stanly

While I like the idea that I may NOT have to pull the connecting rod out to polish out the galling that I probably caused, little suspicious of ""miricle in a can" claims. Of course, I'm not right next to a truck stop so it's little more than run over and see if they carry it. Is this the product U recomend - Motorkote MK-30301-12 Spray Lubricant - 12 oz. MotorKote Multi Purpose Spray Lubricant with MotorKote hyper lubricant added. or this - Motorkote MK-HL10-06 10oz Hyper Lubricant MOTORKOTE Hyper Lubricant additive is a premium synthetic heavy-duty formulation that bonds to metal surfaces on contact. Don't suppose Motorcote said "satisfaction guranteed" on the can?

I'll admit that I didn't stop right away and oil when I first heard this (1-2 ft guessing). When I oil the cam & follower it stops for 5-10 stitches, 2 or 3 times that if I use grease on it. SO, why won't it stay quiet, have I completely ruined one or other or both? Also admit that I'm not using this machine regularly and getting the cover off to oil needs special wrench so it's pretty much my fault anyway you look at it.

I'll admit to being FAR from most experienced - I'm using this Tandy set for my Segma snaps and rapid rivets. I put couple pieces of paper on anvil because I was worried about marking. After the Tandy snaps were set I needed to breakin by using pliers to close first time. There is a onsite T vid of some old guy named Hurst demoing Item #8105-00 This is the best universal snap and rivet setter offered anywhere. Sets Multi Purpose Segma Type Fasteners #1250, Line 20 Fasteners #1261, Line 24 Fasteners #1263, Rapid Rivets and Double Cap Rivets. Smashtoad: My best guess is that you have to set them on a surface with roughly the resistance of another planet. Any bounce or give in the setting process will foil you. This includes the bounce provided by a dish towel between the setting surface and a kitchen table. Seriously...I cannot figure these things out. Thinking about trying Snapsource prong snaps? Pearl might be nice. Well yes, I did have best results when I used a concrete block sitting idrectly on floor, but T employee showed me how to set double caps using the anvil on cutting table (admit she had to give couple wacks). PS: NOT affiliated in anyway w/ Tandy

After some searching found the glycerin at Walmart of all places-6oz bottle. (about 1/2 way down the list) http://www.walmart.c...ch_constraint=0

Insect idea seemed questionable after I thought.... went out last night and scraped and washed w/ dishwash soap. I've heard about removing the membrane....how can I tell if the scraping did this/ what does it look like? Do I Scrape/ wash&brush until I can see pattern from inside? OK, now have 2 home recipies/methods: FWIW: the site that formerly sold a snake tanning kit - rittlesupplies.net - is now a VAMPIRE site. From - Bob Myers at the Albuquerque International Rattlesnake Museum (interesting site if u want to learn about Rattlers, also covers skinning) http://crotalus.kitt...net/tanning.htm From - Tannery.net (has simpler recipie) http://www.thetanner.../snakeskin.html combination of above - has safety tips http://www.ehow.com/...snake-skin.html Seems all I'm missing is glycerin and bunch of push pins

I have a roadkill snakeskin and while I don't expect it to ever be good for more than inserts would like to preserve it as much as possible. Partly cleaned and have it in a tub of water right now. Just going to bump this thread with my questions: wondering if I could set the skin out and let insects do the final cleaning or would they go to work on skin too? dry it, THEN pin it down? could I use a soaking solution of alcohol and glycerin instead? (acetone seems harsh)

Like u at first I struggled with the line up. Then I thought - "What this really needs is a guide" taped down a double thickness of cardboard and bumped raised portion of each stamp aginst it Just before striking.

My first thought was that you could make a piggy bank by adapting Tom Thumb purse, But after closer read of OP and hearing about the " NOVELTY COIN PURSES " I think that this will be much tricker than what I had in mind. Eagerly waiting to see patterns

You know, I've wondered this myself. And subject to hearing from someone who has actually done it OR me going into experimenting mode....would think that a heat box using hair dryer would be the way to go. Of course I'd experiment on some scraps before just sticking a good belt in a shoebox with a hairdryer.

Guessing you looked at this dealer and they failed to meet your requirments in some way? I know that is 16hr trip, still it's closer than Calif. Sugar Sewing Machine Ltd 03-341 2157 279 Riccarton Rd Christchurch 8041

Dirtdigger: U know of Babelfish and Yahoo translate? I think at least one will do a whole page translate.

my 3 chioces would be copy Tandy or just use the measurments this thread-Pattern wanted for Wallet and Billfoldsinserts- http://leatherworker...?showtopic=3368 measure old wallet and copy u will discover that it's the interiors that make the wallet (and make u crazy), not the craving on the back PS to Texas L: the piece of whatever fabric helps keep the wallet thinner I'm sure, think that when u can't see it anything that holds up is ok. As far as linings - look at KK and some of the fancier ones in the wallets&.... subforum. Think Tandy has some kind of poly fabric for this purpose. PPS: just remember people (maybe even u) may have to sit on their wallet for hours, so thinner is better.

vinegroon is old time concoction made by disolving iron in vinegar (simple explanation), got search? I'll just go ahead and say that w/ 5 parts of dye u probably would not see much diff. between full strength. If you're going to continue experimenting.... there are shoe Dyes.

there's a thread for this... http://leatherworker...=1

Suggest that maybe u could check the threading through the top tensioner(s) and/or put up a pic for us. I'm Very amateur, but hav always heard loose bottom loops - look at top tension.

nice, but boy u got hairy arms

I might go back to the book, but I seem to recall that the advice was to give a "wash" of pink before applying. I remember the greenish color, but don't remember if it was brown they were talking about or how much precolor they suggested.

PM sent...

Ok, maybe more explanation and a pic will help? This is a mountain bike seat - a Milano model seat by Specialized to pin it down. http://www.specializ....jsp?spid=26010 the seat has gel pads under the cheeks and the channel is to give room for your tender parts After more thought - maybe they molded the cover over a form before it was even put on? Anyone hav easy way of doing this?

This sounds like strange question maybe, because I'm looking at a cut out in center of seat and wondering how the original cover was shaped to fit in there - even just "floating" as it doesn't appear that the glue really fixed. Right now I'm thinking vac formed or an external mold of some type.

I know it's only been 20days, but have you tried it out yet? VERY curious because I have a project in mind that requires a deep concave in the center. Thx

considered converting auto hoist/stand to your needs? I'm not saying there is one near you, but I like to adapt existing devices when possible. http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-67015.html http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html

thought oxalic acid was same thing ... and u can get at hardware store. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29924&st=0&p=187516&hl=+wood%20+bleach&fromsearch=1entry187516

Uknow before I came across the weld-on hub was thinking about bolting through the 3 holes in end of stock pulley/handwheel. As I was looking at small steering wheels for handwheel it occured that for just hand wheel could turn one out of wood. (thought it would be cool looking and unique.) Don't know if this is right name, but seems like u could take "floor flange" and a piece of pipe, then chuck the whole mess is a drill to do crude turning. Yeah, I'd suggest supporting the ends with drilled blocks because there could be some movement otherwise (good for drill here).

Yo, Anyone: is 58 stitches going to be just crazy slow? still faster than comfortable? (nonservo) Anyone who handwheels: will this pulley work for this too (thinking gloves)? several trips to outlying farm stores later: 11" weld-on pulley, 1/2bore - has 1" hub thickness (seems abut right for spacing). 4L belt - riding low in the 11" pulley, riding high in the orig. 2 1/2 motor pulley (made for a 3L belt). Speeds table: (calculated for a 1750 rpm motor) 2 1/2" drives 3" = 1250 (original pulleys) 2 1/2 > 11" = 92 (orig pulley + monster wheel) 2" > 11" = 58 (max reduction w/ 11") 5" > 11" = 365 (step up speed w/ 11"?) KAYAK45: "you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match." DRILLED? - Ream the hub for better fit, more concentric bore. (hubs in my stores only seem to be in 1/8 increments....if they had them all)