY. Or even better, THEY NEVER LEAVE. Ain't it grand? Art

Hi, Crocking is just the dye coming off and transfering to whatever it touches. I do use a lot of black and I get sides drum dyed from the tanner (HO). I also have them gum the backs (also called moss back) which helps although you can do this yourself with gum tragacanth. When I line with calf or kip I do not color it, just leave it natural, it will age with use however, I do the edges if needed with water based acrylic (carefully) which holds-up ok; but would rather not if possible. Some tanneries strike deep with their dyes and some are shallow. If I have good strike through, I can just slick the edges, which I prefer. Art

Hi, I haven't been to that Tandy, don't live in that area, who is the manager?. I have been to quite a few of them, most managers are ok folks, some are a little full of themselves, but hey, ever talk to the average leather nut? Be that as it may, go to the store and make them show you the Boss, if they don't, call Jim Linnell and tell him they won't show it to you. A few words from Jim should straighten them out. TLF's are a good operation, unfortunately they are run by people and that can be a problem from both ends. I think if you get your machine running, you will forget about the Boss. Art

I use pliers, it takes a while to get used to using them, but once you learn it's just like using your fingers maybe not quite as fast. While you are in Indianapolis. run over to the Tandy and try out the Boss, I think most stores have them, if not set up ask them to demo it for you. Art

Hi, That isn't the greatest machine with all the bells and whistles, however it should be adequate or more. What are you trying to sew with your machine? While it may be a heavy stitcher (can't tell by photo) it usually can be setup to do just what you want, from heavy to fine. I had a Boss once, but got tired of using it (physically) as it requires quite a stroke for a stitch, do a couple of belts with it and you're done. It also has a problem with short stroking (especially when in a hurry or tired, and my fault not the Boss's) that really fouls things up. I sold mine to a farrier who keeps it in his truck for occasional harness repair, he loves it for that. I thought about keeping it so I could have the opportunity to blame everything on the Boss. Seriously, consider the Boss carefully and ask others here for their opinions. But like I said, what you have should work fine. Call Indianapolis Sewing Machine Co. (317-322-0875, 6830 Industry Place Suite A, Indianapolis 46219) and see if you can bring it in for setup, take along sewing samples so they can set it up to sew what you want. Install the speed reducer and invest ($150) in a servo motor and you will fight with anyone who wants to take it away. It probably uses a 794 needle, Schmetz is a good Brand, get a D ir Tri point. Don't be tempted to buy 7x3 as they are most often for fabric and I haven't seen them tipped for sewing leather. Stitch length should be adjustable on the machine you have by a screw collar (or twisting knob) that restricts the travel of the forward/reverse lever. Art

That thing is $36 club and $26.50 reseller at Tandy. However in a pinch a hedghog will do, just don't hurt the little fellow. Steel wool from the hardware store works too. Art

How about Hardtke in El Paso 915-590-0088. Art

Hi LB, Ok, we have to be fair to everyone. If you have a Tandy reseller account, the #70 is $54 and I think Siegel's regular price is $55.38, but if you do $70 with them the shipping is free, so it is about a wash. Everyone has sales, and they are a powerful tool to manage inventory, increase cash flow, and generally increase sales. Usually, the seller is taking a pretty hefty cut in margin (sometimes going negative) to do this. Some folks decide what they want to buy and then go on a quest for the best price. For the occasional big ticket item, this is good practice, but I give my main supplier a chance at the sale after I have shopped; that is buyer loyalty. Now on everyday stuff, shopping and buying around for the lowest price is called cherry picking. You are picking the good deals from individual suppliers (usually their sale items) and with computers the suppliers can track this kind of thing. Nowadays they will all take your order (in the past that wasn't necessarily so) but you won't necessarily get the service that a regular buyer gets. Case in point (no names); I use a lot of one particular leather, and when I need it I call up the supplier and order it, I don't care how much it costs because I need it and at damned near any price I will make money with it. The supplier knows what I use, and I get snippy when something isn't right and he knows he can always sell me this particular leather at his usual price, however he calls me before it goes on sale and tells me about it going on sale and offers it at that price in all colors (not just sale ones), no pressure, just letting me know. How they do it, I haven't a clue, because I am so far down the list of leather buyers, what I purchase wouldn't affect the rounding error on their bottom line. I deal with maybe 3 suppliers, and the occasional other when I can't get something from the other three, however when I need something special I will ask one on my main suppliers to have it drop shipped from the manufacturer if they deal with them, and they will do it for you if you are a regular, haven't been skinned on a price either. There are some suppliers out there who are family or come from a family operation, generally a good customer is treated like family (although I am sure a couple think of me as their crazy Uncle Art). These are the people we need to keep in business. Art

Hi D, It's amazing what you can do with a tie-wrap, and with a needle and awl machine the first rule is if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Art