Andrew Chee

Got pictures? If it's set up like your typical skiver then you should be able to just tilt the head back like an industrial sewing machine without removing the belt first. But then again, I don't know how yours is set up. Andrew

I already have a few triple feed machines. I'm specifically looking for a roller foot. If I take out the needle feed requirement, what options are out there? I generally wouldn't go thicker than 1/4". I stated 3/8" as an absolute max but really not required. 138 top and bottom is a must and a reverse is a must. Andrew

Can you buy direct from tanneries in the UK? In the US I would suggest some place like wickett and Craig where you can buy a single hide, have them split it down to any thickness you want and refinish the flesh side for you. Anyone off that service in the UK? Something else that comes to mind is finished calf skin but the only place I've seen that around here is from a French tannery. Andrew

Hello all. What would you suggest if I wanted a flatbed machine like this: Max thread: 138 top and bottom Max thickness: 1/4"-3/8" Roller foot Needle Feed Large bobbin (preferably) Oscillating hook (preferably) Reverse I just got a 31-15 that I just set up. Sews really nicely but I realize I need reverse for backtacking on top stitches. I may be able to stuff 138 thread top and bottom on the machine but I haven't tried it. Anyways, any suggestions would be welcome. Andrew

First of many to come... You can never have just one machine... Andrew

I think any vegetable tanned leather would generally fit your bill. The link you sent to Etsy all looked like chrome tan leathers which will not be as firm. Not really sure what look you're after though so hard to say. Andrew

I have a Toro 3000 and have been happy with it. They seem to be inline with the other Chinese clones that other dealers sell. Andrew

From what I hear, laser cutters tend to blacken the edges if the leather (since it is burning). If you're working with black, it might not be a problem. You could send some of your stuff out to be laser cut by some company just to see the results and then you'd know what to expect before spending money on it. Andrew

You can also get the dies made and have a company click them out for you. Weaver does that. Andrew

Thanks for the info. Do you know anything about the thread system? I see numbers like 60-50, 50-40, 40-30, and 30-20 and I have no idea what they mean or how they convert to the sizes that we usually use. Andrew

Does anyone know anything about this machine? I see some for sale pretty cheap. I'm looking for a needle feed machine with reverse that I can set up with a roller foot for leather. I want to be able to sew a max 138 thread top and bottom through light/medium leather (maybe 15oz total max). Can this machine do this? I looked up the manual for the machine but I don't understand the thread sizes suggested. They say a 130 needle (size 21) can sew a "40-30" size thread. What is that? Anyways, any help would be appreciated. Andrew

I'm interested to hear people's experiences. Especially if you have some pictures of things you've made with it or just pictures of the leather. Please share. Thanks. Andrew

That's actually a bit of a complicated question. Depends on the type of bag you're making? Are you making a turned bag (sew inside out and then turn it right side up)? If so, you can do a drop in liner (depending on how you design the open of the bag) or you can do a bound edge liner. If you're doing a bag where the stitching is visible on the outside then doing a fabric lining is more difficult. What is the design of the bag you're making? Andrew

Sorry to break this to you but there is no such thing as "fully equipped". There is always another tool to get... Andrew

As for dyeing, angelus makes these felt pens that are good. They open on one end and you pour some dye into them so you can use whatever color you want. They basically work like a felt up market but with dye instead of ink. Makes it really easy to due edges without running. Andrew

You don't have to stitch them. You can use contact cement and that will hold. It's not an area that takes a lot if stress. Bear in mind that if you want to do a good job you are going to have to skive the edge down to about half thickness. So if you're gonna do a 1/4" fold you will have to skive a 1/2" area. Then when you fold there won't be a bump. Andrew

Hello all. Does anyone know if there is a distributor for Nippy Japan in the US. For those not familiar, they make leather working machinery and they have some machines that are very interesting to me. Their website is www.nippy.jp. If anyone knows who might carry their stuff here, please let me know. Thanks. Andrew

Yeah, we were at the petting zoo which my kid and I saw a goat just standing with its head against the wall. Thought it was kinda funny.... Andrew

I think anything smooth and flat can do it. You're just trying to rub out the marks. Depending on the type of leather you would get varying levels of success. I use a bone folder. Same concept. Andrew

Hehe... That's not really that easy to answer. That will depend on how thick and heavy the leather is. I would say either a Pfaff 335 or Consew 227 if max total thickness was under say 15oz. For more than that, you would want an Adler 207 or Juki 441 clone (Cobra Class 3 or 4, Cowboy 3500/4500, etc...). Now, since you mentioned stitches visible on both sides, you're getting into needle and awl machine territory and those are in a class of their own (price wise as well, and no cylinder bed exists for those). What I learned getting into this hobby is that there is no such thing as one machine that will handle everything. I currently have four and I want more... Andrew

Are there more machines than these? If so, can you list them? Andrew