Art

Trox, It sounds like the foot pedal jumping up and down is related to the motor. Also check the belt and pulleys for anything in the grooves, this might cause the motor to move and cause the up and down. If no joy, take the belt loose (off) and run the motor and see if it still does the up and down thing, then it is definitely the motor or it's mount. You change the stitch length by the adjustment on the stitch direction lever. There is an adjustment to limit the travel up and down. There are a few adjustments that change the presser foot lift. If it bothers you, change it, however if it is not a problem, don't mess with it till you find a Juki repair manual for reference. Art

I have the Cobra and the Highlead versions of the 441. The Highlead is much beefier and looks a little different (more squared off and winder is on top), but most of the parts interchange. I run the slotted plate and left foot on the Highlead, Cobra's come set up to run with smooth feed dogs, you can change them to slot but it isn't necessary unless you use the stirrup or holster plates. If you change plates a lot, taking out the dogs and running a slot makes things a little easier, I run without dogs on the Highlead and use the bag plate on that one. I have another Highlead I only use for blankets, tarps, and tents, set up with blanket foot and aggressive dog, it stays setup that way. That thing runs a clutch motor and no reducer at 800-900 spm. Dogs, women, and children are quickly somewhere else when I use it, cats just don't care, they just lay around, it's what they do. Art

Go to one of the shows he attends, and talk to Bob Beard about this. He does some of this as one of his many skillsets. You will get info on what to use and some howtos. Art

Specifications are going to be the same regardless. The machines are based on the Juki 441, you want this just for parts interchange. Sewing parts can be different, like feet and needle plates used to be on some of them, but overall, you can order parts from any parts house and make them fit. Stick to a standard size like 16.5 and 25 and you can get parts. A few things might be customized a bit, but generally a 441 is a 441 and everything can be made to fit. You might just want to base it on the dealer. If you like him, buy from him. Art

I have all the accessories, the Stirrup, or what I call a bag plate is useful for (you guessed it) bags. I don't bother changing and use it for holsters too. Right toe and left toe and I also have a double toe. I ground out the center of the inner foot for better vision. Most of the time I use a left toe (very small) and I don't use a feed dog, I have a slotted needle plate I run with everything but the Stirrup plate. I have one machine set up for blankets and I run the wide dogs and blanket feet on that. If the left toe is on the machine, I use it. If the double toe is on the machine, I use that. I only change to the bag plate when I need it. Art

Congrats, hope you have a bunch more. Art

We usually don't do that as it may affect the content or continuity of the thread. If it is really something bad, well, we probably have already. I closed the topic so you wouldn't get any further replies. Art Moderator

Setter for eyelets. Will also set some small grommets. Art

I have made oval punches by pressing a round punch (try it on a belt punch not an arch punch) in the hydraulic press. Weaver Leather (over here in US) makes a series of them also. Art

Are you on Islay? If so, it would be a bit of a trip to KNUTSFORD CHESHIRE where Abbey Saddlery is. They can also give you info on what thread and needles and awls to use. For watchbands, you might want to go higher than 6spi, more like 10 or 12. We use Barbour's Linen over here but Abbey will know what's available over there. Abbey also sells Dixon tools which are excellent. Buy what you need for a project, then buy what you need for your next project. Eventually you won't have to buy anything for one of the projects. Art

I use the head/round knife the most on 6oz. and up veg. I use a curved clicker knife on most chrome tan. Search on head knife and clicker knife on this forum for many posts on this. For skiving, I use skiving knives made by Terry Knipshield, Bob Beard, Bill Buchman, and shoe knives that I profile and sharpen myself. Art

The home (or homestead) Singers, 15, 31, 201, 66, 301, and a few others will work fine for lite duty up to 10oz of chrome or soft handed veg sewing with up to 45 and sometimes 69 thread. These will last long enough (with occasional sewing, not continuous use) for you to save up for an industrial machine. These machines can last a few years for part time work. The motor is usually the first thing to go as Singer and Pfaff made really tough machines, just depending on the strain you put on them. If you occasionally put heavy loads on one of these machines, keep the gears greased and other moving parts oiled more often than you would do for standard service. For machines with internal drive motors, keep them well maintained as replacing a motor will cost as much as the machine. For sewing with 92 and above thread, the industrial is clearly a better choice. You can't beat a good tight little Singer for stitch quality, that is why quilters covet them. Art

You have a #3 Scalpel Handle. There are different sizes, 3, 4, and others. The #11 blade is the one used for delicate leatherwork, mostly because it has a narrow point and all art supply (and leathercraft) stores carry them. Great for close places and filigree work. The #3 handle fits the small blades like the #10 and #11. Art

Panhandle leather or Southern Leather. Art

Usually, boot tops are made of a top leather and a liner, a 3 to 4 oz top with a 4oz calf liner. The top stitching is usually 33 or 46 thread and a #9 to #12 needle at around 12 to 14 stitches to the inch. The machines that are commonly used for this work are the Singer 110w100, the Singer 31-15 or 31-20 roller presser foot equipped, the Cobra 5550, again roller equipped. The best of those in my opinion, is the Singer 110w100. If you build a table to fit around the post, a Pfaff 491 is also a good machine. I have seen the Singers in conditions from almost new to almost no maintenance, guess which one to look for. There is a Chinese clone of the 491 that is excellent and expensive, Both Steve and Bob have those. Art

It's your business, go for it. Art

I'll bet the folks who bought them for $135 are a little miffed at him too. Art

Esentially yes, but the version they were making 20 years ago. Art

They had an Efka model 60 I think. Art

I have one of these. It does everything I want even two pieces of 8/9oz. It comes on a steel pallet which I left it on as it is easier to move with a pallet jack. It is hydraulic and comes ready to go. Others that handle clickers are Campbell-Bosworth and Weaver. It has a swing away press arm which is much handier than the Tippmann clickers. Art

I've noticed on the Tandy stuff that the placement of the hole in the groover is not good. Sometimes too high to bite at all and requires additional grinding. Goods Japan seems to be better. Art

Mike, Sometime, quite a little while ago, I acquired a swivel knife (for leather) that was much the same as the TBoss. This was some time before eBay, possibly BPC, or 1980. It was not like a pen and had a yoke. If I have it, I can't find it, but I also have an ol' Smoothie I can't find either. The TBoss is well manufactured and finished, moreso than the one I got many moons ago. Art

The new Tandy PRO Groover works well. The old style Tandy groovers in current production are not made well and show shoddy production, the older ones (mine are 15 or more years old) are excellent, I have a bunch of those. Douglas Versa Groover works well once you get the hang of it. Ron's Tools freehand groovers are great, work really well with straight edge and also you can make grooves (uncut) with a screw crease (or non-screw) and follow-up with the freehand if you want. Art

LOL? Boise....Just Sylvia, why would I?, How could I? Art

Not so much breaking. I have had two for a while, and they are a little tricky to learn (unlearn standard swivel). They use a 7/32 inch bladeshaft. Scroll and circles are easier, straight lines are a little more difficult for me. Art