Josh Ashman

It looks pretty good to me too George. Funny how everybody sees things differently. Some folks think they have top tier stuff but I see junk, then you come along and call this the "world's ugliest" and I think it looks pretty dang good. Unless something isn't right with the form and function that doesn't show up in the pictures I'd call it "distressed" and raise the price $15. It'd probably be the next one to go out the door. Best regards, Josh

SLC has the triangle and ring type. it's their part number 4-100 and they call it a "Ring, Round, Tri". Weaver has the ring with a loop offset 90 degrees all in a single piece in 2 different sizes, their piece marks 498 Loop & Ring and 499 Loop & Ring. The 2 pin and ring type are pretty good looking but I haven't noticed the hardware for them before. You could probably use any ring and just figure out your own pins if you wanted to take the time to look over them and figure them out. Good luck, Josh

Depends on the look you're going for. If you want a "period" or "authentic" look go with the two coats of NF then rub in a healthy amount of Aussie Wax or Sno Seal and set it in the sun for a few hours on each side. It'll make a durable rugged look that gets better over time. The scabbard, bags and saddle pictured below were finished this way. Keep in mind, the more sun they get, the darker they get. Good luck, Josh

Very nice Robert, thanks for posting! All the best, Josh

Looks to me like a low to middle of the line saddle when it was new, the 60's or 70's is probably close. With in-skirt rigging on a production saddle I'm not certain it was ever meant to be roped out of. The pictures you posted today appear to me to show a Ralide tree with a break in it. I would turn this into a wall hanger or think up some interesting western décor item to make out of it. Tearing the saddle apart, trying to repair the crack in the tree and putting it all back together would exceed the value of the saddle in IMHO. If that is a crack in picture #3 I wouldn't use this saddle. There's my 2 cents. Josh

Outstanding Bobby, thanks for sharing! All the best, Josh

A Threepersons holster with the trigger totally exposed is "safe" if used correctly. I'm with Lobo on this one guys. Your holster construction won't stop somebody's bad habits/poor firearm handling nor will it fix them. There's my 2 cents, it's worth just what it cost you

Okioof, It's a little hard for me to tell from you picture what border your talking about. For the type of holster you have shown typically I'll scribe my border lines for the "outside" edges right after I cut the piece of leather to shape. Next I'd go ahead and place the reinforcement piece where it will go and scribe a line around it for a clean border. I use an adjustable compass to do both and I try to leave about an 1/8" from the edge or stich line to the outside of my border stamp. Once the lines are laid out I'll cut them with a swivel knife, bevel then tool or just tool to the scribe line depending on what I'm going after. I don't have any pictures of a holster the same style as the one you have shown above but the technique doesn't really change from the western rig below. Good luck, Josh

You're welcome and thank you Monica!

Incredibly classy work Frank, thanks for sharing! Best regards, Josh

Thanks Red & 4 Wheeler! Best regards, Josh

Thanks Robert, Camano, Haystacker and Bobby! Have a great Friday and weekend guys!

Thanks Steve and Duane!

Here are a few more pics of the finished holster.

I just built this for a new customer and he wanted to see the progress along the way so I figured I'd share how I build these. This is 10/11 HO craftsman, Fiebings liquid black antique and M&G cut 50/50 with water for the final finish. #1 Draw your pattern, Stohlman's holster book gives the details better than I'll ever type up. Tip - I use vellum printer paper for my new patterns. It's heavy enough to use a few times and you can see through it which is pretty nice for making things symmetrical. Tip #2 - I will lightly shade along an edge making the line as wide as needed to look good then erase the portion until I have a clean line to use. #2 Cut the pattern. I use a head knife but to each their own. #3 Cut border lines and stamp (or don't, whatever you like). Once the moisture is about out of it I'll edge everywhere but the main seam. #4 Oil, I use 100% neatsfoot oil. Let it soak in overnight. #5 Slick the edges. I use water and a piece of cordura. #6 Dye and let dry. #7 Assemble, make sure you don't block yourself off. I hand sewed the snap piece on then machine sewed the belt loop then machine sewed the main seam and lastly I installed the other end of the snap after making sure it would fit as needed. #8 Sand the main seam then edge, dye and slick it. #9 Apply your final finish and touch up all of the edges. And your done!

I've used SNO Seal a bunch and have had fine results. You certainly won't be hurting a hunting holster or knife sheath. It could possibly "hurt" a concealed carry holster and the reason I say this is that it will soften the leather which is fine for some things but not so much for others. If you want a rigid holster that the gun "clicks" into you don't want soft and pliable leather, for a hunting holster that has a retention strap, soft and pliable is good. I apply this and all similar types of "grease" (mink oil, Aussie Wax, Saddle Butter, etc.) by rubbing in a good coat with my fingers then putting it in the sun to soak in for a few hours. If sunlight isn't an option I'll set it in front of the wood stove, or leave it on the dash of a truck with the windows up, anything to "melt" it into the leather. The amount of darkening will vary and sunlight will increase how dark it goes. Camino's scrap suggestion is the only way to know how much or if you're OK with it. Good luck, Josh

+1 to what Bruce has above. The only thing I'll add is that you can use a heavy, firm chap leather in the 6oz range as well. I prefer latigo but it does come at a price and I've found chap leathers that work good for stings and save a little. The other thing is that they'll bb more "broken in" if that's something you're looking for.

Thanks Monica, Bob, Bobby & JT! Bob, as always you have great advise!

Good advice from Big Sioux and Ron. The first Stohlman book is all you'll need for a while if funds are tight you could just get it and get familiar with how saddles work and how they're put together. Your plan of fixing on old saddle up isn't at all bad but the saddles you picked up aren't the ones you want to do it with IMO. Good luck, Josh

Thanks Grey, Camano & leatherquestions! There isn't any padding in the scabbard. It's unlined 10/11 HO vegtan.

Here is a scoped scabbard and set of pommel bags I just finished up. I took the pictures this morning and although they flow pretty nicely everything in them belongs to a different person . The horse is mine, the saddle is one I built for my wife last year (it's color matched the scabbard and bags better than any of mine), the bags are for one customer and the scabbard is for another customer. Thanks for looking, Josh

Thanks Ol'toot. I appreciate your input. This is my 2nd "drawn straight on the leather" floral pattern and your comments would greatly improve it. Best regards, Josh

Thanks for the kind words guys, I appreciate it! Dwight, that is actually a fairly inexpensive bowie I picked up from Smokey Mtn Knives. It's branded Colt but made in Pakistan and ran somewhere south of $30. I put them in a nice sheath like that and give them to the kids or in-laws for b-day presents. Best regards, Josh

10oz HO finished with Fiebings Hi-lighter. Then I decided I wanted more contrast so I used Neat-lac for a resist then black antique. Topped off with another round of Neat-lac. Thanks for looking, Josh

very nice Red!