mrdabeetle

Is there a way to lighten the color of vinegaroon after it has been applied? This is my second attempt at dying a hat and I'm trying to get a medium grey color. The first time, I used a dauber to apply the color and it was almost black. This time, I diluted the vinegaroon and sprayed it on with a spray bottle. The color is much lighter, but it is still too dark. If I dilute it any more, the natural color of the leather shows through. Can I bleach it?

These are based on the pattern made available by Fred Moreau. I tweaked the sizes to make them available to fit items that rennies commonly carry. The actual color is a bit more blue. 4.5 x 6.25 x 1" interior space. Experimenting with vinegaroon. I love the gray color. 6.5 x 4.5 x 1" interior space. I don't like the way it came out. It doesn't have the feel of sturdyness that I would like although, it is very sturdy. 4.5 x 4.5 x 1" interior space. Stage microphone transmitter fits nicely inside with some extra room for other small items.

That dust is not part of the tanning process. It is known as "red rot". http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_rot_%28leather%29

Nice work! What are you using to cut the leather? I use a razor knife and a metal ruler or I use bend shears depending on the thickness and amount of curve needed in the cut. The stitches are very good for your experience level. Try double cap rivets when your product has decoration on both sides. Keep up the great work!

The white ostritch looks stunning. It has a nice contrast.

Look at the idiot who stitched the pockets the wrong way and didn't notice until he was finished. The last 2 wallets have an SD card pocket. The goggles have polycarbonate sunglass lenses that snap in from the back (can be replaced with 50mm welding goggle lenses).

I'll have some updates soon. I have had some major "life" stuff happen, so I haven't been able to work on it. I've got some hat patterns and more steampunk stuff coming up.

I don't like leaving a bare edge on snakeskin. It gets torn easily when it is in an area of stress. I like to roll the edge, or just use veg tan on the edge. I don't see it being very durable in a wallet, but they look great.

You are pulling your stitches too tight. They need to be snug but not tight. The leather is puckering a bit along the stitching line. Great job though. You can make a stitching groove for the thread to rest in, this will help keep the stitches from wandering side to side.

I've got a show to do, but I will have a few bags and pouches patterns soon. I didn't include a back scabbard in the pack yet, but I will get on it soon. Also, please let me know if anyone is having any problems with the patterns. I didn't do as much reviewing as I would have liked, so there may be errors. The goggle pattern is one that I sell at festivals, so it may only need adjustment if you use a different weight leather than what is specified. Again, if any others are not able to get the download links to work, feel free to email me at one.onedesigns@gmail.com.

"methods" in the navigation menu is not capitalized like the other links. All of the text on that page is underlined. On the "Creations" page, some of the images overlap and the drop-shadow makes it look odd when they overlap. (I'm using Mozilla Firefox if that makes a difference) Other than that, the site looks great. I like the theme, it is rustic without looking dirty or cliche.

Feel free to show off what you do with these patterns. This is a community, all competition here is friendly and criticism that is given is always intended to help you improve no matter what skill level you have. I have been working with leather most of my life, but I have still learned a great deal from just browsing these forums.

Here is what I have so far. Instructions (limited, but they should help) are included in the patterns in some cases. I will have more as time passes, so check back periodically. Some of the patterns for the armor are old plate armor patterns found online that I have modified (some to great extent) to work better in leather, so I would like to credit the author(s) of those. There will be updates to facilitate this. Use this link Links below are dead. Armor Notes http://www.fileden.c...ction Notes.pdf Torso armor http://www.fileden.c...tbackplates.pdf Full Arms http://www.fileden.c...eather-Arms.pdf Full Legs http://www.fileden.c...451692/legs.pdf Sabatons (foot armor) http://www.fileden.c...692/sabaton.pdf Spangenhelm (can be used as a helmet base for a variety of helmet styles) http://www.fileden.c...spangenhelm.pdf Spaulders (shoulder armor) http://www.fileden.c.../Spaulders1.pdf http://www.fileden.c.../Spaulders2.pdf Mantle (collar/shoulder armor) (can be used to create a gorget) http://www.fileden.c...ntlepattern.gif Dagger frog http://www.fileden.c...kdaggerfrog.pdf Bracelet pattern http://www.fileden.c...eletpattern.pdf Frog http://www.fileden.c...451692/frog.pdf Axe/Hammer frog http://www.fileden.c...51692/frog2.pdf Mug Strap (hang a mug from your belt) http://www.fileden.c...rap pattern.pdf Ring mount sword frog http://www.fileden.c... sword frog.pdf http://www.fileden.c...sword frog2.pdf

I'm just finishing up the full suit patterns. I'll have them up tomorrow possibly. The hardest part is determining if a beginner will understand what to do. I'm still unsure, so I'll answer any questions that members may have about the patterns. There are some parts where forming is optional. These parts will work either way, but they will look better when formed. There is very minimal forming required in these patterns. Mostly, the parts just wrap around the body and buckle. My stepson's birthday is coming up and he's outgrown his old armor, so as I use these patterns to make his armor, I will post pictures here to help get a better idea of how they all come together and how you can modify them to make them unique.

This is not a list that you need to sign up for. I will provide a download link(s) when the pattern pack is ready. I apologize for the delay, but I want the instructions in the patterns to be in terms that a beginner can understand. The patterns are finished, but the instructions are taking longer than expected to complete. I may post the patterns alone temporarily if I don't have them finished by the end of the week. Thanks for your support and patience.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/maverick-wallet-kit-44020-02.aspx http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/44019-02.aspx

Hi-lite is supposed to sit in the crevices and the rest rubbed off only leaving a faint impression of the color. It looks as though it is doing what is intended.

I have had a lot of problems with Eco-Flo dyes and stains recently. I don't think they have a very strict quality control. Sometimes the colors are vastly different between bottles. I got a bottle that was like jell-o inside. I diluted it and used it anyway because I was in a rush. I had to eat the cost of materials and start over. On the other hand, when the batch is good, I get great results. I absolutely despise the Eco-Flo Professional edge dressing. I get better looking results with a Sharpie marker.

If you stretch the strap before starting to make it into a belt or whatever, the strap is not likely to stretch much more after that.

A couple of you wanted to see more stuff, so here's a bit more of what I had out there. Moth fan Me being goofy wearing "ring goggles". Leather covered glass bottles "Deluxe" goggles

I use old t-shirts ripped into squares. When I'm doing demos, people ask about my "special cloth" all the time thinking it is some kind of trade secret. :D

try it in a different browser. I don't think chrome likes capital characters in the url

I have a pattern here for spaulders. http://1of1designs.net/Spaulders1.pdf http://1of1designs.net/Spaulders2.pdf It isn't done yet, but it should be easy to figure out based on the pattern.

You can tape up a long sock around the foot, draw where you want the seams, and cut the tape and sock off. Add a bit for the seam allowance, and you have a basic pattern.