stanly

I'm planning on hitting several of the local farmers markets this summer with my leatherwork, so... I'd like to find either a bench that can fold or break down to fit on back of a motorcycle. Something about 14" x 20" or smaller (about size of lg daypack). OR plans to build one. So far the best Idea I've come up with is to layer two 3/4" plywood pieces then get screw on legs and brackets (question is whether the legs would hold up).

Congrats for trying to come up with orig designs! Next sounds like giving up, but considering frustration u mention, why not get a "top notch" wallet kit (least expensive on market) and use it as a template. This gets u past the design part and into tooling and assembly. I'll go even further and point out that most orig designs draw on earlier work(s) and so are not really "clean sheet". skive lambskin? Mine is so soft that would almost be like pinning Jello to the wall.

I too would be interested in exactly how u created this stamp, does your process allow something more 3-D?

Hello KKM; this sounds interesting, but at least 2 things need discussion. 1. make me a tightly fitting cat mask. Guess it depends on your idea of tight. I've made a custom skull cap and let's just say I had fingers crossed since it wasout of town. 2. I’m gonna plan on rubbing and nuzzling my head...need it to withstand such activity. I really only know that stage masks/ makeup have the hair glued to them, but don't know how that would stand up. Stanly

I don't know about prefered method, but I see it being shipped in tubes. So part of time it's already been rolled.

I have these glove that seem to be pretty nice and a name brand, BUT the lining keeps pulling out. I've seen other gloves with a couple stitches to hold the lining in place, but it's been done with a machine. Any ideas on how I could fix this myself?

is it me or are most of the links broken?

simple is good, Basic 7 (stamps) w/ upgraded swivel knife and mallet, some scraps to practice on so u don't have the all the "learning experiences" on your nice leather. Decide whether u will be stitching or lacing your first project, so u know which tools there... Not associated w/ Tandy, but it's kind of like W-Mart or KFC (convenient) Have u gone on here and looked at Classes, FREE how to vids, Leathercraft ABC's? http://www.tandyleat...p_keyword=books

Guy I took a different class from had made hundreds of feathers and would carve them out so fast u didn't really have time to appreciate everything he was doing, but my takeaways were: You've seen the multiblade hair knife, right? Very few feathers are 100% straight His feathers (Eagle I suppose) all had ruffs He wasn't trying to carve a stand alone feather, his all were attached, then the edges were lifted.

There are plans and even some good examples on here, invest the time, you'll wonder why u didn't do it sooner.

Good u realize ver 1.0, it will need much wider throat to be very useful.

must be that this isn't just general knowledge... I'll let it stay that way. Fixed. Eric's reply seemed very gneralized to me.

"find some guidance somewhere." this would be my ideal solution sounds like you're both saying skip the COA package deal just pay t o have stirk problem fixed. (machine seem clean inside and I oil about 1 /mo.)

I called around some and talked to someone who seems to think that this should be covered with a normal COA (clean, oil, adjust). I looked inside the end cover and can't see where there is an adjustment. guess I have 2 ques.: is this someting I could do myself? You think the "coverd by COA" statment just a setup for a later "Oh, that's an extra charge" routine?

I'm looking at Spectra or Dyneema- pros and cons, know any suppliers for small amounts? pulled this off site that seems industrial oriented (as in 200yd rolls)- The following properties characterize Spectra fiber: High flex strength Good UV resistance (comparable to polyester) Very high initial modulus numbers Superior breaking strength Susceptible to creep

I'd just to straight to the smallest motor pully u can find- stock speed for a 206RB is 2600 stiches /min.

^^^ I like how he relisted the band for same price and didn't even touch up the edges At same time admire for trying to make product out of some thing found on floor/in trash bin. there's another band too, that's well "different". http://www.ebay.com/...7#ht_115wt_1386 On the orig post I'm undecided, it's not rustic or vintage because my G.Grandma could have done a better job sewing w/ treadle and marking w/ wooden yardstick. I struggle with making things rough when it's reproduction or costume wear. I think I sometimes fail because can't bring myself to give it the beatings needed for the look, but rationalize that the new owner can give it the appropriate amount.

saddleback leather's bag has different seams that add to rigidity

kind of a small motor-2nd the speed reducer I'd at least get the std. foot w/ toe on each side- consider ordering package of assorted feet off Ebay whatever oil u've got u need zoom spout oiler thread? upholstery wt. at least.

After asking for personal experiences on this issue (have a Consew 206 RB), I decided to put on speed reducer first and being cheap not just a speed reducer, a Monster Wheel type reducer. Wow, u found a 1" pully! That must just about be a bushing with ridges on the edges.

I'll have to assume a typical machine lockstitch since your product pics don't show much. loops on the bottom is typically not enough top tension.

I'm hoping u checked to see that the glue will take over the waxed leather. i've had glove that pretty much lost their insulation value after being repeatedly treated w/ snoseal (polyinsul)

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tim: I'm interested, need to study your pics in detail on my own computer to be sure bag can be sewn on a flatbed. what's story on interior?

The uppers (outer and liner) are held together w/ separate stitching. The main stitching goes through uppers and 2 layers of sole w/ thin layer of padding between them. 3/8"- 1/2" seam allowance. This looks close http://www.vikingson.../kit-fig30h.htm 2 ways to do this? A. stitch heavier yet still flexible piece in as footbed, then turn slippers rightside out and glue outer sole on. B. remove old sole, turn seam allowance to outside and stitch sole on. this leaves the uppers layer on top of the welt. Suggestions, comments? Guess I should have asked for more than a yes or no in first post.