Art

Call Art Reed (325)677-4572, if anyone would know, he would. Art

Adam, Campbell Bosworth is in Yoakum which is down East of Austin. I don't normally recommend a Campbell as a first machine, but I have one and love it. Steve form Cobra is usually at the Boot and Saddlemakers Roundup at Wichita Falls in October and will have a machine to deliver there if you want to eliminate shipping. Bob also attends the same show and can probably do the same. Steve also attends the Cowboy Roundup in Amarillo, best check with him as to times and dates. The IFoLG Show this year is in Nashville October 18-21. Steve will probably be there, and maybe Bob too as it is reasonably close; you'll have to call them and ask. Always make arrangements for a show far ahead of time so they know to save you one of the machines. Art

In the US, you would need a 110 to 220 step up adapter, or straight from a single leg of 3 phase, or across 2 legs of single phase 220-240. Need to look at the schematic for the box to be sure. Art

I don't think there is a 12-step swivel knife program.......yet. Art

I am closing this thread. I already deleted two messages because of threats, Trox has faster fingers than I and copied one before I could delete it. Anything more you guys can take into PM land or whatever. Art Moderator

I have the firewall from hell on this machine, I'll try when I get home. Art

Hi Lippy, That link gives me "server not found". Art

Any of the sewing machine dealers that advertise on leatherworker.net can order you smooth 111 feet, not just Bob Kovar. They quite often (because they convert fabric machines to leather machines) have anything you need in stock. Feet for the 111 fit many of the machines in the same class, Consew, Highlead, and literally a host of others. They make many feet for the 111 including piping feet both straight and cutback, zipper feet, different size feet with guides, and other solutions you will never need or even think of. Just call with your credit card in hand and it will be on it's way that day. But most of the time if you need something special, there is always the grinder, and the feet are cheap enough that you can afford to do that. Art

What grade of steel do they use? Steel prices have went up, everything has gone up, so all tools seem to have gone up a reasonable amount, but that amount is maybe $10 to $20 over the last decade for the amount used in a handtool. There is a line of distinction between higher prices and outrageous. As a marketing principal, trust is of paramount importance. Mr Hale should market the old stock as Barnsley, and anything he makes as Hale. If he is making quality product, Hale will become a go to makers mark. Mr. Hale should of course come on Leatherworker.net and tell us about what he is doing. Art

Have you found anyone who sells caps for stainless steel tubular rivets? Art

Noooooooooooooooooo! Lift the foot and place the next stitch back and overrun a stitch or two. Or turn the work around and lock it off. Art

The No.9 would sew over 1", special adjustment, but it works. I've seen a few Union Locks set up to sew over 1". Also Campbells, and Ferdco made a few 441s (2000 Pro) that would do it. Of course nobody said the feet would ever touch the needle plate again. Art

Count on 15 yards of sewing. I could tell you some tricks, but when they go wrong, they really go wrong. Figure on 15 yards and change bobbins before you get there. Remember, that changes with thread size, 1/2 that for 138. Don't let me get started on patchers, the bobbins are so small you have a hard time getting two jobs done. Art

Hi Sheri, When a sewing machine has a statement saying it will sew x", that means the total it will sew, not necessarily optimally, but at least less than that. A 1/4 inch of leather (16oz in the trade, 1oz being 1/64 inch) is for all intent and purposes one of the largest bull hides you may encounter and you would have to search for it. Garment leathers are 2-3oz and shoe/boot leathers 3-5oz and when lined usually with 4oz, a total of around 8oz. Most leather for projects is in the range of 4-12oz, with average 6-8oz. Traces for draft harness horses can go 1 inch or more when put together and are quite often the limit for harnesswork. For shoes and other projects where a lot of pieces may intersect, we usually skive the edges of the pieces down to a thinner section so bulges will be controlled if not eliminated. It might be remarkable that leather hides are measured in ounces of thickness, or in the shoe business "irons" (1 iron = 1/48 inch), but when we put them together, we usually specify inches. So your sewing machine will sew in inches. Big harness machines (called stitchers) will sew in the 7/8 to 1 1/4 inch range maximum, and some will sew a dollar bill (not well of course, and with big thread). Medium machines will sew dollar bill to 3/8 inch, sometimes 1/2 inch. Small machines, 1/4 inch or less. Small machines will sew with 33 or even less thread up to 69 and maybe 92. Medium machines will sew 46 to 138, sometimes 207. Stitchers sew 138 to 415 easily, some bigger, and with persuasion, 92 and 69 on the small end. When sizing a machine, figure on running the machine constantly in it's mid or low end range. Don't buy a mid range machine and try to sew 207 all day with it when it was meant to handle 138. And to complicate things, there are ranges within ranges. It is important that the first machine come from a brick and mortar dealer, they help with selection and they can help learning to sew and operate the machine. The dealer also makes sure the machine is setup for leather. There is a lot to setting a machine up for leather sewing, and it is not just putting in a leather needle. A machine set up for sewing fabric at the speed of light will be nothing approaching useable for serious leatherwork, and the cost to change a machine over to that use is well North of the $200 mark at cost, more the bigger the machine. So the dealer is worth what he charges. Art

Not long for this world. Crystals are usually sold and applied like spots, they are in a carrier that looks like a spot and applies using the same tools. See Weaver Catalog for more info. Art

Sorry to hear of your loss. I've lost more than a few in my life and each one was special. A dog can form a really tight bond with a guy (usually) that really hurts when broken. I feel your pain. Art

As long as you get a machine from a good quality factory, and maintain the machine, it should last 30 years or more, even on a production floor, they just need proper maintenance. I have seen machines from the late '90s that run every bit as good as when new. I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability as the Chinese are careful to copy classic machines, where there are gazillions of them and parts will be available. If the manufacturer deviates from the norm, like bringing out a new arm length, then you will have to depend on that distributor until there are enough of them in service to get the notice of parts manufacturers. Today's clones are in some ways better then their ancestors, they are manufactured to tighter tolerance, and use robotics for drilling and milling. Art

No they don't. China could not have made a 441 clone 20 years ago. I do have a 27 year old Juki that will give it a run for it's money though, might be better too. Art

For snaps, I use the Press-N-Snap. I have two, one set-up for each side, ligne 24, I have dies for grommets and eyelets too and the Press-N-Snap is easy to change over however infrequently I need that. The problem with presses, no matter the manufacturer, is the time to changeover the dies. If you plan your workflow you can minimize this; if you do a lot of one thing like tubular rivets like I do, you can leave one press set-up for just that. Multiple presses are expensive so you have to have the workload to justify it. I use the Little Wonder from Weaver, it comes setup for Tubular and for about $12 more you can get the anvil for caps. Folks who do spots usually do a gazillion of them, and for that I would recommend an auto-feeder from Standard. The feeders for the Weaver presses have been reported to not work very well on this board. As I find Weaver tools to be very good, but don't have that press and feeder, I can't really say. If you are just doing a headband with Swarvoski Crystals, then the Little Wonder will do the job. I guess the best action is to go to the Weaver website and read about it and all the different dies that will work on it. Art

Timing is, of course, everything. When adjusting needle bar height, be sure you don't strike the feet on the down stroke. I've seen that when some try and use a needle other than what the machine is designed for, some of the Pfaff machines can be quite picky about that. Art

If you have a nearby TLF, then that may be the best bet. Buy what is on sale, and if you are going to be using someone a reasonable amount, get on their best program, it will save you money. There is an ugly word in this business, it is SHIPPING. If you are buying from a TLF close by, that takes $15 off the price of having it shipped, that's at least $1 per foot for a shoulder. Art

Stop needle down, then bring it up 1/4 inch, THEN shift and go forward. Always do this when shifting or turning sharp corners. Art

Unless you have a needle and awl (hook and awl) machine, your experience with linen may be less than satisfactory. You need to learn about your new machine using standard practices, that will mean bonded nylon or polyester thread. After a year's experience with bonded thread, you may wish to venture onto sacred ground and try other things, and have the experience to know when the manure is hitting the windmill. I have used Weaver thread of late and find it excellent, it is much like American and Efird thread. What A&E thread will be in the future is only speculation after it's acquisition by KPS, it may turn into China and Efird. The Thread Exchange is good also but I generally specify the brand I want if available. The best policy is to learn to use what you can get readily, and stick with it. This has not been easy over the years as I have went through Rice, Linhanyl, Coats, and am searching again. Art

Usually, needles and thread come with the machine. If not ask for them. Use them to practice sewing. you asked about right hand twist; it is used for curved needle machines like the Landis 12 shoe machines. It will be a somewhat long time till you will want any of that. Just learn with what you got till you need to change thread sizes, then you can find out about thread suppliers and needle suppliers on this board. The thread exchange and Maine thread come to mind. Cutex had a bunch of supplies at reasonable prices. Art

Hi Mike, Many times on this board (and others), I see folks that want to cap their expenditure at a grand. This is not a good number to start looking for a heavy duty big stitcher. I hate to see what you will have to settle for looking for the $1000 machine (even used) that will do what you want and is a FIRST STITCHER. If you buy old iron with no experience, you will usually be less than satisfied, mostly due to getting it running and keeping it running. Your first machine should be a new or used current model stitcher from a brick and mortar dealer (Cobra, Cowboy, and Techsew). Don't buy off eBay until you can completely adjust your machine, as things on eBay are usually set-up for high speed operation and will disappoint you sewing leather. Get your experience with a new machine and a dealer as a lifeline. If you think you only need to sew 3/8" of leather, you are wrong, you always need to sew bigger no matter what you think. If a factory manager said he only needed to sew X, then it is easy to believe, but a leatherworker will need to sew X+++ because that's the way it works. So, your budget is low, save more or adjust your budget to $2000 at least, $2,800 for a big 16 inch arm machine. Once you get a stitcher and some experience, there are plenty of old iron machines out there that will do the light stuff cheap. Art