Andrew Chee

Check Zack White: http://www.zackwhite.com/Nails-Tacks_c_136.html They have both iron and brass clinch and soling nails. The difference is the soling nails have a larger head. I use the clinch nails when nailing the sole together from the bottom up. I use the soling nails to hold down straps that may need to be removed and adjusted in the future. Andrew

I've made a few of these. For the soles, get sole bend leather. Basically the stuff they use for shoe soles. Thick, stiff, veg tan leather. After you draw out the pattern, thoroughly wet the leather and mold to the shape you want and let dry. It will hold the shape. The top leather is pretty much anything you want to use. Veg tan leather is good because it will be firm enough. I've found that about 6-7oz is a good weight for the top layer and straps but that's up to you. The nails are brass or iron show tacks. I bought mine from Zack White leather a long time ago. Don't know if they still sell them. As for tools, you don't need three different knives, a good clicking knife will be fine. You want something that can cut that thick sole leather. There's really no skiving to do so a skiving knife is not necessary. I would suggest getting a cobbler stand because it will help you in positioning the sandal when nailing it. Good luck, Andrew

How would you say this leather compares to Horween shell? Andrew

FYI, there's a lucris in ebay right now. Andrew

Nice looking tool. If it has enough pressure I would say that it's a good price. $340 for something like that isn't bad. Setting up a shop press will cost almost as much and won't be as easy to use. The small size isn't that much of a problem because you can use several passes to cut a larger die. As long as it will fit between the two posts you should be able to cut it. Theo Ly question is how much for pce that thing applies. Andrew

To some extent you will still see some glue line. With hidepounder's example you don't see much of a line cause he uses a very dark dye on the edge. I don't think seeing a small line is a problem. You can also try using white glue. Leathercraft cement. I've recently come up with a slightly different burnishing method that I think gets good results: -Glue and assemble pieces -Use a belt sander with 80grit paper to even the edges and remove excess glue -Edge corners with appropriate size edger -Use Sheridan leather's quick slick on the edges -Burnish with a rub stick or mechanically with a wooden wheel. This will get the edges decently smooth -Hand sand edges with 400grit paper. This will give you the perfectly smooth edges -Dye edges. I use angelus dye eons filled with whatever colored dye I want to use -For the last step I either impregnate the edges with paraffin wax or apply Tandy edge finish with a q tip. For paraffin wax I use a motorized felt wheel with a groove cut in it. I turn on the motor and apply the wax onto the felt so it rubs in. Then I run the leather on the felt. The friction melts the wax into the edge. So far I've found that the wax method gives the smoothest edge but I'm experimenting with the edge finish cause I'm looking for something with acrylic in it to hopefully get a longer lasting edge. Hope this helps. Andrew

The setter works with all of these presses. It's the inserts that go into the presses and they can be really expensive. Andrew

I've seen some use a drag knife on a cnc router to cut shapes in leather and it seemed to work nicely with no scorching. You can try that. Andrew

With great difficulty. I tried using the Prym snaps and they just don't set easily. I tried the setting tools they sell for them and they don't really work. I ended up buying SW snaps from universal fasteners (now owned by YKK) and they work much better. You have to have a resellers license to purchase from them. The snaps themselves are not expensive but the setters are. I am about to place an order from them if you want to purchase anything. PM me. Andrew

Nice. Is the process for finishing edges on alligator different than cowhide? Andrew

A pfaff 335 would be the best of the bunch for this. A flat bed can sew this but you would have to sew it with the needle going in from the inside gusset out and since the bottom will never look as good as the top, it won't look as good as if you sewed it from the outside in. Hence the cylinder bed. I don't know exactly what leather you are using but if it's very soft then what I mentioned may be less of an issue. The leather in the picture doesn't look terribly firm so feet marks may not be a problem if you use smooth presser feet. Andrew

The answer is "not well". You may be able to use a mallet on a small die but even then, you'll have all sorts of problems with the die bouncing. The harbor freight presses don't really have enough pressure and only acts on a small area. Your cheapest solution is to go with the shop press thing that some people on this site uses. Andrew

Have any of you been able to sign up on the tannery row website? I try to sign up for a login but I never get a confirmation email. Andrew

Look up Mulholland Brothers leather in Berkeley, CA. Ask for a person named Guy. He's one of the owners. A few months ago he had a bunch of those for sale but I doubt he sold them. They looked to be in good condition and were priced to sell. Andrew

What kind of leather are you looking for? If you're looking for something like their ChromeExcel then there's no on else in the US that does pull-up leather in that many varieties. They are a bit unique in their offerings as far as American tanners are concerned. But it all depends on what you're looking for... Andrew

Milled veg tan is hard to burnish. It doesn't edge well because it's soft. It doesn't burnish well either because it's soft. For softer leathers, you can paint the edges. If you don't like that look then you can skive and turn them. But then you would probably need a liner cause the backside doesn't look so good. You could bind it with another piece of leather but that's a different look altogether. If you're making an unlined, soft, milled leather bag then the look is kinda rustic already so it may be just fine to leave the edges raw. Andrew

Hey corter, do you treat the credit card slot opening edges in any way? Andrew

Not unless the thread changed twist direction in the middle of the spool. Could it be possible that the hook twists the thread the wrong way while making the loop? Andrew

So I tried the instructions above and set the timing on my machine. It now sews fine. The stitches look good. I still have an issue where the top thread looks like it's unraveling when I look at it after running a line of stitches. I also notice more thread fluff on the presser feet after a long line of stitches suggesting the top thread is rubbing somewhere? Any ideas? Thanks Andrew

I don't live on a farm. I was at the petting zoo with my son and there was a goat just standing there with its head against the wall. Just thought it was funny and said something about life. Andrew

Awesome. I had adjusted the needle bar to 15mm above the bed at bdc but didn't understand the 1.8mm rise after bdc at stitch length 3. I think I got it now. Thanks. Andrew

Does 1.8mm sound about right to you? Andrew

Interesting. I actually start with 80 to level, then 120 then 240. Only about one pass of each. This is on the belt sander. I slick the edge and then touch up with 400 before dyeing and waxing. It's the initial passes with the belt sander where I get the mushrooming. Maybe I just need to apply a lot less pressure... Andrew

Hello all. I am making the wallets below. I take veg tan leathers and hand board them to bring out the grain and soften them up. Usually when making wallets or bags I would assemble the pieces, glue, sew, etc... To even the edges out I would cut the edge after sewing. But because these wallets are curved, I can't really do that. I end up sanding them to even and smooth out the edges before burnishing. One thing I notice though is that because the leather has been softened, it tends to mushroom when I sand it with my belt sander, especially at the corners. I end up having to do some cutting afterwards. Do you guys have any suggestions for evening out edges after sewing curved edges on softer leather? Thanks. Andrew

If you want even stronger, you can try brass rivets. Those really won't break. Pain to cut the stems though. Andrew