stanly

I admit to total slipper/shoe ignorance....is this just so difficult /crazy that no one does it? I've got these slippers that the sole wore out on, it was kind of thin anyway (Fabric and plastic). Of course as turnouts they have the welt? on the inside.

know I'm late to this, but there's quy on here who made a skiver using utility knife blades (admittedly only 2 1/4" wide) ran couple searches and I can't come up with link, but it was basicly a wooden block angled on one side with a blade screwed to it using washers with shims. (he said 30 deg angle, but also said not critical).

anyone used/seen the adjustable focus glasses, even a demo? http://www.superfocus.com/ NOT affiliated

guess it does kind of seem like a French Seam, w/ a crease in place of the first sew line. (had to look up French Seamhere) http://koumori-no-hi...orial-326817095 Planned on doing trial run w/ squares of cloth even though not quite same as odd angles on cap.

when u need to make a temporary mark on leather what can u use? Leather in my case is soft and dark, need to mark several stitching lines.

Ques about seam overlaps- I'm making a custom cap with earflaps for someone and I had to use standin for the guy's head so I'm giving a double seam allowance (1"), that I'm planning to fold back on itself. This is to me some extra to work with in case an adjustment is needed. To make it more interesting this will be outside seamed and I'm planning to machine sew a line about 1/8" above the finishing line of whipstitch. My question is since the cap is made of four pieces that join together at the top is there a way of doing this that doesn't give me a really thick bunch of leather in center? Of course I'd like to do this with continuous lines of L to Rt and Front to Back stitching if possible.

you're going to wear out that belt loop pretty quickly, suggest a leather loop that belt is threaded through in the manner of some holsters

unless it's some tiny stitching on wallet 1/2 down FB page I don't see it. it's not too diff, but try starting out with just alternating color laces, then change up to the double loop two color.

I read the comics, but will need to see photos to decide.

everyone seems to experience this at first = feed dog needs to be moved up (rotate machine), the first couple times I crawled under table to see what the heck... I'll admit to some jealousy about servo, I cheaped out and went Monster wheel route. u can put layers of masking tape on dogs to smooth them some, U prob. got a selection so already know there are different walking feet that have no teeth (or could file down for permanent fix of you're fav feet). Flat bed is cheaper, but can be challenge to to sew inside some things. With a table on arm the cylinder can do every thing a flat can.

Consew 206rb needle strikes- machine sews, but has never had the needle centered in the hole in the lower feed dog. Sometimes when I'm going around sharp corners/in tight areas I get strikes. Is there an Adjustment to get needle centered?

guessing you've already tried this or gotten some local advice, but for anyone else who stumbles across this. the enclosed motor (and I don't remember rating on mine - 1A maybe) limits how much "needle push through" these home sewing types can generate and the bottom feed means that u may have to assist machine to pull the leather through (even if it's just triple thickness light weight wallet interior).

^^^ more worried about the metal being cheese than sharpness as these should be relativly easy to sharpen. and you're not paying osborne price as someone pointed out

I'm timed out, but there should be a online guide to threading yours or similar machine. PS: maybe try this ques in SEWING MACHINES subforum

I'm trying to do this in goatskin over a form and it just doesn't seem like the point of the vee is completely forming. Should I be pretreating with something before I soak the leather? Seems like I'm getting leather completely soaked, but maybe that's my problem?

Think the answer here is, it depends.... on how smooth u make the flesh side, whether we are talking short or long term, type of dye, etc. For max resistance I'd use spirt dye over as smooth as u can get it by sanding, slick it afterward, then put on a sealer followed with a wax of some type. U are right-guitar strap would be quite a bit of stitching: did u consider lacing the edges or tacking the lining on then taking to upholstery shop for the sewing?

I messaged the guy about a mo ago - think he is dead.

If I only had one shovel it would be a bent handle w/ plastic blade. But I also have a steel bladed straight handle for scraping down to walkway (u can wax it up like skiis to prevent ANY snow clinging).

this link shows finished purse and assembly (cloth) http://www.jcaroline...Screen=HOBO_BAG know U already have it johngg, but for others.

Forum seems very courtious, so wondering if there is unwritten rule about not grilling the poster about their proposed project in the thread. Example: Replacing My Dad's Belt - now this is an item that u can still buy new and I'm guessing is produced by some kind of process that would be foreign to most of us. SO, is he looking for a stronger "look alike", knows all of the above and is willing to Pay for some experimentation, hasn't heard of Ebay...? FWIW: I've finished off (as torn apart) a couple of similar belts and it seems like 2 very thin layers of leather (sometimes) bonded/molded around a fiber core that gives the shape and cushioned feel . They seem to fail in same place because of this construction.

oxalic acid also is used as deck bleach- found at building supply stores iin liquid form. AND mostly what I'm getting from the above tables is .... Damn those rats are tough.

HellfireJack Posted Yesterday, 07:20 PM I read somewhere that after you clean them you grasp the tip between the lips and spin it to help maintain the shape. These both seem like good ideas, maybe I should have mentioned brushes very small and some are shaders (flat). Normally answer might be toss them and get new ones, but even some of the new ones seem to be this way. Hellfirejack-so what I'm getting is U think it would help if I spun them & spit on brushes. (I also heard that story about workers who used to put radium dots on watches - guess that didn't make it seem like recommendation)

This was probably covered in art 101 class about 40yrs ago, but... I've tried soaking, pinching into shape then letting set to dry. This doesn't seem to do it permanently. Seems like some of the new brushes are stiff at first-like some kind of sizing in them?

Good to find this thread.... as I was wondering if as the weather gets less nice it is possible to suntan behind glass or plastic. Thanks too to the other thread that discusses making a reflective sun box to speed process.

is there a world where 2" belt loops are common? Finding it annoying to look at this great pattern, then discover - oops, trip to coppier needed. I'll agree that certainly easier to work on something that's 1/2" OR MORE wider, but I'd think would limit to gun and tool belts. Rant over