Art

After it thoroughly dries, I use Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax and buff up to a shine, however Kiwi would also work. Art

Call Steve at Leather Machine Co 1-866-962-9880. Art

I use MPB all the time, both the dressing and the oil. I ask customers if the pine scent is objectionable before treating, if it is, I use Pecard's instead. MPB is all natural and is antimicrobial, Pecard's is not. They both work great, but don't overdo either, only go for a second coat if the first coat is absorbed in less than an hour. Don't even think about another coat for 6 months (outside in Arizona) to a year. Art

Look for dealers at the top of the page. Talk to each of them, and pick the one you like best, or the one that is closest, or something. Get the machine he recommends or the next grade up and PAY WHAT HE ASKS. These are the only dealers I know who equip machines and tune them for leatherwork. Leather sewing machines do not generally come up on eBay or Craig's List, they are either sold between leatherworkers or handled as trade-ins by the dealers above. Warranty is important and tech support is invaluable. Ebay won't provide you with anything that won't require work or adjustment. Art

The only leather you should be sewing on a Sailrite is wear strips and patches. A Sailrite is the Best of that breed but still has a bunch of plastic parts and no safety clutch. Knockoffs of the Sailrite are somtimes iffy, given some of the posts I've seen on LW about their troubles. A Consew 226 or 227, Pfaff 545, Singer 153w might be in your pricerange and suit your needs. Make sure to test whatever you buy with whatever you sew. Art

I use Wickett and Craig. I have used Hermann Oak, not sure if it is Oak anymore. HO has a harder hand than W&C. Occasionally you will get a hide that has what seems to be a little "rawhide" in the center. This occurs in spots mostly but it is not a big problem for me as I use mostly W&C and get it from the Tannery. I like having a source fairly close to me. If you want real oak tanned leather, you will have to go to Baker or Rendenbach. Art

As Ronnie said, DUD. This does happen, less often nowadays, but some nonetheless. Your dealer should replace without question. With DOA electronics, there isn't much the end user can do. Art

The same Frank English who is up by Flathead Lake in Montana? 1 (406) 260-1179 should get him for you. Art

His Website haleandco.com was apparently constructed by chimpanzees. I generally only use vendors on recommendation of someone I know who has used them. Never could find anybody. That being said: Panhandle Leather Southern Leather Use the phone. Art

Hi Bruce, Excellent Display, good teaching value also. I was a little suprised to see mention of Olsen Nolte in Frisco. I have their Campbell Stitcher, refurbished by Campbell-Bosworth. California history is fascinating, they had their own little "Wild West" that was different from the the other regions. Art

Not trying to be funny, but did you turn it on at the switch. Some motors use magnetic controls or the functional equivalent that shut off when power is removed. Art

Hi Quality used tools: Bruce Johnson Sheridan Leather Outfitters talk to Vandy New edgers: Ron's Tools Sheridan Leather Outfitters Barry King New Leather Tools, punches etc. Weaver Leather carries many brands including CS Osborne Springfield Leather carries cheap tools AND good tools including CS Osborne Knives: Used knives from Bruce or Vandy will be very very good. New knives from Terry Knipschield (Knipper) are good as well as Leather Wranglers. Look through the many posts on head knives for some interesting perspectives. Art

I think the Artisan has a 12 inch arm and the Cobra has an industry standard 16.5 inch arm. While you can get parts for the Cobra just about anywhere (it is basically a Juki 441), there are several parts for the 3200 that you will only be able to get from Artisan. I have many Cobra machines and have not had a failure on any of them. I recommend the Cobra highly, Steve and the service are excellent. On tools, the Tandy starter kits have a lot of cheap tools in them. I would recommend buying only the tools you need for each project, and buy the best quality. Buy the quality tool once, your toolbox will fill itself, but only with tools you need and use. Learn to sharpen, and buy the tools to accomplish this. A strop should be your first project, there is a tutorial thread on here about making a strop. Art

Figure out what show you want to go to, and ask Steve to bring one to the show. So if you are East of the Mississippi, figure on Wichita Falls in October or maybe the IFoLG show in Nashville in October. If you are West, then Wichita Falls, Amarillo, Sheridan, or Elko. Art

You have to use the thinner for the paint you are using, usually 1:1 paint to thinner but you can go as high as needed to get the paint to flow. Art

Take the paint tip off and make sure it isn't clogged, us a straight pin to clean it out if clogged. Check the paint path for obstructions. Adjust the paint tip so it is not above the middle of the air tip. Adjust it down for less paint and up for more, but never above the middle of the air tip. If it won't siphon water then the tip is probably clogged or improperly adjusted. If this fails, loosen the bottle so air can get in, if it still doesn't work, call Badger. Art

Friedlander is the US distributor for Highlead. Art

Our 20kw unit is an Onan I think, it is diesel. My little one is a Honda EM, 5500 watts I think. Honda (and I suppose Generac and Yamaha) make a smaller series that are pretty good also. With any of them, but especially the gasoline models, if you are not going to use them for a month or so, run them dry when shutting down so the gasoline will not varnish up the carb, and most definitely use Stabil in your gas that you store. With diesel, use store-n-start (diesel form of Stabil) in your tank. We run the diesel every two weeks for an hour or two with a load on it to heat it up and force any moisture out. Every couple of months, I crank up the gas one to charge the battery. Want to talk noisy, I still have a 3kw communications generator from the Korean war, by today's standards it makes more noise than a dump truck, but still works. I don't use it anymore as my guess is you need to run it on leaded gas. Art

Hi Cheryl, Kevin at SLC also has Master contact and thinner, he also has brush bottles for contact cement. Art

That was probably US tanned leather. I would try Montana Pitchblend, Pecard's, or another good oil and see how fast it takes it up and maybe even a second coat if it needs it. Let is stand a day or two afterwards so the oil can dustribute. It should tool well, but don't get used to it, you won't find much like it anymore. Art

When I first started (you know, when dinosaurs roamed) I used Barge in the tube. Thick and stringy and hard to use. I asked the local cobbler what he used and was it thick and hard to use. He turned me on to Master and introduced me to thinner (Master of course). So I've been a Master fan for a long time. Their Rubber cement (Petronio #8) and thinner works great too. Your local shoe finders will almost always have these in stock. Southern is a good national supplier with a lot of warehouses. When thinning contact cement, it is not a particularly exact science. Put some thinner in and shake up, if the viscosity is right ok, if not add more. If you add too much, it will not ruin it, it will just be easier to apply. When applying, apply and let dry, if it is shiny, you can stick together, if dull, apply another coat and wait till it drys and complete the same routine. If you follow this procedure, you will always have enough adhesive, no matter how thin you have made it. Art

When talking 111's for leatherwork the 111w152, 153, 154, and 155 are the predominant ones you will see and the 155 being the best. These machines were used extensively by the U.S. Navy and Air Force for maintenance of cockpit safety equipment. Always check them out thourghly for excessive wear. Art

I purchased all of Ron's edgers at Sheridan years ago for a fantastic price, still a healthy chunk, but really great price. This has allowed me to experiment a bit and now I find I use them to do things I wouldn't even try before. They make a series of "Montana" edgers that will edge chrome tan and even 2 to 3 oz book leather. Really "floppy" chrome tan can still be a problem for even the best edger so placing a piece of wood or metal bar on the leather just inside the edge to stabilize the edge will make it easier with any edger, ditto beveling or scant skiving with a French edger. A piece of tempered plate glass works well in place of a steel bar and is easier to put pressure on to keep the edge steady. Art

Ok, Here is a SCR and motor for $500+ that will work and it is pretty easy to install. US made too. http://www.sailrite.com/MC-SCR-Power-System-110-Volt Art

I use Montana Pitchblend Paste or Pecard's paste if folks find the smell (pine) of Montana Pitchblend objectionable. A coating (rub in) every 6 months to a year will be enough depending on dryness of climate. Art