Blake

Hey Guys Go back and read the original post by Justin. Keith and Dale are in agreement about the angle . I took offense on Keiths behalf at first too but carefully re- read the post before I put my foot in my mouth as I usually do. I don't think the poster from Shelly meant it the way it is being taken. ( I wish people would sign their posts) Put the guns down and back away slowly before someone gets hurt. Kind Regards Blake

Hi Charlie Hardly anyone comes to North Zulch on purpose and if they do they usually won't admit it. I sure do love the Hill Country and get over to that part of Texas whenever I can. Where are you located exactly? Blake

Hi Charlie Bruce's suggestion means PURE Neatsfoot oil and not the compound.. The compound will overly darken the leather. Blake

try Sheffield Steel in DeLand Florida. Knife making supplies. Blake

Definitely Mexican Looks to be from the late 70s Kind Regards Blake

Hello Allen I Apologize, I didn't mean for it to sound negative that way. It just sounds like you are struggling a bit and I was trying to get an idea of what the issue might be so that I could offer some help. If the blade is dragging it is usually one of those causes. I got a few nice clean sides from W&C a few months back and they were terrible to carve . The blade would start dragging within two or three cuts and a little soap would help but not enough to take away the misery and wear on the blades. W&C replaced the leather after a quick phone call so occasionally it isn't the knife at all. The offer is open anytime that you are over my way to stop in and visit. Blake

Are you pulling or pushing the knife? I know that sounds like a dumb question but normally the knife is pulled although a well known and respected Leather Artist pushed his. I'm not sure exactly where Burnet TX is but if you are close to me you are welcome to come by and get a starter lesson and at the same time we can get your blades angled and sharpened correctly. If that isn't practical maybe Bob (Hidepounder ) could possibly post a photo of the correct way to hold and posistion the knife and blade. Kind Regards Blake

YEN ? = $$$$$$ US dollars Someone that is really interested could contact a Chinese agent at the free trade zones in their state or the closest embassy and have them either compose or translate a message. That service is free.

Hello Allen This is probably not the issue but ............Are you lifting the heel of the blade slightly when cutting a curve? It sounds like you are leaving too much blade in the leather for the sharper curve if you are bunching up the leather and getting drag. I apologize if I'm off base here. Blake

Hi Luke Great picture but.......... I keep getting this image of you looking like that on a Cushman Eagle heading up Hwy 21/190 Warm Regards Blake

Hello Joanne You have some excellent Saddle Makers in Canada and some are on this forum. Why not consider shipping the saddle to one of them to at least evaluate the saddle and recommend what might be done to correct some of the issues and make it more user friendly until the day comes that you can get your dream saddle. The resources available here on the forum are pretty awesome and by putting the saddle in one of these peoples hands that can evaluate the saddle first hand and share the findings if something is encountered with a questionable fix would in my opinion be the best way for you to go at this point. It will probably also be the most economical in the long run too because it will be done and over. My 2 Pesos Blake

Hello Badger Since you are across the pond, Try Abby (Abbey) saddlery. They carry some oval punches and I Think but not sure that they are made by Dixon. I have several that I have had for years and they are much better than the Craftool. Also check for Osbourne which should be available to you too. www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk Blake

You can make your own by using Future Floor Finish which is an Acrylic and not a wax. You can make it any color by adding pigments of any color obtained at an art supply or craft store. If that isn't convenient you can also use RIT dye or something similar obtained from most Grocery stores . This makes a very durable edge coat and stays flexible . This mixture will have a long shelf life if kept in a small bottle or container that will seal tight. I use the old clear 35mm film containers for small amounts and that seems to work well. Blake

Steve mason also has a very good blog on his site that I will recommend. You can check back through some of his posts and get the link Blake

Hello Mike That is an American brand saddle from Chattanooga Tenn. Not really a high end product. They started using the in house makers names on the saddles some years back to try and add a touch of whatever to the product and give it a feel of custom work. It also was intended to boost the pride in workmanship of the employees. Some saddles were also contracted out to private makers with an area reputation and I understand that they would also include their name on certain models. The Logo on the carrier is American Saddlery. Blake

DITTO on the wool.. It breathes, it wicks, it is cooler, and it disperses pressure rather than absorbs and intensify it as gels and neoprenes do. And as Greg stated, more is not always better.

Hi Chris This isn't the best picture but maybe it will give you an idea of the pebble grain. Blake

I get good results using a "birdseye" A102/A103 style. It will give a great pebble grain effect when used properly. Trick is to strike it with the right force and not cut into the leather. I use it a lot on the outside borders of boot tops and sometimes as the back ground per customer request. I tried the commercial pebble grain tools but prefer the "birdseye". It is much smaller and you can get a half tool also which really allows you to get into tight areas. Mine is an older Hackbarth but the Craftool should work just as well and the prices are reasonable. Blake

Hello Bob I use the Fiebings as it seems to always be consistant from batch to batch. Bob Dellis and I both tried other brands several years back before his death and didn't see much difference in color other than Kelly was a little deeper brown. We also found that brand actually soured after it had been on the shelf for awhile. You will also get a different color with different tanneries leathers so consistancy there is important too. Blake

Hi Doug Thank you for the compliment. I like Fiebings Leather Sheen which is a low gloss acrylic for the boots and then the maker will add something additional for his process and that is usually a wax base. On books and other items I really like the Tan Kote but will also use NeatLac rubbed in deep with a woolskin if it is going to be used hard in the elements. Such as cell phone cases, log books etc.. I usually stay away from high gloss because in my humble opinion it takes away from the leather grain and gives an artificial look and as it wears off it leaves the leather uneven in color. The leather sheen will still allow conditioners and still looks natural when polished with shoe wax. I use Tan Kote on my saddles. Blake

Hi Steve Thank You but....... They aren't my boots nor am I the maker. I only do the requested tooling for different Boot Makers usually using their patterns or designs depending on what their customer requests. The 3 tone effect is pretty simple, I dye the background put resist (NeatLac) on the flowers or other elements that I want to leave natural and then apply a liberal coat of brown heel and sole dressing (which is water base) and wipe off the excess. let it dry 24 hrs and apply a sealer so it won't bleed or fade if it gets wet. This works extremely well on books and albums too along with a host of other items. Here is another sample that was just done but it hasn't been sealed yet . The sealer tends to even out the colors. I use different brands with about the same results but I stay away from the high gloss . Blake

So what is it that you are trying to sell? Blake

I carve a lot of 3 and 4 oz leather for boot tops, counters and vamps and I use the same swivel knife, blades and bevelers that I use on my saddles without any issues. I do use a different weight maul or stamping stick depending on the weight of the leather. The lighter the leather , the lighter the stick.. I think texture(checkered, lined etc.)from your stamps are important on the lighter leathers and will add some dimension. I think knowing your tools and materials and the limits is what is important. You just need to work with it awhile until you get a good feel for it. Blake

You can contact Buffalo Felt co. in NY and ask for a couple of samples of 100% wool felt and you can specify the thickness and density or firmness. If you don't mind spending a few dollars you can contact a wood working supply that carries tools and get the hard white felt wheels that are used for sharpening wood chisels etc. You can probably find them on Ebay too. Blake

Not sure what kind of floor that you have, mine is concrete. I have used the stall or trailer mats from Tractor Supply and I like them for the standing area where I work but don't care for them under my sewing machines. I have pine 2x4s under the left and right legs of each machine (one for two legs on either side) and this dampens the vibration and noise and also allows me to slide the machine easily if I need to for adjustments etc. Its also easier to sweep around the machine as the mats tend to grab and hold thread scraps that land on the floor. I use a shop vac for the mats. The mats have certainly saved a few dropped tools from damage over the years. Blake