ramrod

i've never seen anything like this....but i'd like to get a hold of some myself. i've been looking at esslinger.com for watch hardware, but they have nothing like this. i just did a search for this. i found a website that is calling the hardware you have pictured "zulu" hardware. the "nato" hardware is rectangular - according to their website (wristsolutions)

i never realized that it was made in thicknesses other than lining, because that's all i've ever used it for. i don't see why you couldn't use it for belts or slings if it were lined or sewn to something else.

they have nowhere the holding capability that the copper rivet and burr does.

try esslinger for watch band parts. click on "watch parts" and then "watch band parts" on the drop down menu. when i make a watch band, i use2 oz. or so, line it with a polyester fill stiffener and then line it with pigskin. mine are hand sewn. it makes for a firm band with a little bit of definition to it. it's vey time consuming, but i'm only making them for myself. i haven't seen much of a market for them. i also use upholstery leather, lamb and calf. the other day at tandy, they had a real neat bunch of scrap that was imprinted with a kind of carbon fiber print. it's about 2 or 3 oz. and rather firm. i lined it with a very thin lambskin. i wish i could post pics on here. i'd send a few over to show you.

as i read this thread, i immediately thought of ABF. i see their trucks all of the time with the "you load, we move" on the back. seems like a great idea to use them. is there a neighboring business that has a fork truck that you could rent?

you're welcome, guys. let us know how you make out with your linen purchase.

bearman - do you take paypal?

i thought of the squeeze bottle idea, but the one i have (for insance) doesn't seal very tight around the neck. i can see a wad of cured glue inside of it if i use it. i really like the screw top glass jar idea. what's been happening to me is when i use the weldwood container, it never really seals tightly because of the drying glue around the lid. so, it cures inside of the can as i use it and work it down to the bottom. by the time i have an inch left, it's almost hard. so, i have been pouring about an inch at a time into the old can and using it out of there so i don't waste so much. looks like a small glass container will work nicely....still gotta think about the squeee bottle, though.

i realize that this is an old thread, but what ever happened with this? looking at this, i would have been remotely interested in doing this.....by hand. but it wouldn't be cheap. wiz - this thread made me laugh. it shows that you really know your machines. i wouldn't know a puritan high post chain stitch machine if it fell on me.

i'm intrigued with this. i have seen this website before, but i can't remember where. i'm interested in the strength of the skins. i always thought that kangaroo leather was the strongest leather available. i'd like to work with this stuff to see what it's all about. if it's as strong as what's been said, this would make some cool watch bands. i wonder what the average thickness is. it can't be THAT thick....not like cow. it looks to be less than 1 oz. (or equivalent). spin - let us know what you think when you get your samples.

i've never seen one with a thumb hole in it.....can you show an example of it? would the hole be in the padded area?

i just bought a spool from randall campbell. shipping was a bit slower than i thought it would be, but i'm satisfied with the product. if you want a good starting point for linen, try their 4 cord. it's very close to what you'd get at tandy. is feels like it's close to the 277 nylon i stitch with.

i agree with this. i always feel like i've been the victim of a bait and switch type of ploy. also, their leather sale prices sometimes are the same for everyone - not just the club members. i feel that if i've paid $150 for a membership, i should ALWAYS get better pricing than anyone walking in off of the street.

have you tried the thread exchange? they seem to have a lot of everything.

i have used tandy exclusively because they're only about 10 minutes from me. i haven't joined the "club" so far this year, but i hope to asap, but money is short at this time. maybe i don't know any better, but i'm reasonably satisfied with their quality.....except for their awls. one thing i can say about them....i most usually end up spending more than i expected when i go there. i don't like the fact that many prices on leather aren't posted. i feel like i'm being taken every time the cash register rings.

once again, thank you to all for replying. i just got back from an extended weekend so i couldn't reply until now. i'll give the tension adjuster a go and see if it makes it any better. i haven't really noticed any marks until i used some smooth 4 oz. leather. i'm not sure why it chose this leather to manifest itself, but i wanna stop it before the next project.

how do i go about reducing the foot pressure on my 211g155? the marks seem to be heaviest on the backside where the teeth make contact with the leather. almost like...i don't know....train tracks. and will reducing the foot pressure alter anything else?....like thread tension? crazy question, but i'm covering all the bases.

excellent pics and info. i hadn't realized that manufacturers products varied so widely - within the same cone. i still owe bob a call to get my material guide....and now some needles. i WILL be calling you bob.

it would be nice to see a picture of how badly your watch bands are wrinkling. i think what is happening is that you are forming them flat. are you using a lining? are you using a filler? i am making watch bands at the moment and here's how i eliminate the wrinkles. i glue a filler strip on first. then i line it using pigskin. when i glue the lining in, i grab the band with my left hand and pull it through my right thumb and index finger forming a curve as i pull it. once you do it that way, it's pre curved with no wrinkles. if i could post a pic, i'd show you mine.

well, thank you for the reply, eric. this helps a lot. some of that is over my head, however. i didn't realize that you could alter the loop size - or does a tension change automatically do that? stitch length i get - i figured that something like a watch band would want a 10 to 12 SPI anyway.

i've read the links to needle sizing and needle and thread size, but i can't find this info: what is the smallest needle size i can use on my 211g155? i'm using #138 thread right now for the stuff i'm sewing. but i want to make some watch bands. the needle i have in the machine now is too big. i can't tell what size it is because the size info is all worn away. ideally, i'd like to drop down to #69 thread with the appropriate needle size. thank you.

i'll call them monday.

i ordered from them last saturday. i thought that the thread would be here by now. how long did yours take to arrive?

would you please send one my way, too? my email address is tkramsey@gmail.com thank you very much

i was told that you could even fashion an awl out of masonry nails, somtimes calld "cut nails". i don't have any on hand or else i'd try it. but i'm going to use a hex wrench on my next go around.