Tree Reaper

Try soaking it in water then take it out and tack it on a board to see if you can get it to open up again then when it's almost dry oil it and begin breaking it again. You shouldn't have to re-tan it.

What tanning method did you use?

How does that work, with friction? I sewed a button on my jacket to keep the sling on my shoulder. Kevin.

I have tanned many hides and they all get fleshed then put in the tanning solution, taken out, tacked on a board then just before they completely dry they get broken and oiled to soften them up. The process usually takes a week for large hides. If the oil you used is water soluble I would say re-soak, take them out and tack them to a uniform shape. Is the hair on or off? Kevin.

That makes sense, thanks for explaining it.

Kevin; In the picture it looks like you wedged the back side, is there a reason for not wedging front and back leaving the welt in the center?

You don't have to miter the joints on the wooden frame if you cover them with leather. Just miter the leather joints using a knife. You will need a good construction adhesive to glue the wood at the joints. If you can find a cheap one already made that will fit your picture you might be better off. The leather thickness will be a personal choice, veg tanned leather will work. Basket weave stamping may not be the right choice on a narrow strip of leather, wider is better.

Just a thought but you might be able to use rope or round foam weather stripping to get the shape you need, just clip it in place until it dries to the shape.

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Recreational-Gear/Armchaps_2/Arm-Chaps-Orange-or-Tan-Colors These have been around for a few years now. Kevin

I use a fence against the top of the letters and leave the last letter in place when stamping the next.

That pineapple looks like a nasty bit of braid for someone who has no experience with braiding. I think I might now be considering something like this . A braid may be a problem due to part of the knife handle entering the leather knife case. Thanks for the help. Kevin.

Thanks for the ideas, what braid would this be? This is what I had in mind.

Thanks for the ideas, I like what you've done Edvin but the round end on the handle creates a problem on this project. I'll check my braiding book Mike for the two you mentioned, that would serve the purpose and look good too. Kevin.

I like the adjustable fence idea, that should work well.

Anyone have any ideas for covering this knife handle completely in leather? I could wrap it but I see the round end of the handle being a problem. Maybe some kind of braid?

If you search Amazon.com for "tape measure holder" you'll see some ideas. You might have to get his tape measure for the right fit as they are different. Kevin.

Beautiful work!

I have also punched from both sides but don't go all the way through, eyeball the top hole and mark then punch the bottom hole directly below it then you can wiggle the needle or awl around to find the other side if they don't line up perfectly. Takes a little longer but it works. Kevin

I don't usually gouge the back side for that reason.

A 12 inch planer blade might work as well, next time I change one I'll try it. It could be mounted on wood with a rabbet cut out below for the exact width of the blank and desired thickness. Several different rabbets for different thickness over the length of the 12 inch blade. Kevin.

Well done, very professional! Kevin.

I agree, I wouldn't trust it without a rivet.

Nice presentation! Thanks for taking the time and making the effort. Kevin.

Thanks for the tip!

No, more like these... http://www.google.com/search?q=leather+ball+caps&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#q=leather+ball+caps&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=R62&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&ei=omAKTvmhEsys0AG1ttl3&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CFIQzAMwAA&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=817ae23571d8da66&biw=800&bih=440