Andrew Chee

How much difference in thickness is there? I think it is an issue with blade based splitters that if you go through firmer or softer areas of the hide that there will be some variance in thickness. Unfortunately that has to do with the basic fact of blade splitters. But then again, it also depends on how much difference you're seeing. If more than +- 1/2oz or so there might be a problem. Andrew

Thanks for the part number. I tried to look it up in the Pfaff parts book but for some reason the part number for that particular item was blanked out... Andrew

Of all the things to break on my Pfaff 335. The thread guide on the needle bar... Andrew

Sold! Andrew

Does the leather always pull sides on one side? It could be that your lower roller is slightly higher on one side then the other. If that happens, more rolling pressure is placed on the leather on one side than the other causing it to turn. One way to check this is to get a feeler gauge and place it between the blade and the bottom roller. I'm not sure what the gap is set at but you can probably find the right thickness to test with. The feeler gauge should not feel looser on one end of the roller than the other. There should be uniform resistance throughout the entire length of the blade to bottom roller contact. Also, check the top roller to blade distance. It needs to be parallel as well. This should have been adjusted before Steve/Dave sent you the splitter but sometimes things happen... I just got an LMC splitter as well. I didn't have this problem with my splitter but I did have that problem with my old American 6 inch splitter until I learned how to adjust it. Andrew

I've seen that pic before definitely an impressive edge. I'm not sure bob park's method can achieve that look because his method uses saddle soap and friction heat that might darken the edges. The edge above does not look like the leather has darkened too much. I've wondered how this one was done and have no idea. Andrew

That is pretty cool. Where are the pictures from? Andrew

Are the pieces from corter hand cut and punched or are they clicked from a die? If from a die then that's your answer. Of hand cut then he's just really good at cutting straight. Btw, from what I understand, pricking irons are meant to mark the stitch locations. The awl actuall does the punching through. At least traditionally that's how I've seen it done. Andrew

All of those machines are compound/triple feed. They all have smooth feet and feed dogs either available or easily modified. The different feet can be purchased relatively inexpensively. The 335 is a very nice machine because it is a cylinder arm and has a synchronized binder. The Consew 206 machines are less expensive but are flat bed and don't have a synchronized binder. Neither are mark proof though. It's really an issue of the type of leather you use and the pressure setting on the machine. When I sew very firm veg tan leather, it will still leave tracks. When I say tracks I mean you can see that it was sewn by a machine but there are no teeth marks. You may be able to rub the tracks out afterwards but it will leave a little bit of a track. Andrew

Part of the question is what aesthetic do you like? I personally prefer solid brass because there's no plating or coating to wear off. Solid brass nowadays usually has a clear coating put on the, so they don't oxidize as easily. This coating will probably wear out after years of use and there will be some patina on the brass. Plated brass means just that. Solid brass inside, chrome or nickel plating on the outside. Plating is usually pretty solid and should not wear off but who knows what might happen after years of use. The difference between nickel and chrome is probably more of an aesthetic choice. Stainless steel is probably the strongest of all the materials. I'm not sure if stainless can be plated so you might be limited to the color choice. Steel is just that, steel but not stainless. Usually it will be plated for aesthetics and rust resistance. Steel by itself will rust over time. Chrome or nickel plating will help prevent that and will look good. Steel is very strong as well. Zinc, cast zinc, and plated zinc is usually the cheaper stuff. Zinc is an inexpensive material. Not as strong as the other two above. When plated you may not be able to tell the difference unless you held them and felt the weight. This is usually what the cheap hardware is made of. Thighs that just say "plated" usually mean nickel of chrome plating over zinc. I've heard of plated plastic but I would assume no one uses those for leatherwork. Andrew

Depending on the machine and what parts are available for them, smooth feed dogs and presser feet may be available. It just depends on what people sell. If not, you can always take an existing feed dog or foot and grind down the teeth to smooth or almost smooth. That's what a lot of the dealers around here would do if a smooth version of a part is not made. Depending on the machine, these parts can be very cheap (like for singer 111) class type machines so it won't cost you too much to do this. Andrew

Compound feed and triple feed basically mean the same thing. There are compound feed machines designed more for fabric and ones more for leather. The basic difference is that the ones for fabric will have teeth in the feed dogs and feet and the ones for leather will have smooth ones. Teeth help the feet grab fabric better where leaving marks is not a concern. A compound feed with smooth feed and feed dog is what you're looking for. Bear in kind though that these machines may still mark some because they are putting pressure on the leather (pressing against it) but the marking would be much much less and it may be possible to adjust the presser feet pressure to minimize marking. Andrew

Hello all, updating my post to move all the information from Craigslist to here: Price is $250. I have a Weaver Leather hydraulic clicking press for clicking out leather pieces using clicker dies. The press was purchased new from Weaver leather and has been used sparingly. Comes set up with the clicking plates and cutting pad. I replaced the manual hydraulic press with one that will run on compressed air as well. The setup is in like-new condition. Please text me if you are interested. The price is firm. Thank you Andrew

Updating my post and moving all the information here instead of linking to Craigslist (since the links expire every once in a while): Up for sale is a Cobra leather machines H10 top and bottom field leather skiver. The skiver is in good condition. I purchased this used from another person. I have fixed it up with a new bell knife, bottom roller, and sharpening stone. I already have another skiver and I find that I don't really have a need for a heavy duty skiver afterall so I am selling this one. It comes with all the accessories listed in the pictures. It has a servo motor attached. I am selling this at a bit of a loss because there is some minor damage on the machine. The back cover for the rear gears and one of the rear gears was damaged during transport. This does not affect the function of the skiver but it is still slightly damaged nonetheless. The machine comes as is. It is ideally suited for skiving heavy leathers. I realize that I don't usually use anything over about 7-8oz so this machine is necessary for me. Attached are pictures of the machine doing edge skives of 5oz leather down to about 1oz. If you are interested in the machine and have heavier leathers to try out, please bring it with you. I will give you an overview on how to use the machine and adjust it. Text me if you are interested. Price is firm.

Hello all. I have an American hand crank leather splitter for sale. I just recently bought a wider Cobra splitter so I don't have any need for this one anymore. It is in excellent working condition. I stripped it down and cleaned it up when I first purchased it and it is now adjusted and splitting well. The splitter comes with the original blade as well as a brand new one. Both have been professionally sharpened. I live in the SF Bay area and would prefer to sell locally to avoid the hassle of shipping something this big but I will entertain shipping if this doesn't sell locally. Please PM me if you have any questions. Thanks, Andrew

Hi Dwight, what grit do you use for your final sanding of edges? I've found that the sander works great for leveling the edges. If I have no curves in the piece I still prefer to cut the straight lines because you do get a cleaner edge. But with curves and corners you can't beat a sander to level the layers. Andrew

Just a clarification on the stirrup plate. I have used mine on an Artisan Toro 3000 and I have found that the plate needs to be used with a right toe foot instead of a left because there is not enough material on the left of the plate for the foot to press down on. Also, I found that with the stirrup plate on, my sewing thickness goes down to about 1/4". At least that's what I've observed on my machine. Andrew

You can get something like that made probably in the $40-50 range. Not sure if that would be considered expensive or cheap to you... Andrew

Also, the hidehouse in Napa, CA has a veg tan kip skin. It's calf skin so it's in the 2-3oz range and the look and feel of it is like your typical veg tan skins. Not sure if that's thin enough for your needs. Andrew

Is his website still valid? How do I find out what he carries? Andrew

Elect ration, are you Siegel of California? I'm confused cause I thought they went out of business? If not, are they still distributing? Andrew

It's been a while since you originally posted this. Just wanted to find out how the splitter is working for you. I heard that these older bottom feed only splitters are not that good at handling harder veg tan leathers but is good for thinner softer stuff. How is yours working? These bottom feed only splitters tend to be cheaper than top and bottom feed ones so I might be interested in finding one if they can handle the work. Also, if you don't mind me asking, around how much did you end up paying for it? Andrew

The tabs themselves are 5-1/2oz. I split the rest of the wallet down to to maintain a slimmer wallet. That's why the main outer piece is sewn together. My splitter can't do more than about 5-14/" or so... Need to get a wider splitter... Andrew

Hello all. Here is a mid-length wallet that I just finished. Ten card slots. Leash loop. Sam Browne stud. Entire wallet is made with 2-3oz W&C skirting. Any comments appreciated. Andrew

Wow. Those are amazing. Do you sell them? Do you have a website? Andrew