George B

Welcome Joe

I've been a member for a number of years, and to be truthful, I wouldn't be making a living today if not for this site and the information given to me by others here. That said, I very seldom offer suggestions or comments to those seeking information here. I used to, and enjoyed passing on what I have learned to others. But over the last couple of years I have encountered way too many members that seem to be on the prowl, looking for opportunities to create conflict with others. In many cases lately, creating the conflict themselves with posts designed to suck in the helpful members trying to answer questions. What makes this even worse in my mind is that some of the individuals causing conflict are "contributing members". All they seem to contribute is grade variety fertilizer. I still log on to see what others are doing but I do not offer any input, good or bad, I don't need the grief of logging on later to find out a notorious, contributing member leather troll has turned my suggestion into a point of conflict. As expressed by many smarter people before me, this should be a place where you can come look at all the pretty pictures, ask questions and impart knowledge and advice to others. Unfortunately that is not the case any longer. Now we have members belittling and berating others simply because they didn't have a good day, can't make a living making leather items or just plain old woke up on the wrong side of the bed. I will continue coming here to see what is new but will continue to not participate in discussions until the herd is weeded. Contributing members that are here to simply create conflict should be eliminated from here, or at best lose the "contributing member" status. Sorry for my rant but it just plain old makes me angry that some ruin it for everyone. George

In my opinion, making the pattern and learning to "tweak" it to the perfection you want, is the hardest part of making the holster. Bought a couple of pattern packs from well known makers and had decent results, but it always felt like cheating. I have nothing against those that buy patterns and those that make patterns for sale, but, the thing that has set me apart is being able to design and make holsters that are truly mine. "Give a person a pattern and they can make a holster. Teach them to make their own pattern and they can make whatever the hell they want" (Yep, stole part of that!)

The Bluegun of the PX4 looks pretty rough around the edges of the expect port, all the Ring's I've bought seem to have sharpr detail. That looks kind of like a cross between a Ring's and a Duncan's. Just my two pennies worth.

Welcome. Dover Tennessee here. George

Have to agree. This place used to be a wonderful spot to gain knowledge, help and that pat on the head. These days its a lot of so called experts poking the bear and then acting like "you" are the sensitive one. I sold a total of 337 pancake holster last year alone. I made them "my" way and have had only one returned because 8 oz. leather was not heavy enough. I make a living doing this and don't have the time for all the "expert" BS that goes on here. I'm done. You all have a good life and I'll enjoy mine. Taking the shortcut off the puter and ending my membership. Bye.

Been using Barge's cement since the day I started building saddles. Used Weldwood a couple of times when I ran out of Barge's, it did the job with 2-3 coats that the Barge's did with one. Since I do holsters now, time is important, and I have found the Barge's to take less time without one separation over the years. George

Have to agree on the edges. A little more time and they could look good. Also, try to keep the barrel end of the pistol up inside the leather at the bottom. Keeps the additional wear off it from being exposed. Otherwise looks pretty dang good. Keep it up. George

Different strokes for different holster buyers. All of mine are tight with as much contact with the weapon as possible. Unless the buyer wants it different. I have had a few occasions where the weapon was too tight for the customer's satisfaction. A small shipment of KG-9 solved the problem. I make the so called 50/50 pancakes and that is the only style of pancake that I make. I do not make flat backs. No particular reason, just don't. I have not had any of the problems discussed by some makers, guess I'm just lucky. Over the last 6 years I have sold quite a few of them and have a large repeat customer base because of the retention they offer. Maybe they are not for everyone but they have done just fine by me. With Avengers I make them tight as all get out figuring that after breaking in they will have less tension across the front and lose some of the retention. Can't say I'm any kind of expert, its just my humble opinion.

That's a hard one to answer if the customer has the gun. Problem for me would be not knowing which revolver frame it corresponds with. There are some S&W dummy guns and some Rugers but I haven't seen much on the Rossi. Need to determine that first then shop for the dummy gun with a similar frame size in 4 inch .357. Could be a J, K or L but I would bet a J or K S&W. Also how many shot cylinder? That can make a difference in the girth of the gun.

I have considered the glued Kydex as well but would need to stitch it in place. Just don't trust the glue by itself. The difficult thing about the Kydex is when I'm doing an Avenger and trying to figure out exactly where the rail will rub. Thanks Dwight, George

I've given Kydex a thought and will try to figure it out when I get time. I don't touch anything with a light attached to it. Did one and it looked like a dang shoe. Thanks, George

Hey All, been a while since I've had the opportunity to post anything. Just keeping way too busy with the orders and family. Is there something I'm missing to keep the Picatinny rail and the new more aggressive rails from tearing the heck out of my holsters? I let everyone I make one for or have made that the rail will eventually tear up the inside of the holster where it contacts, and, may eventually effect the life of the holster. Some are so aggressive that I will not even take on the job. Anybody figured out how to deal with this? Any and vice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, George

I couldn't find anything similar. Thought the 709 slim would work but no go. Ended up buying the blue gun. Biggest problem is finding someone willing to pay for a custom holster for a $250 gun. Everything I've made for it has been cheap "one holster does many functions" at a cheap price.

Just being a one man shop I can turn out 33 pancakes and avengers in a week figuring 5 days at 10 hours a day. Gun show season and the holidays makes my winters nothing but work. I hand cut, hand edge, machine sand then hand sand edges, hand applied edge dressing and machine sewn.

great look.

Light to medium belts I do flat and heavy belts like double 8 oz. I do a slight curve using a 5 gallon bucket. Either way you run the risk of wrinkles, whether on the front or back. Back when worn front when flat, I would rather have the back wrinkle a little than have the front wrinkle. The only ones I've ever had wrinkle were early belts using either crappy leather or leather taken too close to the belly.

Great tutorial. Only wish it had been here when I had to learn by trial and error. Pretty much the way I do it with the exception of detailing after assembly by just dampening the front panel.

lookin' good as always.

Looks very good.

I stopped doing EBAY years ago due to the importance they place on feedback and the change in seller feedback policies. I would probably never do that again. I use my own website and ETSY as a store to list items that are completed and ready for sale. I have found that when inventory dips below 150 items sales slow down drastically. One of the reasons ETSY has been good for me is because I do almost every gun show I can get into within a certain radius, about 400 miles. Gun shows have made a major difference in my store traffic. It was a lot of work and time but has paid off this last year. While on the road I stop at all sporting goods and gun stores passing out cards to whomever will take them. I go through 1500 to 200 cards a year. Make sure you price yourself according to the quality of work you are doing. Being the same price as a better made item will result in few sales. If you beginner work (as I did) price it as such.

Thanks everyone for the kind words. Rick, the customer was going for a look on the Avenger, kind of a BBQ holster. Customer picked up both yesterday and ordered two more plus a tooled carry belt. If physically possible I give the buyer what they want and it has definitely paid off. The customer's first holster I made was a knock-off of the Yaqui slide style Chuck Norris used in Walker. Not my style but I'm not the one paying for it. Haha.

Well Dwight, I ended up short twice on the same rig. Definitely a "Dee-Dee-Dee!" moment. It has never happened again and I have not had to sew, Haha. Didn't want to tell everyone of my stupidity but you have forced my hand. I give advice from experience. I have since taken to using a modified cloth measuring tape, using it with shell casings, to do the loops and then adding in for the leather. So far it has worked well and is a lot faster than sewing or starting over again.

One thing I would add. Error on the side of more than less. Too closely spaced and the cartridges press against each other. Also, make sure your loop material is long enough to complete the job.

Customer wanted a typical western holster in about a 30 degree cross draw as well as something unusual using the same Ruger Super Blackhawk pistol. The unusual was a Tom Threeperson inspired cross draw Avenger holster. Only took 3 tries at getting the height correct without the pistol pulling away from the body. Used about 25 degree cant as well as a partial welt under the trigger guard. Customer wanted about 3/8" of barrel protruding. Thanks for looking.