jk215

Thanks a lot guys!

Hello all! Wanted to throw my hat in the ring offering custom laser cut acrylic templates from my company Makesupply. All my templates (custom or stocked) are cut from durable 3/32" cast acrylic. Quotes are quickest for completed vector files but I am flexible. Can work with drawings or pictures and measurements of your paper templates. The majority of orders will ship within 2 days of payment. Here is a link with more information on the process and pricing: http://shop.makesupply-leather.com/pages/custom-acrylic-leather-templates Thanks! Justin

Pretty sure American Tanning & Leather is your best bet.

Looks great!

If you cant install a swing arm guide you can try these edge guide feet. I use this one (1/8") on my consew 206rb-5 and it works well.

I use http://www.buckleguy.com/ for most of my hardware. Good service and quick shipping.

Hello all. The machine is a consew 206rb-5. I am running #92 thread / 18 needle. Everything has been fine up until today and I cant figure out why this is happening. I thread the machine as I normally do and started to notice that after I pull the thread up from the thread controller and past the wire spring it doesnt sit evenly on top of that little nipple. It is kind of laying off to the side unless I physically move it back. When sewing it will sometimes run fine but then randomly the thread will bounce out of the thread controller and obviously mess up whatever I am sewing. Any ideas on what to check? I cleaned up some build up in the thread controller top area and re-threaded like 10 times. Of course this is happening during Christmas rush .

Would be open to it granted there was a good amount of info on the colors, tannage, weights, etc. You pretty much only see belts and boots made from SB Foot stuff so its hard to visualize. I know a great deal of us make smaller items (wallets, card holders, etc) in lighter weights and there is always room for more options at the 3-4oz level. So many distributors neglect the lighter weights.

Just like with veg tan there are different grades. If you are looking at springfield something like this: http://springfieldleather.com/18742/Hide%2CKampelli%2CBrandy%2CSqFt/ looks really nice. Ive been eyeing it up myself for some wallet products. The cheaper stuff looks more "artificial" because it is usually highly processed and coated with all kinds of stuff.

Big SLC fan never had any problems. Also highly recommend!

Here is a template I made for a simple 2 pocket card wallet with cash strap on the back. If you want to check out the full post with video tutorial and list of tools used you can see that here: http://makesupply-leather.com/leathercraft-tutorials/leather-cash-strap-card-wallet-free-pdf-template-build-along-video-tutorial/ . If youve got that covered you can just directly download the template here: http://makesupply-leather.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/makesupply-cash-strap-card-wallet-template.pdf Thanks for checking it out!

I make a product (notebook case) that requires me to sew from 1 to 3 layers depending on what part of the design I am at. Usually the 2 and 3 layer sections stay pretty uniform but obviously the tension isnt right when it gets to the part where there is only 1 layer. Is it common to adjust upper thread tension while sewing to accommodate problem spots?

Thanks! I never would have looked down that hole. Ill give it a shot.

Hello all. Getting a lot of feed dog track marks on the bottom of my work and looking to remedy. I wanted to try reducing the presser foot tension but having trouble locating some instructions. Couldnt find anything in the manual or guides. Can anyone help? Thanks!

92 maybe? Looking to achieve a similar style thickness.

I make a lot of laser cut acrylic templates and wish I could throw some metal in there but its a no go. Lasers wont cut through metal. What you are looking for is waterjet cutting. The makerspace I am apart of has a waterjet but we arent allowed to use it without contracting an employee. Otherwise Id be making metal templates all day.

I hadjust started ordering from them and then their website went down so they could move locations or something. Does anyone know if they are taking orders again??

Been putting a lot more time in on the sewing machine and wondering how often you guys change your needles?

Chromexcel is a chrome and vegetable tanned hybrid specific to Horween. As a whole no its not as oily as most oil tanned leathers Ive used. Chromexcel is usually a tad firmer and allows you to burnish edges as you would on veg tan. The majority of straight chrome tanned stuff cant be burnished that way. I would pick Chromexcel over any oil tanned Ive ever used if price wasnt a factor. Horween makes really nice leathers but can get pricey. You can order small pieces from Ebay or Springfield Leather. Might not be the top grade but youll get the idea.

They are nice people but e-commerce logistics are not their strong suit. You absolutely have to call and check stock on leather before purchasing online. They dont really keep up to date with that on their website.

Oil tanned is chrome tanned but with a fancy name. Its called oil tanned because its usually heavily treated with oils/waxes which helps if its something that will get exposed to the elements. The majority of leather out there is chrome tanned and there are many different variations. On average it is usually much softer and wont patina like veg tan does. Think leather for jackets, pants, etc.. You wouldnt really want to make those things out of veg tan for a variety of reasons. Ive never tried any oil tanned from Leather Guy so I cant comment. However I have used Tandy Stoned Oil Tanned and Zach White's Crazy Horse leather. Both are on the firmer side which is nice.

Zach White has some oil tanned selection in that price range http://www.zackwhite.com/Oil-Tanned-Sides_c_282.html . If you order anything from them make sure you call first to see if its in stock. They dont keep the website very accurate.

1) If you can invest in a slightly higher grade leather it will benefit you in learning. Doesnt have to be top end, but something like Hermann Oak B grade pieces from Springfield will help. Hobby shop leather is bottom of the barrel and wont help you learn. 2) Dye your leather prior to cutting out the pattern shapes. The shrinkage is unpredictable from piece to piece and this way everything you do will be more uniform. 3) Prior to dyeing dampen the leather slightly with a clean cloth. Damp leather takes dye more evenly. After dyeing apply a light coat of oil. Dyeing really zaps the moisture content of leather and you need to replenish it.

Those are pretty loaded questions that can vary a whole lot. Do you have a picture of what you are interested in making? It would best to start from there. Bags are notorious for using up a good amount of leather so the cost really depends on what quality leather you use. You dont need a sewing machine, however, it makes it more cost effective unless you are going for a bespoke high end hand stitched style.

Had no idea Hardtke sold Shinki shell. The Hardtke website went down when they were moving locations not too long ago. I guess it never went back up. Hopefully they are still around!