Art

Hi Bill, I've seen this in the Campbell manual also, they never gave a why, but after thinking about it, it makes sense. When you are working with materials or applications that vary in thickness, keeping the lock low will allow for varying thicknesses of product without the bobbin showing through to the top. Art

Yes, I have had problems with Siegel's, and Tandy, and Weaver, and Hidecrafter, and many others. Well, supply problems are just the nature of any goods business, so get used to it. I have never received a back order notice from any but a mom and pop business where they are doing the ordering, selling, and shipping personally. With Tandy, I usually talk to the store manager who KNOWS his stock and usually his order leads, no problem there, he tells me over the phone if something is out. Only in very large and electronically sophisticated companies like MSC or McMaster-Carr will the websites have inventory tracking and that is because they are trying desperately to push business to electronic for economy in personnel. None of the leather supply companies are at that level of sophistication on the web, in years to come maybe, but not now. Weaver is the closest to electronic bliss, but they don't use a website, you talk to someone who uses the computer. Weaver is probably the best in order land. They can generally tell you if something is out and when it will arrive (they give long dates too, it usually gets in before they said it would), and if through faults in inventory something is out of stock, I get phone calls as to do I want to leave it on back order or cancel. The last few orders I got from Hidecrafter (before the sale) probably 10% of my order was filled. I still use them for videos etc and am waiting for their corporate life to get back to normal and for them to find their place in the leather world. Siegel I seldom have a problem with, but I use them for leather, that is what they do best, and I talk to them about the order and they know what I want and that's what I get. On the year end or other big sales, expect out of stock on a lot of stuff, it's a sale! But if you NEED something, tell them, let them know you're waiting for it, and see what they'll do. I know it is easy to take it slow and use the computer, and the fact that you are on leatherworker.net tells me you are computer savvy or at least trying to get there. But as far as ordering goes............ USE THE PHONE You have to ramp up your people skills and just pick up the phone and call. When you order something you need badly, ask if it is in stock, if not ask when it will get there, if the taker doesn't know, ask to speak to someone who does. Steve Siegel, Ron Morgan, Paul Weaver, and Everyone Else want you to get what you need, it is really what they live for, any if it is not right, they want to hear about it even more, no BS, they really do. And if you get good service, product, or just a warm fuzzy feeling, let them know. The person on the other end of the phone is not a machine, they're just like us and a little personality can lighten their day and ours too. Art

Hi Bruce, The 4000P is a bigger, heftier, machine than the 441, the 4000 is a 441 clone, and the 3000 is somewhat of their own design using again quite a bit of 441 parts. Some of the 441 parts fit the 4000P, almost all of the 441 parts fit the 4000; and a lot of the 441 parts fit the 3000. The 3000s I have seen have dogs whereas the 4000P doesn't, however dogs are available for the blanket feed system on the 4000 which has a needle guide (aka hole) in the dog. The 4000P is a 20688-1 made by Huigong No.3 Sewing Machine Company in Shanghai, however a lot of things around the needle/feed are different, so some modifications have been made to the base product, it also has Japanese parts in it although I don't know if it is Artisan or Huigong doing that. The 4000 and 3000 are from different casting/assembling facilities and I think Jerry has his hands a bit deeper in the process (design etc.). The 618 and 797 are Huigong also. I don't quite know the lineage of Ferdco's machines, but I suspect something quite similar. They usually remove the feed dogs from leather machines and install a "dogless" plate to keep the dogs from marking. The lower needle guide is basically the hole in the feed dogs. If you want the lower needle guide, you can engineer one by getting the dogs for your particular machine and grinding/machining away the dog part (as your needle plate probably won't have holes for them) and installing and adjusting it. Depending on the design of the machine, you may be able to run the feed dogs low enough to not interfere with the needle plate without having to grind anything, it just depends on the design. I can't say I have ever desired that little part, there may be some time it is necessary, but I have sewn everything from tripled 15oz veg to some ridiculous webbing and Kevlar sandwiches without any skipped stitches or crashed needles. I will occasionally crash a needle on the 618 when going down a hill in thick leather, but it has a needle guide in the dogs so there is only so much deflection before you don't hit the hole...snap. The "lower needle guide" is really the hole in the dogs and that is really there because they make the dogs as one part, so there has to be a way to get the needle through them. The idea of a LNG is to eliminate deflection in the needle feed portion of the needle stroke and hence reduce skipping of stitches. I can see this as a fine idea if stitching 3/4" of leather with a 130 needle and 138 thread except for one thing; if it is a big stitcher, you are going to have a LNG that has to be big enough to pass a 250 through with some room to spare, which means there will still be opportunity for gross needle deflection. If you use a 230 or 250 needle and 346 thread, there isn't going to be much needle deflection anyway. So, if I was getting major deflection on a production machine, I would size the hole in the LNG to fit the needle, but then again, isn't that why we use a medium/light duty machine to do medium/light duty work? Art

Hi Luke, You mean the bobbin race, that works. Also some folks will put a few drops on the thread in the bobbin which is ok too, but if they do that, they also need to oil the race. Any kind of oiling is better than not oiling. Art

Hi Paul, It is a nice knife, however it has a 5/8 inch bbl which is a little big for some (especially tight work). It is also right about (even with discount) at the price of a Henley. You really need to try them out though as they are different for everyone. Henley also makes great blades. Art

Hi Scouter, Yes, it is worth $2K. Those home machines won't sew leather that well, and can't handle the thread and needle sizes we use. The small machines run way too fast for leatherwork and will burn the motor out eventually. Leather machines are relatively simple except for the presser foot lift and needle feed, however they are mechanical, no servos or electronic programming or timing. A lot of the price is in setup and service. Artisan and Ferdco provide excellent service over the phone and through the mail. Rarely you may have to send a part back, but that is handled expeditiously. Artisan will spend the time required to get your machine running over the phone. This is also a good learning experience should you need it. Artisan also keeps an eye here for any problems. Steve has told me he will assist with ANY machine if a list member has trouble, now that's customer service. The Artisan is a big cast iron machine, no chrome, but plenty heavy. It is considerably bigger than a home machine, sometimes the pictures don't have anything in them for size reference. There is only one stitch in leatherwork (excluding shoes), the straight stitch, however different needles can give a little different look. I don't think you have to buy something like this local, especially with Artisan Service, but I am sure they can hook you up with a local dealer if you want to go that way. Art

Hi Bruce, Back off the tension or get a blanket foot. Work a deal for one when you buy the machine. The 3000 has dogs, which can really help with feed problems. I know some who run the blanket foot all the time, but it is way too big for some close work, still a handy thing to have. The 3000 is right about in the required price range and the 618 is a little cheaper, with the 20oz you would be on the edge for the 618 and I don't think I would buy without some headroom. Art

Hi Russ, I run lube pots on my big stitchers and seldom NEED to oil the race, however, it won't hurt to put a drop on the race every 10 or so hours. Do you have a hole in the needle plate you can put a drop into? Keep in mind, you shouldn't have a puddle of oil in there, but if you do don't panic, they're kind of like Harleys, if you don't see oil on the driveway, a little more won't hurt. Almost everyone over oils. Art

Hi Mike, That's my ASE #9. Folks thought that was a picture of me, so I changed it. A wonderful machine for harness and belts, I hand crank it, but may put a motor on it someday. It has a jump foot needle feed and tracks absolutely straight. It does not have reverse, but just rotate the work 180 to lock off. That and the old Ferdinand 900 Bull are a couple of my favorites. The No. 9 is also my portable, works much better than a Boss, but it is a little hefty. The Classic is about the same function wise but is cosmetically a little nicer. I don't know if I would part with that much money for the Classic though. Also a No. 9 will not tire you out nearly as much as a Boss and is speed of light faster. Pearson #6 or ASE #9 machines or Classics don't come up for sale often. Those that have them seldom part with them. Not so for the 6/6 which is supposed to be a clone of the Pearson, well it ain't. I do see used ones for sale now and then and bought one terribly cheap once (it even embarrassed me how cheap), it worked ok, but I tripled my money 3 or 4 months later when I unloaded it. I hadn't used it a lot but it was ok I guess. I like the No.9 better. Art

Hi Chuck, There are good and bad things about eBay. Misrepresentation, If you see the words "Industrial Strength", it is not. If it is industrial, it will have a separate Head, Table, and Motor. If the motor is attached to the machine, it is too small for anything but the home use it was intended for. Motor HP of 1/2 HP (400 Watts) or greater is what you need for leather. Many of the machines taken out of industrial service have nonstandard voltage and/or 3450 rpm motors, way too fast for everyday multi-purpose leatherwork. A home machine is properly called a home machine or a Commercial machine (the meaning here is that you go down to the sewing machine store and buy it commercially, confusing?). An Industrial machine is generally one that would be used in a factory. An industrial strength machine means nothing. Some of the older machines are however decent for light work and the motors are pretty available, carbon foot controls are a little harder to find. Singer 66, 201, 15, and 31 are good examples. Industrial machines like the Singer 111 and 211 are good workhorses for medium duty (46 to 207 thread), there are a zillion of them out there and parts are available, there are even clones of them (Tachony aka Tacsew), and many of the new machines use the same foot system (not Pfaff or Brother). Pfaff machines are great even if parts are expensive and feet are different, numbers like 1245 and 545 are good machines for your purpose and even a used one will end up with your kids. Ferdco and Artisan make good machines and their service is excellent bar none. They both sell Chinese machines, however they are adjusted and setup for your type of sewing and run in before they are sent out to you. This includes setting up on a stand with motor and speed reducer and cleaning up the cosmoline and oiling the resivours and wicks if necessary. Adler machines are very good, but there are a multitude of numbers and every little optional part or combination seems to have a different dash number, but generally a67, 68, 167, 168, 267, or 867 will do what you want and last forever. Good luck, Art On Jan 4, 2008 6:36 PM, <skeetjeep@atlinkwifi.com> wrote: I'm considering getting a flat bed sewing machine to handle the small items such as check books key fobs made from scraps. etc. there are several on ebay. Anybody have any recommendations? Chuck

However, do buy the 3001-00 Safety Beveler, Half the price, 4 times the usability and takes the same blades as the "Super" Skiver. Art

Hi Ed, Call CNA down in Charlotte, NC and see who has what you want. 704-329-5800. Art

American & Efird out of Mt Holly, NC. Right down the road apiece from Andy, Opie, and Aunt Bea. Art

I run mine all the way down flat on the needle plate, if I was doing 3/4 inch all day, then I would run it higher. Art

Hi Ed, If it is giving you problems, lower it. I have noticed with different manufacturers of the outer feet that they are not consistently the same height even though they say they are for 441/2000 and like machines. Art

If it ain't broke Ed. You change if you don't like the look (or like the newer look) or it is giving you problems. DaBond is so darned consistent, I would never change for change's sake. Art

Give us some pics, maybe someone will recognize it. Art

Ed, Start over. Increase the bobbin tension until there is a pound or two of bobbin tension on the bobbin thread. Then leave it alone and adjust the top tension to put the lock where you want it. Start from square one, throw in a new needle and bobbin for baseline, make sure the bobbin turns clockwise as you look from the open end of the bobbin case and that the thread is clicked in under the tension spring, one or two pounds pull should be just fine. Art

Hi Lute, Eddington Natural Eddington White Eddington because it is not laid as hard as Coats or Rice. Deer is on the Gold side and Pheasant is on the yellow side, however they both work well on Natural/Russet leather. Barbour's is fairly white, but it takes dye better than any synthetic. This is for machine stitching, if you want it to look like beeswaxed hand stitching, then Coats Pheasant is a good approximation. Art

Hi Ed, That's what I call two wraps, well almost two. Art

Hi Ed, I guess the bobbin tension spring could be worn out, I've never worn one out though. See if you can get a Japanese part instead of a Chinese one. Orrrr, crank it down till it clears and then crank some adjustment into the secondary tension (first of all make sure you have two wraps around it counterclockwise -- we're talking about the tension knob that is closer to the needle), and you aren't using those funky Neel's bobbins are you? Art

Hi Ed, If you like to tinker, get a machine to fix up. On the production stuff, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Art

Ed, The needle system is 794, the S is the point and point orientation, at least that is how I see it. The "stuff" after the 794 is the desire to identify all the modifications that have been developed over the years for specific applications. All of these "new" specifications are things we accomplished with the needle and awl machines by putting the awl in different orientations. With threaded needle machines you have a thread groove in the needle that can only be placed one way so that the machine will function, hence needle orientation has to have a separate needle for each position. Let's face it, there aren't as many (the percentage is probably way less than 1%) needle and awl machines out there anymore so there is less incentive to develop specialized awl tip configurations for them. By the time they get the awl machine cranked up and adjusted and operating, they have probably made a five or ten year supply. Art

Hi Ed, Needle strikes are caused a lot by the leather moving under the foot or the foot raising before the needle gets through the needle plate hole. I am not sure I would go making the hole larger before seeing if some other fix is necessary like increasing pressure foot spring pressure, checking the foot timing, etc. Art

Hi Ed, I've seen feet made more ways and out of more different material than I care to remember. I saw a "canoe" foot set on a big Singer (it was on something that may have been bigger than a 7 Class) and each foot was four or five inches long and they looked like little canoes. Turned-up toes are not real common on leather machines but very common on machines for fabric and/or webbing. Turned-up toes have less tendency to mark when making tight running turns, so you can relieve the leading edge just a bit with a file or grinder (or even sandpaper) if you are having that problem, ditto the back. Art