stanly

harnessman Posted 29 August 2010 - 07:27 AM Stocksuspension, on 28 August 2010 - 11:05 PM, said:were did you buy that pulley? "Hi It is a Hubless weld on stamped steel pulley used around here in Wisconsin on farm equipment. I bought the pulley at Mills Fleet Farm, the local farm supply store. You can also find them at any farm implement dealer. If you do not have a farm implement store handy you can probably find them on line at TSC (tractor supply co.)" You know I liked this idea too, so I went down to my local farm supply store and found th aisle with these. First problem was 3/8" belt is not most common, but even though my Monster Pulley is a 4/8" because they made it wo/ a bottom a 3/8" belt rides lower in grove, but works (means I may not have to change my motor pully to 4/8" after all). Now the question is: how slow is too slow? (I will have a 2 1/2" motor pulley driving 11" when this is over) a 11" instead of 10" because of the low grove thing + cheaper to switch the smaller motor pulleys Trox: I'm still working out details like spacer and belt sizes, mostly due to stocking level zero of some items at farm store.

So u have prestitched interiors? I'll go ahead and say the stitching is more imprortant on the outside. Some just let the back side stitching fall where it may, but some CREASE back side and kind of "feel" for the needle point just before it comes through, then adjust acordingly. Usually these are heavier wt., simpler items than wallet interiors. I emphasize the crease part because some interiors are thin enough that any grooving would prob. go 1/2 way through. hope this helps

U know even it he is wrong - your custom hardware looks very similar to this, and this is much more available: (guess I need the how to post pic tutorial) http://www.build.com...pgr_1400966=

this has all been helpful.....so, what about Rice where they have a letter size: Rice Polyamide Silamide Thread Spools Size - F / 140 yards: $4.50 Rice / N.B.T. Brand Silamide Waxed Thread Skeins Size - A / 675 yards: $6.50 I'm guessing this is a thinner thread?

Thanks for getting back to this: para 1- I'm having a tough time visualizing this - don't suppose u have an illustration handy? pars 2- U know the chainstitch I am talking about is 2 thread, NOT daisychain?

I'll put up the Utube links of machines that seem be doing this: This looks like a machine doing exactly what I'm talking about.... and showing the bobbin case (in about .22), but I can't see how it's routed. http://www.youtube.c...feature=related Sorry I confused everyone else be telling how I arrived at asking such an odd question (seemed to me). Thanks Art link to 2 thread chainstitch machine - invented 1994 http://zarif-sewingmachine.blogspot.com/

I'm wondering if it's possible to adapt a lockstitch flatbed machine to feed the thread from a spool instead of a bobbin? I heard from my local sewing machine dealer that this is common for Chainstitch machines and used some kind of tube? Guessing for feeding/routing, maybe open on side to make it easier to get thread in? Are there clear pictures of this setup somewhere? Esp. what happens going into the bobbin case? Thanks This guy had same question - never got answered http://leatherworker...h=1 And for kicks - here's a link that illustrates some of the different stitching types (being formed) http://oldsewingmach...candanex.co.uk/

I see that Consew site has them for 206RB-5, anyone know the differance? (know they went to servomotor) Is there a source for the lit. for the RB-3? (online and free) Thx

Found this on the net, seller doesn't seem to know much about it (or even a name), I'm trying to bet some better pics from him. Any information you can give about the beast would be appreciated.

Looks like I can't edit, so.... over wkend-found out 1"x1/2" glue area was way too much unless I wanted to windup lifting 10gal., revised to 1/4"x1". (Chart interpolated to reflect) I'll continue as soon as I can rig to support/lift 5gal+ (milk jugs seem to be leaking @ caps) glues: Gorilla glue (wood)= 74oz Tanners Bond = 1 gal+ 50oz Strong Stik = 5gal+ Hotmelt glue = 5gal+

I decided to test the 4 glues I found locally (hardware + Tandy). While I didn't get all the way through due to hardward fail, I'm going to put up result anyway before wkend. I'm also putting up the rig I'm using to test with in hope that others will join in and make this a more comprehensive test - esp like to hear from the green Weldwood, Masters, any homebrew that people use. 1.- 2" wide strip of TV dinner box folded in half and glued with shiny side out. 2.- use test glue to glue 2 of these strips (now 1" wide) toghther in a lap jount at end so there is 1/2" overlap. 3.- You should now should have 2 strips glued end to end by a 1/2" lap joint 4.- reinforce one of non glue test ends of strip by by glueing a 2" doubled strip around the end - this is end weight hangs from. (I punched hole and hung weight from nail/shoelace) 5.- attach weight system of choice (I'm went with fluid oz) and pick up slowly to avoid shock load. glues: Gorilla glue (wood) Tanners Bond Strong Stik Hotmelt glue fail: 1 gal + 20oz hardware hardward

I went ahead and bought a tube of the DAP® STRONGSTIK® Instant Grab Adhesive to try it out. It was about $3.60 for 5oz tube only thing label mentions as hazardious ingredient is Ethylene Glycol and crystalline silica. Will update on effectiveness. Wonder how compares to the green label contact cement?

thx- am I correct in guessing will be found at art supply stores rather than the building supply?

bright colors (there is tooling) and don't want the antiquing to cover any of it. I put on two coats of block out, will this do it or should I do something more? Is there such a thing as liquid masking tape?

I agree - Cristo comes to mind.... Though the pragmatic side says it's a bunch of belts stitched together, then pushed onto rods. AND the leatherworker's heartbeat doesn't have much to do with it except an element of variation (minor at that).

Thanks for the replys guys (was begining to think unwritten rule - no piggybacking) Wolf9: I'm in WA

I've found that sometimes the Tanners Bond #C-1339 from Tandy just doesn't stick as well as I'd like. Anyone tried this: saw a "new" product from DAP at lumber store (daygo orange package, abut a 6 or 8 oz tube), claims to have 10 min set time. http://www.dap.com/p...=76&SubcatID=10 reading the MSDS doesn't seem all that friendly until u read the info on other products.

I've got a couple of these (singer 111 - 211) for sale semi-local to me, so is there a list that gives the various options by model no.? (a 11w?) Is reverse one of those model options or could have been added later? will I see a big bar for this if they send me a pic? OK, found this, think some of my questions still apply though. only first link is giving specs for example. 211a -------http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/211a.htm 211w,g,gx: http://www.industria...ingers/211w.htm 211u----http://www.industria...ingers/211u.htm 411u----http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/singer/411u.htm

Is there a preferance for this reason? Wondering because some of members here refer to their finished projects as "bricks". It would seem to be contrary for something that you are going to be sitting on for perhaps hours at a time to value thickness. My latest wallet (biker) measures out at the binding as 3/8" and if I'd wanted to use liner material for the inner partitions it could have been less. Am I just shooting myself in foot by going this way (in terms to selling product)?

in a 300pg cat. search found Skull conchos and belt buckles ta2: Try jpcycles.com, I've seen them in the catalog they send me I see belts and buckles - some wouldn't be caught dead in. (I know, should have bought some 3yrs ago when this was current)

i've seen people use a block with a hole in it to back up the work when driving the awl through - guess idea is that way awl can't hit anything.

thanks: kind of what I deduced from Sewmum last reply, but always good to get it in definite terms.

guess I should elaborate on my ignorance here -- as in what does blind hem mean and how suitable for sewing leather? Let's go all the way and ask what do the various -2 through -32 (as far as I've seen listed) on the back of model number mean?

Says it's American made, looks like a 150-? model from shape of cover. Obviously there is a belt droven motor under there. things to watch out for, parts availability, how suitable, etc.?

think all stock seats are combined rider/ pillion example: