Blake

Hey PapaBear Those are Bow Staplers commonley used in the shoe industry to attach little bows and other do-dads to ladies shoes. I have a set that I use for stapling belt and misc loops and I have seen them used on harness to finish a loop that has been sewn in on only one side of a strap. You should be able to find the staples at any wholesale shoe repair supply. I think I bought mine from Pilgrim some years back( A couple of boxes last forever) I believe the brand name is "APEX" Its actually a pretty handy little tool for hard to reach places where you need a staple or brad. Blake

Hi Darc Many thanks for posting the pictures. This is not the one that was stolen. It makes me feel a little more secure with the EBay network. Kind Regards Blake

Thanks Darc It is one that I made. Should be a fully tooled Wade with an inlaid seat. A client of mine had it stolen and I was told that it sold on Ebay. I was given the item number but it was not available (expired?) when I tried to view it. It has been at least a year or so and it probably isn't the one anyway but I would just like to see out of curiosity. Makers name should be "Blake Kral" Kind Regards Blake

Hi Darc Do you have your pictures organized by item number? I have the item number for a hand made saddle that sold about a year ago but I was unable to locate it when I searched Ebay. Blake

Hi Scott Thanks for the links. I had to go to E-Bay and then paste the item numbers but well worth the extra effort. I've been using the ring rigging ( Plumlee) for several years on my own saddles along with most customer saddles unless something else is requested. I haven't had any issues with soring the sides but I have been careful about placement in relation to my skirts. I just allow the bottom of the ring to overhang the skirt a bit and I also have a relief cut in the skirt behind the ring. I have heard of a few cases where problems occured but I don't really know the circumstances or how it was hung/posistioned. I like the Hunt saddle. The seat in the Strummer saddle looks a little ouchy! Blake

Looks pretty good, Have you been using one ? I'm curious to know how they compare to the BK Poly Mauls or the traditional rawhide maul? The ad says that they are quiet but I would assume that would be compared to the solid wooden mauls. Thanks for the web site. Blake

Hello Mike I don't guess that you have gotten an answer to your question yet but its pretty obvious what most of us think about the tree. Steele has a few different versions of the flex tree. It was developed for the production line where staples and lots of hands are the norm. Otherwise it is a pain in the ass for the custom maker and very undesirable especially when you get it already assembled. For Production, You can change the fork and the cantle along with the angles and distance that the bars will sit in relation to each other and the type or breed of horse you would like to fit. This is the theory so keep in mind that actual practice can vary wildly. The version that you have has The seperate glass strainer and depending how you install it it can change the rock/rocker as well as distort the symmetry of the tree. I have pulled these type trees from problem saddles and actually found the bottom of the tree to be convex because the tree was held down with extreme pressure when the strainer was stapled in thus ignoring/eliminating the rock or purpose of the rock altogether. The strainers also tend to come loose after a period of time because of the flex and even sooner when the fit isn't the best. Several Saddle Mfg. companies make there own versions of the flex tree and advertise it as an answer for proper fit but in reality it seems to be causing more problems at the horses expense. This is pretty obvious that it is a huge quality control issue. Whatever the outcome (which is usually bad) your name is on it so you will be the one to take blame or credit regardless of who supplied the tree. Steele tree co. is the largest maker of production trees in the world and they cater to the PRODUCTION companies not the custom saddle maker. Just another fact is that synthetic trees and the components are usually supplied by outside contracting to the Tree or saddle mfg. companies thus eliminating some of the tree making processes that create hazardous work enviroments because of sawdust and related chemical fumes. This appeases OSHA and keeps workman comp down a little. This all points to the cost factor and not the overall quality of the finished product. Do yourself and your clients a favor and find you a tree maker that will work with you and will also be willing to help you in selecting your trees for your clients use. This is just my $.02 worth and you can keep the change. Kind Regards Blake

Hi Elton I have used Bills trees for several years and it is a pleasure to build a saddle on one. I reccomend that you get one of his strainers to go with it. Kind Regards Blake

Hi Elton I have used Bills trees for several years and it is a pleasure to build a saddle on one. I reccomend that you get one of his strainers to go with it. Kind Regards Blake

Hi Greg I got mine back in the early 70s as surplus from a saddle company in Chattanooga Tennessee which also owned the BT Crump Company. I got it after I watched the guys in production making a slew of the Western headstalls. Most were the single ply harness leather type. It makes sense to me that it was originaly for the English market. I have seen the same in use at the Old Blue Ribbon Co. that made a lot of gaited horse equipment. I made a blade for mine that I could use to cut a "V" shaped channel down the center flesh side of a strap to ease the fabrication of rounded Reins, Throat latches on halters etc. It sure helps provide a nice slick round without stressing the top grain. Blake

Hey Guys The "Crown Splitter" is used for splitting the crown piece on a headstall. A split ear headstall! . 1970s Stuff. Blake

Hi Clay As an after thought, I looked at some of my patterns .So just as suggestions, You might try a variety of sizes, One large and two small circles or two large with a small containing a bud or opening version. Maybe a large in the middle with a small at the top toward the rear and a small at the bottom towards the front. That will work if you make the center perpetual and give it a diagonal appearence. Sometimes I get hung up on making something too symetrical when it just won't happen. If it gets a little tight within the confines of the tooling area then let it slip under or over the border and show a little on the outside. Kind Regards Blake Blake

Hello Clay Its one of those things that the harder you try the worse it gets and then you try harder and..............!!!!! I had a little idea given to me in conversation some years back and have used it with pretty good success. Its not guarenteed but it does help break the block and aid with the visual aspects. I have cut several circles ( from heavy brown paper) of different diameters (several of each size) that will correspond to my pattern area that I am working on. Placing these on the actual surface in different formations might help you get over the speed bump. The brown paper works best for me as it is a less contrasting color and does not distract my thought patterns as easily as white or colored poster board. I use tap offs rather than draw a seperate pattern and once I establish my direction I will draw the pattern directly on the leather. If its a common size then I will make a tap off for the complete pattern so I don't have to think again. This really helps when doing Day Planners, Albums, Etc. I hope this helps in some way. In the words of some obscure past president " I feel your pain." Kind Regards Blake

Hello Cyrus I use Tap Offs on just about everything that I carve. I use single flowers and leaves etc. for laying out saddle patterns that will change from saddle style to saddle style. I also use singles on one off books , albums and boot tops. I have complete pattern tap offs that I use when I want to repeat something on a regular basis including all of the above along with belts etc. Blake

Hi Steve I've always used "A" or sometimes "B" depending on the skirt size. I was taught that the main thing was to keep them in the same direction or orientation. I have seen saddles that have spit out a Navajo a time or two. Blake

Did everyone catch this weeks program of "All Around Performance Horse" on "RFD TV ? Our own member "Don Gonzoles" was interviewed in his Custom Saddle Shop in Bryan Texas and did a great job. ATTABOY DON ! Blake

My vote will have to be for Leona General Store in Leona Texas. Its only open three evenings a week . They serve only one cut (ribeye) and you get two choices, How Big and How Done! They have their own rub and they are seared and cooked over an open grill. There is no choice on the sides but who cares? Blake

Old Cowboy Saddles & Spurs :A.B. Duke, Chinook, Mt. ca 1890-early 1900s. Maybe an inquiry to Sebie Hutchins would bring a bit more information as you already have the above information but she may be able to give you her source. Blake

Hi Steve I have always measured off the pads of the bars same as Bruce. Since the bars fit the horse and the rigging holds them in place I can't see how the fork would really have any bearing other than it just might or might not line up with the pads. I kind of subscribe to the theory that the rigging and bars belong to the horse and the fork and cantle belong to the rider. I also use the 1.5" measurment as I was taught that it is based on a 3" ring thus moving one half ring back gives you the next position etc. I have a saddle in my shop at this time( Lord knows who made the tree) and the fork is so far off from being centered with the pad that if you did use the fork to set the rigging it would be forward of the actual full position by at least 1". That can lead to a number of stability problems and undesired pressure points. Blake

(Moved here by Johanna from the Cantle thread) As for Joel's talk at the TCA he said he felt a saddle should bridge a little so a horse can round up under neath it. This is not a desireable trait in a usin rig but I believe that if a person were building an areana only type rig you might reconsider, in reining, cutting etc. a horse is constantly underneath himself and his back rounded up quite frequently, The "slight" brigeing effect at this time might work to your benifet. Greg Greg, You make an excellent point here concerning bridging. The slight bridging does add some stability to the arena type saddle when a horse is working with a rounded back as long as it is not an end to end type of bridging.This is especially true when cutting. It is important that there is still flare and relief at the bar ends. If done properly you can still achieve plenty of bearing surface without creating excessive pressure points and this can work well for its intended short term use.Too much bridging can actually encourage a horse to drop his back or refuse to round it when there is too much pressure at the tips (rear) of the bars and of course this leads to other issues. I totally agree with you on the long term daily using rig. Respectfully Blake Hi Everyone I apologize for hijacking the thread and taking it away from cantles. Blake

Hi Ashley Sounds like a great idea. You post your list and everyone else can add to it with their personal favorites. I wonder how many will say "Six Pack" Seriously, a realistic list will be very helpful and probably save people some money in their initial set up. Blake

Well That saddle certainly earns bragging rights. Tell us all about it, leather, finish, time, tree, etc. Is it a keeper or do you have to give it up to a client? Respectfully Blake

[quote name='Go2Tex' date='Jul 17 2007, 03:02 I would build the fender to fit her but put a long enough leather on it to fit him. Once he gets tired of people laughing at him with that saddle with the little fenders, he'll order his own saddle and they can cut the extra leathers off her saddle so they aren't flappin' in the breeze down there. Oh yeah, and don't put your name on it. Why not just build two sets of leathers and fenders and show them how to change them out. Since they both can't ride the saddle at the same time this should work until they get tired of the chore and order another saddle. I have done this several times over the years with no complaints. My $.02 worth and keep the change. Blake

Hi Bruce I have been using the Blevins clone from K&S for several years. I like the SS but will admit that they are a bit heavy.I'm on my third set of leathers on one saddle and still using the original buckles but I have replaced the sleeves I like the superior buckle too and I still have a couple of pair with just two posts. I only use them when requested. I really don't care much for the Veach buckles. They seem a little hard on the stirrup leathers to me but if the post were a little heavier I could be persuaded to change my mind. I used the Brass Blevins for a short time and was pretty happy with them until the SS came along. I will also admit that My favorite saddle has the leathers laced so that it is too big of a pain to change so nobody wants to use it. Blake