Tree Reaper

Is that the little wooden mallet they supplied in the kit?

Is this guy still a sponsor here? I thought he pulled his ads but he is still advertising in the suppliers forum. Name: Kevin UserName: Tree Reaper IP Address: 174.92.28.44 Email Address: kvn.rob@sympatico.ca

Hey Jesleright; I want it to cut coasters. My carving isn't that great, I'm still learning but slowly improving . I wonder if the rotary tool wood be better for leather? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41vo1QfXwkL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I want to buy one, Springfield and Tandy don't carry anything that will cut a circle. I have used a compass and knife, looking for something quicker. I'm aware of the mat cutters but not sure which one would be best suited for leather. Been looking at http://www.misterart.com/store/imagepreview.cfm?group_id=7560 Thanks. Kevin.

You can take the ram to any machine shop and have it drilled and tapped for the chuck you have.

A drill press will give you more room to work but an arbor press will work also, you will need a chuck.

Hey Ray; Something to consider might be a press for holding the tools while you crank the handle and make the impression in the leather. A drill press or arbor press with a three jaw chuck would hold the tool. Just a thought. Kevin.

Are you using a stitching horse? I wouldn't buy another Tandy awl, in fact I'm looking at buying one from Bob Douglas next week. You can probably get a replacement awl for that handle. Kevin

You can make a stropping block, strop the knife until it is polished and every time you use it and while using it. I just made one a few weeks ago....http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29391 Cutting the leather will depend on what you are carving, decorative cuts sometimes won't be as deep and outlines can be up to half the thickness of the leather. Try doing a search here and see what you come up with.

You could glue the outside edges and cut them on a bandsaw, ten or twenty at a time. Kevin.

This guy is advertising them. http://www.theleatherguy.org/FUR-TAILS-FACES/Beaver-Tails-15447/6629621--1-Veg-Tan-Beaver-Tails/ProductInfo.aspx Raw tails can be had from a trapper and then tanned. They can be broken and it wouldn't take much work for inlay leather. I sold a few to Fur Harvesters Auction House in North Bay, Ontario. If I'm not mistaken they were offering two bucks a raw tail. They had a supplier making wallets at the time. Kevin.

Greg; Look for dvd's on what interests you. If you don't know how to use the tools or where to use them you will only get discouraged. I bought a dvd of George Hurst carving an oak leaf and even though I had the tools needed I had no clue as to how to use them or where. All I did was waste time and leather. See how it's done, do it the same way and improve. Kevin.

I wouldn't use a damp sponge, put it on quick and leave it alone. If you miss something wait till it dries and go back at it. I'll use dauber or sheep wool.

Hi Mojo; Stohlman suggests the smallest hole possible. It might be better to awl from both sides if you are having a problem or awl all the way through from the back side only. Large holes give the stitching a bad appearance according to Stohlman. Kevin.

Thanks reddevil; The belt blank I was stitching had been dyed with a water based dye and was completely dry. The information I read on this states to wet the stitching area prior to stitching but I thought this might cause problems with the dye. When it only happened to one side of the belt I thought it was due to a problem with the leather itself. Maybe stitching then dying is the way to help prevent this, but I'm not sure. The leather blank was really old so this may have contributed also. Kevin.

TO; The leather was dry, is it better to stitch when the leather is still damp? Kevin

I was stitching a belt yesterday and the leather started splitting in hairline cracks out towards the edge of the belt. It happened at every stitch hole but just on one side of the belt. This was a belt blank that I bought. Any ideas as to what caused this? Is it a bad piece of leather or pilot error? Thanks. Kevin.

Nicely done!

No problem, here's another idea I had so I could use one piece of leather and not use that metal strip on the back. It's going to take longer to fill it up than it did to make it!

If you don't have the tools you can mark the line by running a compass or divider along the edge putting a light scratch in the damp leather then use a ruler to mark the spacing along that edge for the stitching. If you want to invest in the tools I can tell you what to buy. Kevin.

http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/21431/Money-Clip%2CBar%2CBp/ I just used a couple. Kevin.

Moe; What are they charging for tails? I have a wallet made from beaver tail and I really like it. The auction house in North Bay was buying them from trappers a few years ago. I have never tanned one but I skinned a few out.

Not sure if this is for credit cards but I just want to mention you can wipe out the magnetic strips on the back of the cards with magnets.

Terry; You nailed the problem with it sticking. I have a sewing awl needle in there and it's straight, that's why there's drag drawing the needle out. I have another stitching awl on the way with spare blades so I'll pop one in when they arrive. I'm sure that will work. Making a better deck for the press today, looking forward to trying it on a project. Thanks Terry!

After reading this I went and dug out my arbor press, I had a three jaw drill chuck adapted to it several years ago which is perfect for holding a needle. The only problem being the needle wants to stick coming out of the leather and bees wax doesn't help. Mink oil helps and it will probably be ok on dyed leather but it might stain natural leather, not sure yet, still experimenting. I don't have a sewing machine but I imagine that's what the foot does is holds the leather down. The press makes it cowboy simple for punching holes in leather. Kevin.