mrdabeetle

I also use Photoshop, but Gimp is free and will work also. Most software has a free trial to download, so I don't see anything wrong with trying out what is available and see what works for you. There are some great pattern maker drafting software out there, but getting used to the interface takes so much time, that I find it easier to just draft it up in Ps or Illustrator.

Padding is not needed because the helmet has webbing that will fit your head (although, every little bit helps). It works just like a construction worker's hard hat. The shape of the helmet will deflect a blow to one side or the other and the webbing allows the armored part of the helmet to absorb the remaining impact. If you are going to make a comfortable lining for a helmet that will never see combat, you can use wool or padded linen. This is the webbing from a replica Norman helmet. This is the webbing for a WWII German helmet.

A little while back, someone asked about a "snoopy" aviator helmet pattern. I have been doing some searching and came across US Patent # 4035845, which is a proposed leather helmet design. I have worked out a decent pattern from the patent drawings. The darts in the cheek areas are for installing headphone hardware, so it can be omitted if not needed. I haven't made this yet, but I plan to do so. The pattern includes a 1/4 inch seam allowance on the seams that will be connected. I did not include a pattern for the chin strap, as I believe everyone knows how to make a buckle strap. aviator helmet 1 of 2 aviator helmet 2 of 2

Thank you for the info. I'll give it a shot.

My grandfather had something similar, except the wrist strap threaded through the front and had a wide middle to hold the watch in. This is very cool. I must go buy a pocketwatch and make one for myself. I may add a flap to protect the crystal. Good work! Those are beautiful.

Beautiful work! I like how the illustration pops out beyond the border. It gives the image a good wild action feel. I also like how you finished the wrist end of the cuffs. They look very comfortable.

I use Square as well. I have had no issues with it whatsoever. It is a great service. The software has a cool feature that lets you track your inventory, so there's less paperwork at the end of the day.

I did a few searches and came up empty. Can you see if you can track it down? I searched "homemade dye" "rit dye" and "diy rit dye". Not knowing the content of the thread/post, it's difficult to know what keywords I need to find it. Thanks to the searching, though I think I have all the info I need to become an expert at Vinegaroon.

The stitching is the only thing that I see that is not perfect, but it is still very good. It is hard to tell if the leather itself is causing the stitching to not be uniform, but practice with stitching that particular material will definitely improve the quality of your work. I give it a 9.5 out of 10 for quality. I think it is a good quality item that I would get for my dog. With so little stitching in the overall piece, It doesn't look like an issue. The brass and bright red look amazing together. A lot of what makes stitches look good is the way the holes are punched. Having a groove for stitches gives the thread a nice line to rest in. The groove doesn't have to be carved with a groover, it can be a simple impression in the leather from a stylus. Another part of good stitching is using uniform tension for each stitch. (A tough one for me) If you are physically strong, it can be difficult to keep from pulling too tight. The stitch needs to be firm but not so tight as to shrink the distance between the stitch holes. Someone speak up if I am giving bad advice. I'm just sharing what I have learned through trial and error. I'm still new to hand stitching as well.

I see this as an intellectual property issue. There is a loophole called "Fair Use". This poorly defined term is how people can make and sell unlicensed replicas. If the item is a "one off", there is usually no cause for concern. Most of the time, this falls into the realm of "Fair Use". If the item is part of your standard product line, you will get into trouble if caught.

My box of scrap is starting to overflow, so my significant other wants me to either use it or get rid of it. Most of the pieces in there are good size for bracelets and chokers, so I figure I'll make a bunch and sell them at the next fair. The thing is, I've never done a choker necklace and don't know the range of neck sizes that I will need for one. Do I make different sizes (Small, Medium, Large) or should I make one adjustable size? I have until monday to start making something out of it, or my precious scrap box will end up on the curb.

With edges, it depends on how firm the leather is. If it is soft, I will just burnish the edges. If the leather is firm, I will use the edge beveler. I also like to use the stitching groover to make decorative lines that follow the edge of the leather. If you do it after the leather has been dyed, it makes a nice looking contrast. If you do it before the leather is dyed, it makes a different effect, which can also look great. Practice on some scrap and you will find what you like. Don't be afraid to experiment. Leather is valuable, but knowledge is even more so. Good luck!

Beautiful work! What is the white "dye" that you used for this? Did you dye the whole thing black and go over it in white? I haven't found a white that works for me, but everyone seems to want black/white or blue/white stuff.

Very nice!

Individual stores have a "manager's special", so if you can get to one, you can sometimes find great deals on items they ordered by mistake or were discontinued. I recently got a big bag of rivetback conchos for $2. (plus my discount) You might check pawn shops and yard sales. I've found a few great quality tools for cheap (found a C.S. Osbourne draw gauge for a dollar). Ebay sometimes has some lots of tools. Members here sometimes sell their tools when they "retire" from leatherwork.

For a grip, I like to use a strap, then punch stitching holes on both edges. I wrap the strap around the handle making a spiral. I like to leave a small gap, so the thread will help pull the leather tight. You basically end up with a nice spiral grip. You can tool the space between the stitching if desired before you stitch it up. The thread passing under the leather will make the seam "bump" up, which makes a good grip that won't slip. I wish I had a pic of what I'm talking about. There are so many ways to cover something in leather. Take a look at some images of golf club handles, cricket bats, sword/knife hilts, etc. Some are more decorative than functional, some are more durable. It's mostly a matter of preference. What Dwight has posted is one of the easier methods, but be aware of the contours of the item that you are wrapping. Sometimes a simple rectangle will not suffice. You can make a quick and easy pattern by wrapping it in painter's tape, then marking your seam(s). Good luck!

Store flat for best results. You can also hang them flat. Keep out of direct sunlight. Keep them covered to prevent dust accumulation. Humidity does affect the leather, 45 - 50% is ideal. Don't get it wet. Don't feed after midnight....wait...what are we talking about?

Steel armor patterns relate well to leather (in many cases). Instead of dishing/raising to shape the armor piece, you will be wet forming the leather to make that piece. Here's a few places to look: The Armor Archive - Patterns for steel armor Armor Geek - A few leather armor patterns (sorry, no helmets) Gwynfor's Armor Patterns - A few steel armor patterns Arador Armor Library - A few steel armor patterns (look at the spangenhelm) I hope this helps. There are several armoring sites out there, but I figure you know how to use a search engine. Good luck with it.

Thanks for the info guys. It actually looks easier than I was thinking. I'm working on my own pattern for one. I missed the Christmas deadline, but I'll get it done by his birthday. I'll be sure to post the pattern here if everything works out.

Don't forget the pencils!

Looks like a caiman belly/legs to me. Turtle has thicker, more irregular scales.

Google "mitten gauntlet". Steel patterns often work for leather with little alteration. The Armor archive has a few gauntlet patterns. If the pattern has an area that needs to be "dished", that is where you need to stretch the leather. For the hands, you would have better results with using small articulated sections. If padding is needed, you can use a yoga mat cut to fit and smoothed with a dremel.

My son is getting a recurve bow for Christmas, so I want to make him a target quiver (hip quiver). If anyone can point me in the direction of a ready-to-use pattern or share some basic construction advice, it would be greatly appreciated. I have no idea what the dimensions should be, I have only seen pictures of them. I could probably make my own pattern if I knew more about what needs to go where, what angle the quiver should hang, etc. If you have made one, please post pictures. They would be very helpful as well.

I believe it is laser cut. If it is not, I don't see how it could possibly be affordable. (for me at least) You should ship them to me so I can take a closer look. Beautiful design! Great work as always!