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stanly

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Everything posted by stanly

  1. I' m bumping to ask: does it seem strange that qarawol is sewing holsters (apparently) on something that our resident sewing machine expert says "don't waste your time trying to force an old Singer"? Think it has to with fact that he glues the layers together? Asking because there is a model 15 for sale and while I'd like to machine sew, just not able/ready to spend the bucks for newer machine.
  2. I'm guessing you're talking about wet or dry paper (black color)? it should be fine I'm in 5:30 min on vid and havent seen him draw blade away to sharpen yet. You understand that when u draw blade away to sharpen it will form a wire edge on the top side? (this is a BAD thing - will have to be removed)
  3. WESTBOUND, on 10 April 2010 - 09:23 PM, said: Thanks Pelallito, That is what I needed to know. I guess I will stick with the Stainless steel bolts for making my custom tools. Going to a junk yard and cutting out suspension springs is more than I want to deal with right now, although that is good to know for future reference. Stanly: Here is a idea/ fact about wrecking yard springs - 95% of the Ford Escort wagon rear OEM springs are already broken in two (common defect). IF you live near Spokane, WA I think I still have at least one FREE for you newfiebackflip Well I have an ace up my sleeve for these Argentine tools. My fiance is from there and her mother is going there next month. Maybe I can get her to see if she can find me some when she gets there lol If not I will have my little lady just translate the entire page for me to figure out how to get them. Stanly: "comprar" top button is "to buy in Spanish" the left button below the embossed in metal button is Tools for leather and has more tools. Think you could get your fiance to do a little shipping? Fiance mother visiting - district of Floresta, City of Buenos Aires? From Babel translation: To return to embossed in metal Mateadores They produce a drawing when pressing them on soft tin, aluminum, alpaca and other metals. 50 models, in three sizes: mini, medium and great. Art. 100 Art. 110 Art. 112 Art. 116 Art. 151 Art. 177 Art. 180 Art. 190Art. 194 Art. 199 Art. 200 Art. 201 Art. 202 Art. 169 Forms available click to extend The drawings are not to real size. In order to see them real size, it unloads the catalogue of tools to print. (pgs.s 6 to 9) The drawings show the reason that produces the tool when pressing it on the material. The numbers that will see when extending correspond to the model of each tool. an order mentions this number when doing.
  4. I'm curious about the buckle, it doesn't look like it is stitched on (the bear cover). are you just that good or is this something else?
  5. i've got a book of designs that includes a belt with semitrucks on it, so it has been done. I''ll admit it looks like some special tooling for those tiny wheels thought.
  6. Wish I had a camera so I could, Im rewetting because Im trying to "pick up" details that I missed the first time through
  7. ClayB: I can't be sure when in the sequence of dry, condition, tool, think about it - repeat - repeat - repeat that the cracking is appearing so you could be right - that at sometime I let the piece get a little dry before I tried to retool it. (usually trying to correct something with a spoon/smoother) Guess I need to try out a conditioner on a scrap anyway as my mink oil doesn't seem to be penatrating very far
  8. I'm getting cracking where I rebevel/ smooth my work. Should I be putting something on to condition even thought I'm not done? And of course I don't want to darken it. I'll admit to newbie status and that I seem to always go back over the the piece to touch up by recut/rebevelingl something-sometimes multiple times. thx
  9. Right upfront I'll admit I like Rick's reply better because mine is of the OMG type... pair of gloves that I was in a hurry to dry, they shrank, but only where I had small amount of oil on them....when I put them IN MICROWAVE!
  10. IMHO the problem is - supersheen is the wrong product to use. (it doesn't give total resist in that it allows top color to stick to ANY indentations in the piece). I experimented and had to use 6 coats of ss to equal 1 of blockout. . I have no Idea what to use for a really durable topcoat/finish as on a seat. (but Im not up to that yet, and would go w/ test pieces before trusting something I had lots of hours in to ANY topcoat).
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